sadistic

if it not butyl then it another type of rubber like your saying, but very similar to butyl. yup i have heard the stories of elemental designs and their lies too there customers. also a good reason not to support them too. second point: i have laid down a base layer of a sound deaden-er then a thick mdf layer to stop vibration i bolted it to the frame. so that is a real true point that it is not the best for spl but we still use it go figure.

i guess your right but it maybe a butyl asphalt base which boils down to higher butyl content. cause they call it a rubberised compound no telling what it is i got the e dead which they claim is butyl too. i think it butyl, i got ribon sealer from auto zone which is 100% butyl same stuff as the e dead i got so i am guessing it depends on how much butyl is in it.

fat mat is butyl rubber just like e - dead and all the others they have up dated there stuff since the sound deadener show down was written good bit of info there as for fat mat verse e dead and dynamat fat mat and e dead are basically the same products. but the e dead i had unstuck from my trunk lid it was to heavy and did not want to adhere in the Michigan sun we have here. but ya there was a noticeable in crease in db's when finished witrh the e-dead. if you think don's method will work to do a spl car go ahead and do it that way. this is why i went e dead or fat mat helps so you do not crack the roof of your car with sound pressure when the metal starts to oil can and become annealed before cracking. ya the e dead stuck to the roof of the truck but not the car maybe i should have cleaned it better?

check these out i do not think you will fit a cvx maybe a cvr because of mounting depth i own the tp210b tuned at 47 hz older model Bassworx - Industrial Revolution 2009 so i am not saying you can't just saying it will be difficult

it has side curtin air bags in the v-dub so there not much room for any thing let alone tweets right ???

Here are some speaker I have been looking at have not had a chance to hear them yet so keep that in mind. mybe you can see what you can find over there in these brands and see what they sound like. as you can see i prefer silk tweets. but you may not. Mid bass 4 inch Parts-Express.com:

good points i think they said in the pre build that the amp was close to 1,500+ rms which if it is would make about 400-500 rms at 4 ohm maybe. but any ways ohm out the speaker terminals for the box make sure the final is not 4 ohm but 1 ohm and yes if your going to run it at 1 ohm you need up grade that wiring to 1/o like i got to do. this is why thus far i have not hooked up my amp yet and really want to. if it is one ohm check the gain etc.. settings btw here are some specks. SPECIFICATIONS: •1200 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm •600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms •300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms •0.153v - 5.6v adjustable input sensitivity •RCA Line-Out Jack •15 Hz - 250 Hz Frequency Response •> 90 dB S/N Ratio •4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current) •50 Hz - 250 Hz adjustable 12dB Low-Pass Crossover •15 Hz - 50 Hz adjustable 12dB Subsonic Filter •0 or 180 degree adjustable phase switch •0 - 12 dB adjustable bass boost with 60 Hz center frequency •Wired Remote Control unit included •5x 30 Amp Internal Fuses •17" L x 10.6" W x 2.2" H •MSRP $499 USD The SAE model Class-D amplifiers are only suitable for operation up to 15.0 volts -- they are not stable on 16v electrical systems like the SAZ Class-D amplifiers

that sloppiness is what i am talking about. as in does not seem to hit all the same notes. now the 8 will have a different tone then a 18 if the spl is different. like a 8 with a 83 spl compared to a 18 with a 94 spl but that all depends on were it was measure at on the hertz scale you could measure the 18 at 40 hertz were the 8 was measured at 75 hertz . i think it is sloppiness and tone the guy needs more tone and less sloppiness which was cause by under powering that sub in the first place and putting it in the wrong box. what happen i think made the box to big to handle the power better and it went boomy/sloppy. he could keep that sub but i do not think it will move enough air to please him and get a bigger amp to make it sound better. but i have seen plenty of one sub systems get loud but will it work for him?

you got the same problem i had with my subs mostly now a day's there more gear towards rap! and boomy boxes. would you use two subs ? i am running two jbl power p 1022's in a gold wood box from part's express.com the sealed two ten box it like 36 bucks right now it has .85 cuft per sub and the jbl's require .75 per sub which the little extra space make them be have awesome. i am running them off a Sony temporarily till i get the third for my sae1200d v2 and build a box for it. to tell you the truth any think i have found with the low spl in the 85 - 89 at 2.83 volt has been dull one noteish kinda like rockford fostgate punch stage 3 's if you know the subs there real flat and lifeless in sound out put. personally have not heard fi's q's but am content with what i got. btw if your good at adjusting gain you could run those jbl's off the saz 1000d. any ways in that box there not boomy there punchy and tight and very responsive to rock and metal. jbl powers retail for about 100 each 2 10's or 2 12's for 149 each i think would equal what your after. i got mine on e-bay so check there if you like em or the idea.

damn tough break have you considered sealed more or less lately. most of all for the sound quality i prefer the sealed over the ported i find there is a slower response to the music like bass drums etc that a sealed helps on that a ported does not i think it called a slower transducer response. for the ported when compared to the sealed and ya rap does sound good in some boxes depending on how build. as for which i would go 12's or 10's also what about just rebuilding a sealed enclosure for that 15 reason i say that is not sure what it's in. i got to do it for my mach 5 ixl 15.2.2 i am a big fan of sealed / band pass boxes and just think the sound quality is better in them. though i do not think a band pass will fit so what about sealed? some time's you just got to forget what the other guy said that loud is best and go for sound quality because you like the music.

I'm not adding any airspace. The displacements are subtracted from the volume and for reference the displacements I am talking about are like bracing(which there is none in this instance) and sub. Your off because your calculating to much port displacement. 1. The physical port is only 21" long. So you have an extra .021ft^3 2. You are accounting for 6.25" of port wall that is not there. So then you have an extra .0352ft^3 So your 2.2795ft^3 + (.0352+.021) = 2.33ft^3 that I calculated. you know what your totaly correct i am off. just do not use the re calculator that often so i was thinking that the port length was 22 long when it fell short a few any ways good point man.

i think you forgot to take in to affect the .75 wood thickness of the port instead of a 2 inch opening like the calculator says it would be 2.75 x 13x22 which would make the box 2.27953125 cubic feet with the displacement of port .455 and sub of .16 and the box inside dimensions of 28.5x13.5 x 13 =/1728 = 2.89453125 before displacements. sorry did not calculate the port tune yet . When a port bends you can't figure the area the port takes up separately then subtract it from the box volume. For example the way the calculator I set up figures internal volume is it calulates the volume of the green area then the volume of the orange area depending on the length of the pink board. Then it adds them together and subtracts any displacements you might have. that is one of my points but not in this post you can not calculate displacement before the port is calculated. so why use displacements in the formula? as far as i see it your adding to much air space with those calculators that add in the displacements. so why not just build a box like 2.5 cu-ft and stick a port in it and forget the displacements? all you have to do to make the bass note out of the port falter is make the box bigger yet ? it would be like using displacements. if you read in to the number that is basically what there doing is calculating and then minus till it fits. which i seen a lot of calculators go way to big on boxes and not play the right note. sounds like a cone fluttering and it was because of the displacements. just like a lot of manufacture will calculate in the displacement in to the ports etc /sub displacements etc... so the box you design become one noteish no mater what. even if you were just to build the box dimensions of a 2.5 calculate the port and stick it in the box. it will play the same as if you add the displacements so you over calculate some what. because of the company calculating more then needed and you add to it. the cone mite flutter like over powering and hitting peak x mech BTW just trying to figure out why your off of mine by .07 cu-ft mine say there smaller were your says it's bigger yet. could not figure it out but will sooner or later lol's

i think you forgot to take in to affect the .75 wood thickness of the port instead of a 2 inch opening like the calculator says it would be 2.75 x 13x22 which would make the box 2.27953125 cubic feet with the displacement of port .455 and sub of .16 and the box inside dimensions of 28.5x13.5 x 13 =/1728 = 2.89453125 before displacements. sorry did not calculate the port tune yet .

x2 once you get it in the box you want it don't unscrew them. there is a trim plate that breaks loose once you unscrew it. all it is is glued down only way to fix it is drill a hole and put a screw in it. that is the mechanical noise i have herad from them.

got a question for you what or who told you to set with a dmm. reason is i know for a fact that you can set it by ear or by osiloscope never ever use a dmm. reason is it give's false readings even with paek hold set on it. see the ac as we know it that the amp out puts is realy a pulsated dc that is considedered ac. the problem with calling it dc or ac is there incorrect it has trates of the two stuff like. polarity and can form a sine wave etc... if you try to use peak hold on the dmm it is not accraute as the o-scope to get it on the verge of cliping and you can not dectet this with the dmm, this is unless it has a oscope feature on it. this is why they say you should over power with the amp and set to the distortion method so to bring the gain up slowly till distortion is heard and remove gain till no distortion is heard. sorry not trying to be a prick just try to help on bad old habbits ask around it true.

m5 did it differently then i would have but he is right. see slot port are easier to fit then 4 round so most will go slot they got the same sound quality or spl if you do it right. btw here is a formula on building boxes and why round port are so hard to fit. they also have a lot of technical under support at this link under woofer box wizard. there is a set of boxes on the bottom right of that page that contain more info on building boxes. Answer

I did not know cars had radio noise suppressors built in to the car's circuit from the factory. Would this be something a certified lincoln technition would be able to locate and repair if needed? If not, will this manual do if I buy it? LINCOLN AVIATOR 2003-2005 SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL - Download Technical yes the dealer ship should be able to locate it. if it's beyound warranty then do it your self for chaep. btw auto zone has free manual's on line that are correct and they do have the 2003 lincoln avatior at this link i used the awd with the 4.6 v-8 but they got all the diagrams.for the other model of you car too. AutoZone.com | Membership Benefits btw a lot of the new car have so much electrial wraped up in them like my 97 taurus when ever a relay goes bad. the power window's don't work the stereo the dash gagues don't work ton's of stuff because of one relay.

that would be alt wine and check hu's ground may need to run a new one

I did not know cars had radio noise suppressors built in to the car's circuit from the factory. Would this be something a certified lincoln technition would be able to locate and repair if needed? If not, will this manual do if I buy it? LINCOLN AVIATOR 2003-2005 SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL - Download Technical yes the dealer ship should be able to locate it. if it's beyound warranty then do it your self for chaep. btw auto zone has free manual's on line that are correct and they do have the 2003 lincoln avatior at this link i used the awd with the 4.6 v-8 but they got all the diagrams.for the other model of you car too. AutoZone.com | Membership Benefits

is this the 2003 Lincoln i see in your sig. funny you say all those problems are you sure there is no radio noise suppressor in a circuit in the autos wiring. i had a problem years ago with a radio noise suppressor in a Plymouth reliant k car because the capacitor went bad. how i found it i needed a wire diagram to find it but check auto zone or buy a Haynes or a Chilton's auto manual for your vehicle with the chassis electrical diagrams. and engine diagrams some time you got them on the ignition system too. this is if you do not find a bad ground.

m5 is right it a little thin what i suggest is picking up the book loud speaker design cook book. in the book they talk about alignments there is like four main sealed alignment they talk about. the possibilities for each alignment there is just so many of them because you can go small sealed to a over sized sq sealed that has fairly good out put. you got to learn to read the graphs in the book and what they represent either by trial and error or buy some one telling you what it will be. this way you can tell us what your thinking like a cb4 alignment with 2.5 cubic feet for sq loud bass or even a cb4 with 1.5 cu ft for that tighter bass. it gets even worst for port just be warned any ways hope this help i am not suggesting a box yet but trying to help get you up to speed on them. also try amazon / half .com for the book i suggested i got mine on amazon. for like 17 bucks shipped and used were on half there brand new for 80 bucks.

what about 5.25 's i know you can get adaptor plates every were for fords. here is a good set see link and those pg rsd are sold in 5.25 too. they got a little less mid bass then a 6.5 but there better then a 5x7 or 6x8 coaial. i got the one at the link in my taurus and there only 75 rms for the set. NEW CADENCE 5.25" 300w ALUMINUM CONE COMPONENT SPEAKERS - eBay (item 350257812456 end time Jan-25-10 02:01:35 PST)

ya those jbl are purely spl i was trying to hint that the mj's are better in the sq department. i would start competing or even go to event just to be measure it cheaper then buying a mic, and fun at that you get to met new people in the industry etc. to me now spl is like seeing 24 inch rims on a hummer it attracts you, you want it but it gets old quick .this is because it cost so much it's like drag racing can never spend enough money doing it. racing has been know to drive the average man in to the poor house same with audio.

don't forget the late 80's -early 90's honda crx will do the same as the rabbit it a small car with awesome possibilities. also there is a motor swap kit for the crx here at this link super exhaust etc so there are a few options for it and you. also i would go with the four 12's i think you have more surface area with the four twelves. Hasport Performance

What are your goals of spl 140 or more? I find the subs at SSA are more sq based with lower sensitivities. Those mj's are still on the lower side of it but are damn good subs that can get loud like the rest of his products at SSA. I own an ixl 15.2.2 it tends to be one noteish like a sq sub handles 1000watts at 89db's at 2.83 v / 1 meter. The subs I got from SSA this far have been sq all the way and should not be used for spl they are limited because of the sensitivity. But do not get me wrong they can and will get louder and stay cleaner than most subs in the sq market. If headed more for spl look at the jbl power p1022 or the p1222 in a t line here are the specs of the line the port area has to be SD times 1.4 to 1.5 for the port area. Length of line has to be 6 to 8 foot long. To find tuning of line take the inches of the line and divided buy 3390. That gave tuning frequency now take that answer and divide buy 13560 to get frequency length. Then divide buy 12 inches to get feet then divided by four to get how far your max from the windshield can be in feet the closer the better these are unhampered lines. Just a word of waning they will hit lows. my pop want to jump out of the center console when I hit 34 hertz in my truck I had two in a ranger x cab hitting 141.5 on the windshield , trying to fit four of them lol's with the new sae 1200d I got at 1 ohm. I hope I will top out higher yet with four subs. you can clean out the mid range bass buy tuning its port area by SD times 1.5 -2.5 so the bass get's deeper it all in the book loud speaker design cook book. If I could I would go horn just do not know the formulas for it horns have deeper bass then a line. And are way louder the only problem with lines and horns is they just don't fit in cars you basically need a astro van to hit 180. But ya the jbl power subs are like 115 each you could get four of them for the price of two mj's. Don’t get me wrong the mj are very nice speakers but there more on the sq side I think. btw that sd is from your t/s spec's and the 141.5 i hit was on a term lab mic with two ten's and about 900 rms watts could try the 12 they are louder. any ways it just a suggestion i know a lot of people always wanted mjs i do not want to shoot you down on the idea cause i know they will not be around in the future as far as i know.