sadistic

not to call you wrong i have had the rsd's i did not like them as much as my cadence z series my rsd may have been used i got them at wooferetc.com they were missing part out of the box my cadence were awesome every i know like them. on the cheap any ways the cwm6 kit share parts with morel i have heard. i bought the z series and liked them the ones with the blue nose cone on the cone. any ways here is were i got mine at see link i would go component set i go for cadence or cdt from woofersetc.com as you know i do not trust woofersetc.com. so went with cadence http://electronics.shop.ebay.com/items/Car-Speakers-Speaker-Systems_?_catref=1&_dmpt=Car_Speakers&_fln=1&_sacat=14936&_ssov=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282&Brand=Cadence

all you have to do is get a smaller belt that simple go to auto zone after figuring how small you need mite be 2.5 inches or so depending on the number of reduction pulleys you are using mite take 2-3 belts be for you get the correct one so just go with a cheap belt till you find the proper size some are like $30 were other are like $12.99

it depends on the install and the spl of the woofer you change from one woofer to another brand woofer the spl could change this is the efficiency of a sub to get loud quick or slow. btw do not trust subs base on this only look at stuff like xmax spl surface area of cone and rms wattage and the rest depends on how good you are at boxes. the reason i say it depend on the hole install is a crap sub does no good in a good box.

could try to use the stuff don from sound deadener show down.com or net or some thing like it. he sells the buytal ribbon sealer it like a 3/8x3/8 x 12 inch long bead of solid buytal use it to stop irritating rattles in panels like lights etc... on in side and out just ball it up and put it behind the panel at the rattle spot. since we all know "explorers are not the perfect listening environment" which is total bs if you know about what i talking about all you got to do is run off road tires on the road to get the same type of hum in the sound track comparing them to bmw. it is caused by the tread pattern of certain off road tires so be warned here. any ways don also sells sound deadener which he says beat out second skin and damplifier pro etc... any ways you get the pic what about a t-line ????? if looking at out put any ways just a suggestion it would be a huge box for a 18 and the explore may have the room. btw it a huge box . btw big three and batts / alts / batt - isolators are good ideas. if you plan to compete

not enough sq inches of port area you need 12-16 sq inches per cuft. it would be like 8 times 4 inch round ports then cut in to length per there design page listed here at link below i left a cut length sheet be low av for a 4 inch round port should be about 12.5 inch any ways there is a link above how to use the port formula. and tunes to about 30-35 i would tune it 30-33 https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154a5d0e109ba67/shopdata/0070_Tech/0070_Speakers/0010_Tech.BTL/product_overview.shopscript Here’s the box I build using this formula I think it works awesome cut length sheet coming soon. Box is 2.52 cuft port area 21 sq inches 18 inches long 5.25”h x 2”w x 18”L tuned to 33 hertz I still have to finish it but here is a pic of it hits every note not hesitation and with authority any ways here is that pic and formula below http://www.ecalc.com/calculator/scientific/ use this calculator at link above square root key look like a check with a x inside powers of ten key looks like a y to the power of x av =10 lv=30 vb=864 do the this part first av(1.84x10to the power of key looks like y sub x when the calculator does the y to the power of x key it will put some thing that looks like a up side down carrot hit 8 then the equal sign. Then write the answer to all of the above down Next do vb(lv+.823then hit the square root key put in av then write the answer down Take the first answer and divided buy the second one Then take and put in to the calculator .159 square root of the answer of the two this should equal 40.63716007346 hertz for the fb Just remember you can plug any thing you want into av or lv or vb that the plug part Av =a 2 inch by 10 inch wxh or area of vent Lv = length of vent Vb = volume of box just try to keep the area of the vent less then a 9 :1 just divide like a 10 by 5 inch port in to this 5/5 and how many section of ten you get and 10 /10 and how many section of 5 you get this would equal 1x10inch and one 1x5 inch the 1x5 would pass but the 10x1 would not it to big here are some other formulas pie times radius squared radius is half of a circle and this trans forms a round to a square vent real quickly square root of “a” squared + “b” squared hypotenuse of a triangle and how to find it in inches Length x width x height Divide lxwxh by 1728 to get cubic feet or even multiply to get cubic inches Here is were the formula comes from http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=165

i am not sure weather your competing or it a daily driver because there is other stuff such as alts battery isolators and even one of these see link as for batteries why go optima? you can pic up a good starting bat for under 65 bucks from places such as wallmarts and k marts. i have had bat from the two in my cars ever since i have been driving. optima is good were you do not want fumes like in the cab of a truck when you relocate the bat box. so you do not kill the optima or the wall mart brand bats use a bat isolator between it and the kinetics. see the reason optima are preferred for in cabin use is racing and the gas expelled from batteries can explode so they made the non spill able optima which still is required to be in a bat box vented. i would go for a isolator unless your class you compete in is no run of vehicle and the link be low will help plug in the idea for it. can be installed right on the bat bank. any ways just some tips http://www.cascadeaudio.com/power_converters/power_converters.htm

i think i metered 137.8 it was not on a term lab just a cheap mic i got put together from true audio.com that was two subs in a port at windshield subs are jbl powers it was in a truck cab the time in question like the other guy said redesign?????

you could try this one by the time you enter every thing you could be done with a plug and chug method btw i do not like the one on ssa it adds extra volume for the port and driver displacement. which increase total volume. this is why i use the one below with great success any ways there is a calculator and it step by step sorry had it in a word file for noobs which you more then like are not. http://www.ecalc.com/calculator/scientific/ use this calculator at link above square root key look like a check with a x inside powers of ten key looks like a y to the power of x av =10 lv=30 vb=864 do the this part first av(1.84x10to the power of key looks like y sub x when the calculator does the y to the power of x key it will put some thing that looks like a up side down carrot hit 8 then the equal sign. Then write the answer to all of the above down Next do vb(lv+.823then hit the square root key put in av then write the answer down Take the first answer and divided buy the second one Then take and put in to the calculator .159 square root of the answer of the two this should equal 40.63716007346 hertz for the fb Just remember you can plug any thing you want into av or lv or vb that the plug part Av =a 2 inch by 10 inch wxh or area of vent Lv = length of vent Vb = volume of box just try to keep the area of the vent less then a 9 :1 just divide like a 10 by 5 inch port in to this 5/5 and how many section of ten you get and 10 /10 and how many section of 5 you get this would equal 1x10inch and one 1x5 inch the 1x5 would pass but the 10x1 would not it to big here are some other formulas pie times radius squared radius is half of a circle and this trans forms a round to a square vent real quickly square root of “a” squared + “b” squared hypotenuse of a triangle and how to find it in inches Length x width x height Divide lxwxh by 1728 to get cubic feet or even multiply to get cubic inches Here is were the formula comes from http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=165

that mite be the problem i read and only had luck with boxes suggest in the plus or mins 20% of factory specs and that is a little over by about the 20% plus a .25 cuft that could be what is causing it and would not rule out that is it. that box should be about 6.9 cuft plus or minus 1.38cuft some were in there but not a quarter cube over the 20 % this will effect sound output

They're wired right, meter is saying 1.2 ohms at the amp. Can you take one out and check? Cause you just measured DC resistance. resistance should be the same in ac or dc shouldnt it? DC resistance is normally lower than impedance. I think they are wired at 2 ohms. i don't no why i was thinking dc resistance was about 2.34 ohms per coil take the number of coils and divide by 2.43 /2 = 1.17 ohms or close to 1.2 i thought it was a higher number then impedance but you are more then likely right there is only one way to tell pull one speaker and look.

They're wired right, meter is saying 1.2 ohms at the amp. that's understandable then are they wired pass threw were the rca go threw the first amp then the second then the third. this and are all the gains set the same.?? if so it may play out like so the the hu put out 5 volts or some thing like it. then it goes threw the amp to the second amp and get cut in half signal strength. i think the sun down have a internal line driver but ya not sure but ya it just a suggestion. if there set the same gain settings that means less power on two amps. any ways that and i have seen amps be within a 1/16 of a turn of gain to be set for full out put. or the subs you got are just crappy they lied on the specs. btw is there any way to check each amp use your old ssd's and dis-connect the sub and run the old ssd's off one amp just to make sure each amp is working right . if so it maybe the box or the subs. any ways just thinking of every thing it could be those sun down are great amps.

is there any way the guy wire them in series instead of parallel i think at 4 ohm that put out 600 watts and at 1 ohm it was 1200 watts for the sae 1200d is there any way to pull a speaker and look to see how it's wired ??? don't want you to do some thing your not comfortable with. plus to add it mite be the box what it tuned to?? i would tune it lower then 33 hertz some were maybe in the 25-30 range but that is personal liking. if your in series your only pushing them about 60% if that is the right number i can't remember because they don't have a listing on them. any ways if you were pushing them about 70-90 % they would reach there full potential. n-e ways that all i can think of either wiring, or box, or just bad subs.

there the same the circuit is unidirectional on pins 30and 87 so you can switch which way power is coming from and going to pins 86 and 85 are the same on the two lists listed. this is not a diode circuit or is it??? usually there is a diode around the 86 and 85 pin coil for some reason to to prevent power from flowing back wards threw the diode the way the arrow on the diode face is plus flow threw the arrow to minus in the same direction as the arrow. some time there just resistor around the coil and it unidirectional so you got to figure out which is which by the case of the relay. the diode look like a arrow with a line threw it the line connect around the coil which is a magnetic coil electromagnet coil which is just a electric switch that pulls the contacts points of the relay to gather letting power of 30 and 87 flow . very simple as you can see......

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced. one problem there your kinda wrong it's switched dc not ac man big difference. it's switched buy a triggering voltage on the amplifier chip it self. you are right if you got a full blast of dc threw the chip your speaker will do just what you said = zero hertz. Which is AC. It is alternating, just in many cycles instead of at one cycle. wrong again alternating current power etc.. flow's in two direction's in a conductor there is the positive cycle and the negative cycle if the power never drops below plus or minus 0 volts it's d.c. if it goes negative then positive then it's ac. so what fine school did you get this load of crap from any ways. So what you're saying is that an amplifier puts DC out the positive lead to the sub, then switches and puts DC current out the negative lead to the sub to get the sub to move back in? Have you ever put an Oscope to an amplifier's output terminals and played a sine wave? The wave does go both above and below the 0 reference line. that would be ac that switches directions. but dc has a different signal pattern altogether saw square waves etc etc ... if seeing the sine wave on the o scope go below the zero mark when dc sine waves are used you have the meter set wrong.

this one and i am state licensed in commercial electrical repair and industrial electronics repair http://www4.wccnet.edu/academicinfo/credit...php?code=CVIET2

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced. one problem there your kinda wrong it's switched dc not ac man big difference. it's switched buy a triggering voltage on the amplifier chip it self. you are right if you got a full blast of dc threw the chip your speaker will do just what you said = zero hertz. Which is AC. It is alternating, just in many cycles instead of at one cycle. wrong again alternating current power etc.. flow's in two direction's in a conductor there is the positive cycle and the negative cycle if the power never drops below plus or minus 0 volts it's d.c. if it goes negative then positive then it's ac. so what fine school did you get this load of crap from any ways.

one or two i think would be fine i think the hc1800 is kinetic batts? but what i do suggest is a batt isolator there $159 here http://www.motorcityreman.com/2-200.html if your running 0 gauge run it right off the front batt (starting system)split it in the middle some were and put in the isolator and run the rest to your bank of bats and just use you stock alt for now for charging the bank you will not be able to play the set up constantly. but will be able to do comps and get home from them the isolator make it so it will not pull from your main starting system it isolate from that system so only the stereo will play on it own separate system of batts. this way you can up grade the set up with a alt latter if need be. this way you do not get stuck some were in the middle of no were with a dead starting bat. btw if you do a test and tune it may not keep you charged because it like a trickle charger that you plug into a ac wall outlet so you may not win if you waste your batt reserve messing around just a tip. plus there are bigger then that isolator on other site and that one.

is it this meter ? or close to it? http://www.owon.com.cn/eng/hdsSeries.asp what they say to do is connect the probe from channel one to the positive wire with the ten "x" probe used. ignore the alligator clip. and connect it strait to the connection point of the speaker. adjust your y and x axis . so you can read the wave so it fit on the screen. i always start on the highest setting and and work my way lower if i fell it's needed. you can find your owners manual at the link under tech support. i think it was under page 88 of how to use o scope it's the first link i found under tech support.

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced. one problem there your kinda wrong it's switched dc not ac man big difference. it's switched buy a triggering voltage on the amplifier chip it self. you are right if you got a full blast of dc threw the chip your speaker will do just what you said = zero hertz. see what happens is it read the disk tape or what what ever and transfer that pulse to the rca or the radio amp it's self this is interpreted but the amp as on or a off signal that simple it flickers the chip. causing a 20hz-30,000 hertz pulse i have seen less then 20 hertz so do take that for grated either.

just think about what is said here x3

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you may need a times ten probe to get to register on the screen it's a resistance value that will multiply the voltage out put times 10 so you can see it on the screen. it should just be a shielded probe to were you just connect the one lead to the dc voltage source if there is a "y" on one lead coming off the probe connect the one positive strait to the positive of the speaker of the amp out put. or in between the speaker and the amp out put. plus and minus so it still is connected to the speaker but threw the meter. i have seen them do this in many ways so if there is a model number i may be able to read the meter manual and fill you in. the times ten probe may be some think like a ten mega ohm resistor or similar depending on which your o scope uses. any ways if you give me a model number i mite be able to help more.... all i got resistor color codes if you need me to tell you them what the resistor should be....

are you use a fluke with clip on leads if so which one? i believe so but i must look it up be for you quote me on it. you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus you maybe able to clip the positive lead on the speaker positive and leave the speaker ground on the speaker and just ground the shield to the frame. play some thing like 150 threw reg coaxial and lower then 100 threw sub amps. play sine sweeps and square waves threw system wile testing. what your looking for is the top part of the sine wave to be clipped off or flat. on the "o" scope

you do need a alt but not at the moment you can run a bat bank off the stock alt but there harder to charge. here is the set up i was talking about you would run two batts in the trunk and a alt on the engine and wire this in between them or you could just do two batts you would be better off with the bigger alt for the extra power along with the big three etc... this is for the long run maybe expensive now but you thank your self later for doing so either over time or right away. you run alternator to isolator to battery bank then from bank to amp you could throw in a ac power hook up too. this is if you compete for in the judging lane's cause some time you can run the engine. battery isolator to be wired between alt and bat bank. http://motorcityreman.com/2-240.html btw cascade audio carries the ac hook ups threw there different reps if you need me to find one i will hook you up. btw with the isolator it will not charge fast so be careful on test and tunes be fore comps also prevent a major drain from the electrical system the isolator does so you can use your stock batt up front for starting and isolate it from the batt bank this is why i suggest a isolator

i would just leave it there at -10 it's like a sub woofer level control if it sounds good there. amp should be set so it not clipping if it gain controlled any ways. your sending the sub into clipping the higher you turn it you more then likely got the amp set on a number like 5 volts for the hu output. and that as high as it will go on that type of setting. if it was set on -10 when you set everything on ur amp then its fine. but if you put it on -10 after u set ur amps settings it could cause it to start clipping. when you set ur gain and all that your suppose to have the settings on ur radio how you want them. make sure you dont change them after you set everything on ur amp. thumbs up !!!