sadistic

you could try finding two kenwood excelon x10d's wire it series parallel for 2 subs in a 2 ohm load. there rated at 600 rms but only put out about 400 rms at two ohm this is one that come to mind that is a class d and they sell for about 150 -170 on ebay.com ikesound.com and amazon.com. your just not going to find any high end for $ 300 to push 4 subs

the saz 100d i do not have much experience with it a good amp but can't tell you how much extra it's putting out because each one is different you would have to talk to some one that know more about it then me. but any ways those sub if there like other pioneers i have had and seen used are not that good but as you are saying he going to live with them the only amp i can think of right now that is one ohm stable and a tad on the cheap money wise side is the kenwood excelon x1r it will putout and feel like 800 watts rms at 1 ohm when they claim 1200 rms at 1 ohm this is at 14.4 volts. do not know if you can live with that or not i under powered them for one because there pioneer it mite work with them. check ikesound.com and amazon.com and e bay.com for the cheapest prices on those this is if the sun down is too big for them per some one Else's say.

what is the input voltage of the amp for the rca inputs? you mite have done what the guy above me said if you were over the rate voltage buy a long shot like like using a line driver is what it looks like to me.

ku40 has a good point if not pair the first sub on this list of links with any of the three amps or that sub with a saz100d. then talk to the guys at ssa and/or march five audio and try getting the sub i suggested in a svc 2 ohm configure which they said they were coming out with this year i think that 18 inch sub will be like two 12 inch subs in a box with good sound. btw the 10's and 12's dcons sound good so do not stray from that either. the best amp for that sub is the fosgate. besides the sun down saz1000d the list i put to gather is for 4 ohm svc's not two ohm svc's . if you happen to get the saz1000d get the svc 2 ohm coil in the mj 18. sub any ways here is that list i think i listed them best to good in that order of power output none of those amps from ssa are junk. i think the smallest one was the sun down which would power the mj18 at about 60 % btw not sure you will fit the mj either with the box it requires. if not try a sound splinter RLI 10 with the saz1000d .just some suggestions http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Mach5Audio-MJ%252d18M.html http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Rockford-Fosgate-T600%252d2.html http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Sundown-Audio-SAX%252d125.2.html http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Clarion-DPX2251.html

that's what i think i am worried about it is to much output for him most of all if it's a daily driver he was to thin on his description on what he wanted.

Your posts are so confusing it hurts me to read them. Don't keep posting incorrect information. so what so incorrect about it ???? if your right you can explain.

i think he was better off suggesting some thing better then crap like a sony he better off with some thing better then some thing worst. but ya your right why go with so much power most of all if your not competing it may just be one sub. why not just get a couple of d cons and hook them to a saz1000d you would have just as good sound as the other with out having to up grade to batts /alts etc.... it's most likely going in a daily driver were he will listen to it constantly and kill his hearing doing so. even some thing like d con are a tad much for my dd i got two jbl powers tuned at about 30-31 hertz with a amp from ssa a rockford t -6002 pushing them and a 200 amp alt in the car and it enough to make my ears ring but ya you two are correct on what your saying best not to suggest crap and best not to suggest some thing he does not need when he can save the money and get some thing good for his dd. any ways what about a set of ssa dcons???

34-35 hz is what you would tune a sony sub at. the higher the tune the crappier the sub except for t lines is always my rule if they have no x max go for a high tune kinda like sony has no x max so you tune in the 38-40 area helps that small x max make noise lol btw jay-cee is right on. that 30 hz or even 29 is better better then 35 hertz the firmness of the lows will show up at 29-30 but will not at 35 what you could do is make a box about 3 cubes. at lowes they sell a threw wall coupler that screws together with the wall in the middle which has a 3/4 inch gap all you got to do is is cut length of pvc 3 inch inside diameter pvc pipe and see which tune you like best i bet it's the 29-30 hz if you need a pic of the couple i can get one and take a pic.

try the cd bass meckanic sonic over load. you can pick it up on www.half.com for like 5 bucks reg $15 disc 2 will be were you want it to be to find what track your at when it loudest in the car. this cd has multi tracks of different sine sweeps at different hz ranges. this way you can read the booklet and figure it out after looking at the cd player track it's on. it's the fast way to find were your at. also do not play strait threw cd give amp a break it will heat up your amp and can wreck the amp. another point is glad you tuned low because there is more energy in the lower hz range so you music feel more powerful. here is a link explaining just that it's meant for t-lines but the same holds true for ported boxes and sealed boxes because of the hz your hitting at. http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0203cae_audio_speakers_basics/index.html

shizzzon your totally right on the interchangeable ports. every band of hertz travels so far so one that is tune at 52hz may travel x amount of feet or inches this is why i say check the distance. and like shizzzon is saying different port will help you get closer to the goals of length the hertz tone travels this is why i state look at the quarter wave and ports tunes.

is it a t line if so what is the measurement from the wind shield for the 1/4 wave ???? if there are four parts to a quarter wave port one part and the distance from the windshield to the port another part. distance from sub to windshield another part . and the back wave of the sub another part .any ways check out this link if it a T-line the measurement's maybe wrong and may just have to move the box closer to the wind shield to get a good measurement. http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0203cae_audio_speakers_basics/index.html

i know the opti's are good amps but dont know that much about lanzar there close to what they say just a hair lower i think thats were those sundown audios are fricking awesome good clean power

btw if you add a isolator do not over drawl from the storage batts to make them sizzle or exploded in other word stereo off x amount and on x amount to charge the batts properly.

dittox3

you got it ,it's drawling from the alt when it should not be a solenoid is the same as a isolator but the isolator will trickle charge the bats or keep them charged. the only way you can drawl from those batts is if the system is separated and not connect to each other sine it's still connect it's drawl off the alt too. this is were you isolate the system from each other

but before you add the isolator make sure the batts are fine by testing them.

batts are for when there is no power from the alt !!! a alt is just for charging the batts they could be at full charge and still pulling from the alt all the batteries this is the reason i suggest a battery isolators just remember do not let them discharge at a competitions test and tune part of the even before fore the event some time they trip people up that have batt isolators and you discharge the batt to much unless this is a dd with a small system then just run it strait off the alt and do not forget to fully charge batts before comps a cap will not even help because your drawling more "amps" then your system will allow. put it this way your putting the strain on the alt not having a isolator this is what i think.

r-u sure the amp is not blown??? or the power wire is grounded some were???? this will cause it but all the rest ken said is true i am just looking for the posible cause before you put another fuse in which could catch the car on fire if the wires insulator is cut threw or or the amp is blown some time the amp will connect to ground when blown why ??????

no because it 's a floating ground meaning no ground attached to chassis. and for the other two there the same just different pattern in the wire but there in parallel. which will be just fine. if you use the third i suggest connecting a bat ground to frame.

ditto

that totally bites!!! what i suggest is if it glass get it etched if you do not know how to do it they sell a glass etch acid at stain glass shops around here all you do is lay down a out line sticker acid proof of course and apply acid and wash off with in ten minutes it would be like a white permanent sticker if they paint it aging take acetone and clean the glass it will be back to normal that quick. i would not suggest pin striping the window with a graphic unless they catch the little prick.

what kind of music do you listen to??? the reason i ask is regular cd's are recorded at -5 or -10 dbs be low zero this is why some recordings seems louder then others. if you can find good audiophile grade recordings with good bass. also could try bass boy , bass mekanic , dj magic mike etc... and look for the better recordings from them the one's i suggest. they are like test tones laid over a beat kinda stupid like techno you may gain a db depending on the recording some are tune to your box complete if you can find a audiophile grade -3 db track if you can! would put you +2 dbs over a regular recording. unless your is set to clip on that minus 5 db cd's some time there is leeway. the cd' i suggested are not audio file not sure3 if i spelled it correctly but the isaca sponsors those bass mekanic cd's those they do allow some that are laid over the beat some comps you can not use test tones as you know. any ways good luck

also the sun down saz2000d is on sale for $495 by the time your done installing the d cons. you could have finished affording the saz2000d and come back when you got more cash to buy one ten inch i con and come back later and by the second i con they would be under the 2.5 cuft limit and would hit fricking sweet. i want you to think about it before you dive in and get some thing you did not want when you really want some thing bigger or smaller. any ways i went with 600 watts and it sting my ears. just a suggestion before you dive on in do you ever plan to compete? or is it going in your daily driver? if it's going in the dd i would go for the d cons as for competing go for the icons.

ya i hear you there i was afraid it would be too big. and yes 200 rms is perfect it going to be about 67%- 68% depending on how accurate those rating are i am betting it's over but no telling mite be right on the money. the two tens will have more out put but if your strapped for cash what about buying one icon now and a second later like a 10 inch i con. the icon's would have more out put because they got the power and cone area be hind them. but as you know those dcon are a great choice no matter how you slice them you did a good job picking what you did

here is another option what about the march 5 audio mj 18" driver it would be bigger then two tens and a little less out of pocket to get one. kinda noticed the same price range of the subs you picked. if you can fit a 15 inch i con or even two 12 inch i cons this would be what i would pick. but if budget is a factor try the mj's five cube box ported 175 for one 18 inch subwoofer. they have about the same x max and a bigger cone area for the mj's so your going to move more air. if you could fit two mj's for the price of two d cons that would be awesome don't get me wrong ssa has and is awesome in the sub arena any ways just a suggestion.