sadistic

do not know if it will fit under hood or not. but could try what i am saying below. what about in the bed of the truck you could get a couple battery boxes and relocate it all back there. they sell plastic tool boxes seen some one relocate to one of those before . don't know if you use the bed of the truck all the time for hauling lumber or dirt or not but it's a idea to do it there. they sell relocation kits at summit racing or you can build your own.

nice site to get alts from! those prices are pretty awesome!! i might pick one up for my 95 grand am! i think there better then power master with the warranty. i got a 170 in the truck and a 200 in the car and have had no problem with them. and they get alts for other cars that you can't find them for just ask and they will build them for you if they can get a larger case to do so.

i think shizzon is correct all you mite need is a battery go for the ones he suggested . by the way is this a daily driver if it is you will need a dual alt system which they more then likely do not make. if using it to compete don't forget to add in a battery isolator that you should be able to charge set up off the stock alt if done right with a isolator. just remember you only got a few minutes of play time at full strength with a battery before you got to charge it .so do not get roped in to testing your system before a comp. it should be set when you get there. just encase you need a alt i think these alts are better . they got life time warranty's compare to others and they come in 200, 250amps etc... see link below http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators-ford-cars---trucks-explorer.html

it is most likely your ears. but with this summer weather and humid air it some times is harder to move humid air and you lose db's because of it. not sure if you can lose that many because of humidity in the air and air temps mite be worth cheeking in to. most of all if you drive with the air on instead of the windows down... or even your system is breaking in your vehicle like the stiff flex of the body panels softened up over time etc... only way to tell is get it tested by a mic.

i seen the pdx2.150 tied to a mtx 8500 12 inch sub did not impress me but it was for sq and it was not to impress for loud but for sounding good. it just was not loud enough for me do not get this wrong the pdx1.1000 is more then likely way different it's a whole other bread. if the pdx does not work out for you there is always this . http://cgi.ebay.com/BOSTON-ACOUSTICS-GT-2300-2-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-CAR-AMP_W0QQitemZ290333325528QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item439936f8d8&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

ya i hear you on needing more air space. is the suv already striped? like seats taken out? this will account for air space. also there right on the poly fill i have noticed it acts the same way in my boxes. like takes up space.

very true this is why formulas should not be used they are inaccurate most of the time. a real reading should only be used it the most accurate way.

also forgot to mention your dealing with a huge air space. a change of .9cuft will not effect the tune very much this is why it tunes higher instead of lower. it's not a drastic change in air space causing a lower tune. although not sure how much it can change by when you go to tune it differently for each port wish i could help more on this. it kinda like the general rule of thumb not to go to much plus or minus what the manufactures spec are. i have heard 20 % plus or minus of them for building small ported / sealed boxes. this is for regular sub with very little x-max and these are boxes of 1 -1.5 cuft average. a box as big as yours with a 20 % change would be a huge amount of like 2.7 cuft it would have to be off but to screw it up. if you notice it's easy to screw up smaller boxes then big for some reason.

you got it that how it works. the further you get away from that perfect frequency you lose potential. the bass wave grow weaker in either direction if you have tried lowering the tuning frequency yet it will decrease the out put and make the sub seem like it needs more power. which will only burn up voice coils. this is why they are similar to transmission line boxes just do not have as much output as the t line. btw have you done a spl measurement ported verses infinite baffle. some subs behave better in sealed then ported or even ib compared to ported you may experience a loss of db going from ib to ported. as soon as you ported the wall it be came a ported box the rules changed. now shorter ports = higher tunes,and the inverse longer ports = lower tuned. .....

that a good point and here is another are you using rms or peak watts peak is vxa= va now to converter it to a rms value you take the va and multiply it buy .707 so if it was 14.4volts times 160 amps =2,304watts right?? now multiply this buy .707 would equal 1,628.928 rms watts assuming there 100% eff but of course they are not. it's close already to what it should be but of course it mite be like 96.9% eff but there is no telling unless unless the chip they used the transistor chip is perfect and does not use that much energy as heat it could be 96.9 % eff but you will never know. there performance aspects and how they act in that circuit is the difficult part . this is why they make big charts on this stuff. plot it etc... and there is no telling if there is step up or down transformers in the circuit with the transistor chips. which could change the power to the chip.

now i know you are thinking must have remind you here.lol

they do not meter at the windshield for port war but do for bass race. if the box is smaller in the one chamber that is not being measured. this will create more pressure in the chamber being measured. but what is need is to over come the front wave. so you can do the two at once.

exactly. you should use a interchange able port. they sell couplers at lows for 3,4,6 inch inside dia pipe then all you got to do is cut length of pipe and don't glue the pvc together and find the correct length and try to find that correct tune is all i can say

all ported box have 4 waves a,b,c,d.--- line a from of cone to wind shield is front wave line b and c are the back wave to port out of the port to wind shield is line path d just like speed of sound it travel so far at each hertz so 30 hertz travel less further then 50 hertz.. the b and c line depend on air space so you would have to box in the rear of the sub to adjust the back wave to pressurize the port. enough to hit windshield hard enough. so using a infinite baffle with to much air space will effect port tuning. any ways hope you get the point i think wall are ib right ???

i under stand the comp part would it be a higher tune or a lower to to hit the 50 hz i think you would have to tune higher to hit 50 on those jbl's because i got them in a 28 hz box and the peak is lower not sure on the back wave either i would have to test it it most likely the same as 1/4 waves wear the back wave has a effect on the front wave because of distance to windshield and box placement. split into 4 quarters could try it sealing up the box your right the box does peak differently

let me answer each question yes frequency's can change by type of sub or brand 2)does not effect port wars peaks port tune effect port wars peaks

no the port tuning for that sub determines peak frequency. but the tune can be higher then what it's tuned at.

at this link is a good example of tuning box tunes 33hz and 40 hz is it's peak you put 40 hz note threw it it will be louder then 33 but the 33 hertz note will feel harder then the 40 hertz it just the way this sub is. there are better out there like ssa's. but as you know the higher the hz the softer it hits. put it this way this sub could be better the 33 hz and lower just does not travel as far as the 40 hz note. this is why placement is key. now on to the other part. this is why i suggest those bass meknic cd's sonic over load .second cd track 4-11 the first 5 are low spl tracks. that rage in frequency like so track 4 = 20-30hz track 5= 30-40hz etc etc.... your just using five tracks to find your peak and your using a mic at the window or at the port etc...how ever they measure it for that particular comp.so read the rules. this is because every sub peaks differently like at link for the ported box. http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Boxes%20and%20Parameters/P1022rev3_27_06.pdf

your right. why bother.

why would it starve the subs of power ??? i think it set up perfectly the way he has it?? this is why any time you put a sub in series you give a little over half power or you will fry coils i would rather see it in parallel but has to many subs and one amp. just remember the term American wire gauge standard and ul listed you exceed the awg standard for power on a conductor it does not get UL listed because of the potential for fire in other words burned coils. any time you put one wire or coil in series with another you have to use the smallest awg used for the power calculation. so if there 300 watts and d4's and if you series each sub to bring them down to 2 ohms they should only handle a true 600 for all. so if i am wrong please explain it is the only way some one can learn why he wrong.

you can do it. it to hard to describe though.i try to find links after the description what they do is carpet 5 out of 6 faces of the box and the last face they paint but take a lot of prep and time to do it. that last face it is all bondo on the last face what i have seen is raised speaker rings in the center of a dado lip and they bondo out to the dado lip from the speaker rings in a dish shape. ya as you know bondo is smoother it is basically fiber glass then but on a mdf box i see if i can find a pic of some thing like it.

that is one awesome choice by you could not have made a better choice. i would wire them all down to two ohms on the saz1000d in a series and parallel wiring configure.

im hooked already on 4 10's... itll look cool and i pretty much already have a box design so its just deciding what 10" i want now. don't know if still looking ??? if you planing to go with the saz1000d and 4 subs that are 10 inch try these there kicker comp vr's . i know you can find them else were and i know cheaper too get them in a dual 2 ohm coil any ways here is what the subs look like we all know those are better sub the d con are but your on a budget i personally would save the cash and go four d cons like your saying your on a budget i would at least go with the saz1000d for 280 wile you can. these will hook right to it at one ohm. you have to parallel each subs dual coils to one ohm wire in series with a second set then wire two set of two in parallel. for one ohm load these will work way better then the pioneers and i think i have seen the kicker cvr's for as low as 34 .99 each just to tell ya but any ways check e bay amazon ike sonic etc... for cheapest price. here s that link to one the sub http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17399 just looked the cvrs up there 300 rms in my manual i got for a ported but will handle 400 in a sealed. i got two 8's in a small box this is why i thought to look btw this is another item i thought of. listed be low at link. http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Rockford-Fosgate-P2D210-10-Car-SUBWOOFERS-Punch-Subs_W0QQitemZ360168898134QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item53dbbd3e56&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1234|293%3A1|294%3A50

im hooked already on 4 10's... itll look cool and i pretty much already have a box design so its just deciding what 10" i want now. don't know if still looking ??? if you planing to go with the saz1000d and 4 subs that are 10 inch try these there kicker comp vr's . i know you can find them else were and i know cheaper too get them in a dual 2 ohm coil any ways here is what the subs look like we all know those are better sub the d con are but your on a budget i personally would save the cash and go four d cons like your saying your on a budget i would at least go with the saz1000d for 280 wile you can. these will hook right to it at one ohm. you have to parallel each subs dual coils to one ohm wire in series with a second set then wire two set of two in parallel. for one ohm load these will work way better then the pioneers and i think i have seen the kicker cvr's for as low as 34 .99 each just to tell ya but any ways check e bay amazon ike sonic etc... for cheapest price. here s that link to one the sub http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17399

I think there is a weak thermal’s on the ken woods. kicker makes the 400.1 and 300.1 the 300.1 is like 400rms by 1. the 400 maybe close to 500 rms by 1. and the this is for the newer ones sorry just thought of the weak thermals. i go with the 300.1 in the newest model posible like 08 or 09 model http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19645 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=20908