sadistic

these guys just picked up a term lab mic so you may want to contact them to see if any event will be happening. Home also seen a few guys doing a boat yard comps over on the west side of the state but did not feel like driving.

inside dimensions of 15x31.5x18.5 port size 15 x4 x29.75 if there is no "L" on the end it's to close to the wall. this will cause tuning issues it has to be about 27.5 inch plus the other piece that make the "L" For the port. any ways with what you did i got 3.6333 cubic feet at 31.75 hertz it a crappy design with to many flaws. i think the problem is the L and the box shape it just throwing the calculator off. i would redesign or go for bromo's box design.

Not that newbie’s are dumb. But there have been a lot of posts on here lately that if they read the pinned thread about them. It would make the post end a lot sooner or not even start Some of those threads are what is my tuning frequency? I like reading book and proving if they are wrong or right. So one I like is a book by old colony sound labs called loud speaker cook book. It’s a good book on the general subject of box tuning. And hay you may learn a thing or two about alignments. More then what a box calculator will teach you. Another subject is what components should I buy? I do not know because it is better to listen to them yourself. I for one prefer a silk non harsh tweet maybe you will like a composite tweet cause of them being brighter so do listen to other posts. What is the rms of my amp? If I knew I would be a genius. Reason is you have to hook it to an oscilloscope to measure rms / peak output for a good answer. All amps are different so having a different output levels from the same amp is possible. If you think of more please post below. btw this post is not to complain about newbies. i am not suggesting this should be pinned but at least it up here so people can read it before posting.

not to be mean but you forgot to list what subs you hook some fosgate p1 to a sundown 3000d at 1 ohm it will blow them if you see my point here. Please read this link before posting to help us better and yes 2 dual 4 ohm subs can be wired down to 1 ohm but what subs are they?

some general tips to add. please read the pinned articles. here are some point of what to look for in other articles and when posting. To help you better please do not be brief. The more you post the better we can help. Such as system goals like how many db’s looking to hit. Or even sq what you are looking for in your system. Some post are thin on info, so if you are looking at subs then which ones. How much you are willing to spend, what type of box you plan on putting it in. Weather it is sealed, ported, band pass, transmission line, radiator, etc…. what type of sub configure clam shell , two facing forward , one down one up , etc… what type and how much power you plan in that enclose etc…. placement in vehicle, such as facing back in a trunk or distance from windshield in a minivan for spl. These are only suggestions so think hard when posting and before you post. like i said is other's have more to add to help people out please do.

i would think a sundown audio 125.2 and a dcon 12 would be best this way you got plenty of power with out sending it in to clipping i was looking at the "s4" sub and bridging the amp this way you can use the gain to you advantage by not turning it to max if you had to you could go for a dual 4 ohm dcon and and run it two ohm off one channel it should have enough power on that amp.then if you come in to enough cash when you feel you need a bigger set up add another 12inch d con same configure. like these guys said i would look around on the site see what other suggest for components and come back this way a informed person helps us more. if you think you like it ask around i have seen other site suggest total crap and this one has a lot of good on the money suggestion. the reason for the two channel is this way your subs will have enough power. you can run the components off the head unit if need be if you do i suggest one with a good 5+band eq in it. for sound shaping reasons. this way maybe you can save some dough in the process. till you can get a smaller four channel amp and or another sub and or a bigger amp/ bigger subs this all depends on your goals. any ways welcome to the addiction in other words.

sounds like your reading my mind lol's add some tv's etc.. and should be a good demo car

those look really good thank should i put a set of components in the rear of the car also or just 2 ways ? that is a good set of speaker i hear but have not heard them personally . any ways as for the second set are they going in the rear deck or in the door. i know you know every say they distract you wile driving or etc etc... for surround sound experience you got to have them . but if you wanted to do just the fronts for sq purposes that's fine with people to cause the rear deck speaker most of the time sound like crap. because when the bass hits this causes the cone to hit peak xmax and they sound like crap but if you feel the rear pasengers need music then more the merrier. if not why bother but it is up to you usually i find the hole space is not filled with treble / mid bass. because it blocked by seats and people and gives me a funny feeling that some thing is missing. so usually i do surround sound so do not feel it's missing.

sure you can do 16-20 subs that get loud but is that what every one is doing. To be custom you got to think out side the box what about a sick install that hella loud ? Like a couple ported 15's in that truck if it's a extended cab. Or even slamming a astro and making it have the luxury of a limo with a sweet setup that gets loud in it got to be different to be custom.

here are some points I have noticed about mecp certification you can get it I have seen silver, gold ,etc ... but why get it in some states they require 5 years of apprenticeship to work on your own in auto electrical like wiring car engines. This is where there is a divide its ridicules to get a mecp cert in installing because it's like getting a cert from a accredited school from the back of a magazine should just go for gun smiting lol's. Although schools like installer institute are good they give you the hands on needed to succeed in this field. Then there is the point on those schools it an out dated profession. In 95-96 around here there was a surge in consumer electronics for auto's and the idea this could be a profession was brought up. Right now if you got a degree from Wyo tech or the like you’re golden but will it be a dead fad in a few year like car audio who knows. And yes car audio was bigger back in the day then it is today. And is dead compared to tuning imports but has been making a comeback.

I guess I prefer small tight sealed over ported, because it has more life to the music then a sq ported. That a one note wonder just does not do it for me so I lean more towards sealed then ported. Unless it's spl i use a t-line undampened of course or a ported.

if there not to harsh thats good, for most the composite tweet of focal are to harsh and if you had the cash they would say go morel supremo 3ways or at least i would. dd's i do not hear much about except there subs which are are good i hear.

are the focal's to harsh in the tweets? if so look for a silk tweeter like morel supremo at the high end. in the middle is Polk sr and momo and at the bargin end is cadence z series and phoenix gold rsd. me i think the cadence is a little better then the phoenix golds. but every one is a critic .

i think it's in all the post 's and should be said like this you should not need it if you got the correct amount or put it this way more then the correct amount of power . if you feel you need it your running to little power and tuning up the bass boost this sends it in to cliping. wich if it';s cliping you need a bigger amp at that point most of all if it sounds like the subs are barely moving you need a bigger amp.

awesome point. same with the 18 inch or less rule to. by the way why are you listing to that guy who told you not to run fuses he knows nothing about electrical.

this is one of the best post on the subject i have heard yet. you are absolutely right you can not use a dmm to test peak or rms power but can test polarity and if the signal is there. this is why a lot of noobs get confused in long dragged out post were people are being confusing fighting over a stupid point. any ways to guesstimate power of a amp in either bridge mode or at it lowest ohm load i use volt time amps times .707 to find rms just like on a o scope but is not the true way of doing it. it more Guesstimating power rating then any thing just to see if it is close.

first off i am not mister know it all so please bare with i do know a lot but will see . but any ways what is it with resonant tuning frequency? would it be better to tune low as possible for like a t line and get a higher score? unless your talking frequency length. the lower in the octave you got the hard the bass hits right ??? with in reason of course like the sub dropping off and just can't play well at 18 hz were it plays better at 47 Hz etc etc ... because the music energy is reaching the mic at it full potential of 47Hz if you tune to high the spl drops off again so you lose power in the spl right??? so why would you look for a resonant frequency like 18 hertz i thought was a resonant frequency because it resonates the body panels. which is not wanted any thing below 20 hertz really but is wanted because it hits the hardest hence the tuning of the subsonic filter right??? but the only problem i see is frequency length at 20 Hertz being to soft because the box dropped off kinda like a sealed in the graph on winisd were 40-50 hertz and above it is about base line like 1 w/ 1m of spl.and gradually drops off the lower it goes so 20 hertz is 12 db's down of the same sub in a ported box so if you lay the two over each other the ported and the sealed in winisd at 20 Hertz some subs are 12 db's different between the two ported versus sealed . but still frequency length is longest at 20 hertz but tends to drop off some times right because of the box ??? so if it's better to play low why are people looking for high frequency's??? if tuning low is best would this make a t-line best ??? i know t line will play lower in the octave such as 18 hertz and will out put a heck of a lot of db's then a ported for the same sub does. with in respect to that sub because certin sub play best in that certain box right??? kinda like putting a infinite baffle only sub in a ported box why do it ??? so why would you look for a higher resonant frequency is it because you are not reaching the mic??? then box is to far away but has to be behind the "b" pillar of the automobile right for most competitions so that would rule out car's for spl comps right if you wanted to hit a big numbers??? isn't this were planing comes in to effect ???? so why on one of my test tone disks booklets why does it say 67-200 hertz is the best for spl ???? i though 80 hertz and above was for mids/highs lol's i have never seen a sub play 67 and up but thats what the booklet say is for maxium spl is there a reson for this or is it just a typo????

talk about a pain in the arse! no matter how i did itthe port run smack in to the sub. which is bad. wait for shizzon see if he can help.

tuned to around 35. mostly hiphop. if i ran two 4 inch aero how do i calculate length? devide length by 2? thanks that was four areo ports if you ran two would that restrict flow ? and cause port noise? i have always used jlaudio.com's port formula under support on ther site it's a sq formula i think. what about a slot and bondo it in so you do not have to make a trim piece? then carpet the box.

[ what's the tune of the box to be that you wanted??? according to my figures 4 x 4 inch areo ports would work but if you put to close to gather the bends may be difficult to do if it's a low tune like 30 -31 hz this makes it harder yet cause of length if you need help just say some thing. this was port back sub up talk about a p.i.t.a.

i used a port that was about 6-8 foot long and if it had to be shorter i tuned it per this link see below. i try to stay below 80 hz because it has to be for comps you will be disqualified if it's above 80 hertz.. that's what i used on my two subs i put in a t line two 8's which is about one ten just a little smaller and made it about 5.9 feet long the longer the better. i ended out throwing a ten in it it hit so hart it throw the change from my cup holder. these are what they use in movie theaters so you can feel the bass the hole audience. very powerful and very clean. . not sure if you know how to get cone area but pie time radius squared is what i use to find it so if you get a number like 64 the port can be 8inch by 8 inch by aprox 6-8 foot long tends to be in the right tune frequency. i did not use *** formula i think it was junk. just more bs for newbie to sort threw. any ways i picked up the book amateur audio projects from parts express they say 6-8 foot long for ports it what i use and they hit hard common chambers are fine too. you can make the port area bigger then the cone area so a 64 sq inch could be 70 sq inch. according to that book i told you about any ways here it that link. http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0203cae_audio_speakers_basics/index.html

i got the ixl 15.2.2 awesome sub for sound quality it's not a spl sub at all. i think i would compare it to subs that are rated at about 84-85 db 1w/1m. do not let those number fool you it bumps hard because of the 22mm of x max. with the others in the lineup i do not think those sub even come close to the crystal clear bass that sub putout. i got it attached to a fosgate t600-2 wired down to four ohm and it bumps hard enough with that small of a amp. with the amp you got you could wire it series parallel at 2 ohm and rock two . i have had cvr's and they no way compare to the sq of a ixl.

is it a t-line or a ported box, wall, etc... ??? if it's a wall you ported you made the wrong box for spl they use t line which is a type of ported box they look similar but are not. here's how to make a T- line/ transmission line enclosure . measure the center of the shroud to the center of shroud across the cone. take that number divide in half this become the letter "R" in the formula pie time radius or "R" squared. now multiply the answer of that formula time the amount of woofers to get the surface area needed for the port area the port has to be 6 -8 feet long if you can not get it 6-8 foot long there is another formula at this link this will help get a estimate on length needed. http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0203cae_audio_speakers_basics/index.html this is so you do not shoot over the 80 hertz limit of the competition rules they can be 4.9 foot and etc... but going over 80 hertz is disqualification the t line will play 20-30 hertz region no problem i think i was doing about 142.5 in a t line with one ten inch jbl power p1022. of course it was not on a audio control or a termlab unit. plus that formula at link will help with frequency length and tuning freq of car etc... sorry i do not compete any more just not enough time for it and not enough money for it lol's. but have fun building boxes etc...

internal port is 6*7*9 and according to pioneer the box includes sub displacement so that is a non-issue I had 4 on these sealed in a grand am and it was loud as hell so i dont get it EDIT: I can post pics tonight when i get out of work. I built the box to fit in a blazer so it is to the left of my cargo area with my battery next to it on the right and a rubbermaid tote shoved in between the box and the right side of my cargo area that i keep tools in. Dont have anywhere else to keep them at the time and the hours of my stoage unit suck, I cant wait until i get into this house! EDIT 2: When I used to rock pairs of these in prefabs they sounded amazing no matter what I played for what its worth i see you did what i thought. it 9 inch long right ?? if so it's tuned 25.53 hertz so if you make the port 5 inches long it will tune it to 34 hertz. you made it to long and it seem like it need more power to get loud then what it should be.i would just make it 5 inch long. by 6 x 7 area. this way it should lose the feel of more power needed to push them .

ya if there at 1.65^3 the port in there is 6 inch long it's tuned 37.37 hertz i would go with the the bigger 2.00 ^3 per box tuned to about 33-34 hertz. to tune the box you got right now to 33.49 which is closer to 34 you need at least 8 inch long by 7 x1area per sub which is a 3 inch round tube. if you made 6 slots for 6 ports you will be fine. but if you add them together you got to change length for the extra area. it throws the formula's just use the length x width to get area and make the port a couple of inches longer to make up for it.