explosivesound

two IA DP21's. They reccommend 10 cubes net per driver

Ive made my own ported boxes in the past but nothing more than a rectangular ported box with f-glass. I dont want to pay a shop to make my box, I want to build it myself. Its a 2000 grand am. Back seat obviouslly removed. I dont really understand how to do the edges and different angles. to take up ALL the space. Or do I forget angles and just do what I can. I was going to do it all in fiberglass but that is probably a stupid idea and a stupid amount of work. The only other problem is how to calculate volume with so many different angles and how to exactly calculate how to measure the bracing and port volume. If anyone has a site to direct me to that deals with Wall setupts that would be great. I want to have pride in this job knowing I did it (Not to mention the price savings!) Any help appreciated!

I just got done with all my measurements and with just using Mdf I have a volume of 23.44 cubes (Mdf included in measurements) so after bracing, subs, and port I should be real close to 20 cubes net volume when all is said and done so I think I will scrap any fiberglassing plans. That should cut my cost and time down ALOT! That box allows just enough room for batteries and amps cramped in the very back. I cant wait to start the build thread but it will be when my wife and I get back from Vegas! which will be the 18th.

I need 20 cubes from the grand am! The box will extend into the trunk. Can I mix MDF and F-glass? What I mean is have the baffle doubled up MDF and all the flat spots MDF but fill in all the space in between wth f-glass. If I can do that then how in the world do I calculate air space with all the rounded and molded edges?

My wife absolutely hated it until she was driving around and people started asking her to turn it up. Imagine that, a woman that likes attention!LOL! She quit her complaining for awhile but now that I want to do a wall she things Im a tard again!

First let me say that I absolutely hate having to ask a this vs that question. That being said I want to get the best setup for my preferences and have limited experience. I have had many different setups but only two serious setups. Both included identical parts (same car I blew one sub switched to another.) For electrical I had the big 3 done in 0 gauge, a normal battery in the engine bay with 4 red tops in the back, 5 single farad capacitors on a bus line, a Alphasonic 8 volt line driver, two Earthquake D3 amps, and a 240amp alt. It was in an old school 4 door buick century (yes the system was worth much more than the car lol!) At first I had a 15" Audiobahn Immortal Quad Coil in a 5 cube box ported to 34hz. I ran each amp to two coils and had the amps matched for output. The box sat on the rear seat. The immortal was quite impressive to me but not nearly loud enough. I kept popping voice coils and after awhile got sick of that (in hindsight I have a feeling that the alt. wasnt enough and eventually the system would clip and pop a coil) Then I switched to a DD9515f. Now that I was impressed with but eventually started popping coils (It was in a 5.5 cube box at 34hz.)_ Most people couldnt stand being in the car but it still wasnt loud enough for me. I dont care about comps. but I want it to give that feeling of being choked and hardly being able to breath. So its for rediculous daily with demo capability (hairtricks, etc.) I listen to tons of bass music (bass mechanik, bass 305) and hip hop. I love the lows, not too fond of any peaky bass at all. I have bought most of what I need (electrical) for my new car but still havent decided on amps/subs. Car is a 2000 Pontiac Grand AM. I have 4 PowerMaster D3100's, a 320 amp alt. and Ive run a few runs of 0gauge to the back of the car. Ive got fiberglass and a ton of MDF. I absolutely want a wall behind the front seats. I can do a 20cube box (thats going into the trunk a bit!) Now the this for that. Budget for subs would be in the $1200 range, I cant afford much more because I still need amps and other parts for the car. I have done as much research as I can locally but there are no dealers of ANYTHING other than mainstream stuff (Kicker, JL, MTX, RF, etc.) and my DD blew those products out of the water ( Ive had an MTX 9500, a Kicker L7. and a Boston G5.) My ideas are: two 21" IA DP's (10 cubes each works perfect with box size), two DD9518G's with composite cone, or two Atomic APXX18's. By the way I could care less about SQ!!!! I know the DD and Atomic's have higher thermal handling and higher power handling. The DP's obvioussly have cone area on their side. So will the DP's even only taking 1500-2000 rms hang with the other two powered by double that? I plan on tuning around 29hz. with a 24db slope on crossover at 25hz. and under to help the drivers from unloading. I do notice the APXX has by far the lowest XMAX but I understand thats common in a SPL sub. Unfortunately without T/S parameters I have no clue the sensitivity on the DP, but the Atomix is 97.1 1w/1m and I believe the DD is about 94 1w/1m. Also will the low frequencies be hard on the Atomic at lower frequencies since it doesnt have much XMAX? As much as I see the reviews on FI/AA and similiar brands I wouldnt choose them over DD. So I guess its between these 3. Either way I imagine with a wall and any of those subwoofers it will be stupid loud, but Id like to feel confident that I got the best for my application. Oh and to clarify about amp power I would probably run a Sundown 1500d to each DP, the Atomic's and DD would at least see a Sundown 3000D each. I appreciate anybody that took the time to read this and give me feedback. I want to give thanks ahead of time. And I will start a build log when I start the box after getting the Subs/amps! Thanks everyone!

I stated in my posting I will probably be using Sundown amps. I will not be using Earthquake. I have heard negative things about Earthquake amps so I definitely wont be going that route again. I spoke with Atomic and DD they told me the same thing about the Earthquake amps. I will also be using an o-scope to make sure nothing is sending a clipped signal. I cant go with 4 15's in any of those brands because of cost. I did the math on cone area and the two 21's would be 692.37 and the 18's would be 508.68 so the 21's have much more cone than I realized. My wife just chimed in she likes the way the DD's look (lol) and doesnt like the Atomic's, so I guess its now down to the DP21 or DD9518G!

I had never heare of IA until I came across these forums. I am very interested in the DP or Warden 21 but I have a few questions. The best sub that I can buy locally is an Orion HCCA 15.2. It looks pretty bad ass but obvioussly has no where near the cone area of the 21". The last system I had was a DD9515 with a Earthquake D3. Will the DP 21" be enough to easily eclipse the DD9515 and/or the Orion? Or do I need to go up to the Warden? Current amp is a Crunch Groundpounder 3000 pro. Although it isnt my focus the orion has 4" exursion. What is the Excursion on the DP 21? I have 9 Cubes available for the box. Purpose is a rediculous daily driver/demo. Also are there options on the 21's. For example the Orion has dual progressive spiders and Ive seen BTL's with 5 spiders and Ascendant Audio Mayhems with 4. Also is the Alluminum voice coil better than the copper 4" voice coil in the HCCA? Im just trying to get info because I want something unique but also able to take a beating. Does the DP or Warden have the option of a 4" Voice Coil? The last question I have is about weight. Does how much the sub weight make any difference? The DD9518G is like 72lbs. and the Orion 15 is like 50 and to my knowledge the DP 21 is about 50. Does the Orion and DD have stronger parts since it weighs more (the orion is about the same but its only a 15.) Or are the magnets just that much heavier on the others? I just want to be confident when I pay for the DP or Warden that with options it will outperform the Orion and DD with not just its larger size but also in its parts. I appreciate anybodys help and input.