Hell-Razor

What do you mean by "going active"? I thought I would just wire everything to that amp, I think its considered bridging. This is just what was recommended to me in another forum for my Fi BTL sub. I am looking for advice, do's, dont's, stay away froms, brand's, and more...

Sorry for posting in wrong forum and I knew I forgot to add something. I have a 2002 VW Passat. I am going to toss in a 220 amp alternator and a good backup battery (should be enough to power everything). As for price range, I know the amp is 250 (give or take a little), so I wouldnt want to spend more than like 800 on the speakers, not including the amp.

Well the most I can find now is a 140 amp alt and thats a DC one for 585$. The other one I can find is the powerbastards one. I think that is my best bet atm.

Hey guys, Just wanted to say thank you before I start all this out. I have been looking for a good subwoofer now for a few weeks and came to Fi's website and started looking at posts / subs. These seem to be one of the top subs out there for the price. Anyway, just a quick reason for why I am here. My sister died in a car accident about two and a half weeks ago (May 15th) and in her name I would like to build a competition / everyday car. Now I am not saying this for pity or anything like it. I am just trying to start off the reason why I am here. She loved car audio, I was not into it that much. But I would like to get into it. Simply put, I know almost nothing about subwoofers and car audio but I hope this is one of the places to learn. On that note, can somebody post a youtube video that may explain things (like ohms for example or installation tips/tricks). There are a lot of videos out there but most of them may be junk. Anyway I am here to (eventually) get two 18" BTL's and make them sound the best I can with somewhat of a money budget. I will first order one 18" and get the cars electrical system and all that beefed up. I have been reading up and one main thing I dont understand are the ohms option. Dual 1 or Dual 2 ohms. Well what is better? I know this has to do with power and friction from the amplifier (I think, could be way off). A quick explination and amybe a wiki or website to help would be awesome (I am also looking, not just relying on you guys). My second question is the cooling option. How hot will the subs get (normally) without this option? How about with? I am planning on getting a good high quality amplifier (im hoping for a 5-8k watt amp). What kind of temperatures can they handle without overheating? Is cooling worth it? Another questoins is about the HiXmCoil. I cant even guess. Google pulls up nothing and my audio friends dont know either... Ive been reading the forums on the SPL or Daily option and read that "If youre going to listen to music at all with the subs, get daily". Well why? Is there an easy explination to that? Like why would I want SPL over Daily or likewise? And my last two questions are about the Induct Heat Ring and the Universal option. Universal may be for Universal connections? I have no idea once again. The one thing I do know about is building a good quality box. My Uncle is a very well known architect and if we cant build it together then we will find out how either with books or google or just coming back here with ideas. There is one thing though about ported or non ported (sorry, this should be the last question). I know non ported will be a little more boomy and not have as a low as a non-ported but will hit harder. The non ported box wont hit as hard but will have a more crisp and lively sound to it. What do you guys recommend? I have a single MTX 10" 8500 in my car right now (going to sell to help pay for these) with a ported and I think that thing hits hard, but compaired to these its probably a spitball. Thanks in advanced to all of those who will help in the future. -Justin I forgot to add I would also like to try and install all this myself. I have read up on a few instructions and looked at some videos and it seems pretty easy and straight forward. Any tips / tricks would be more than welcome. I did think of a few more questions but they are not as important. 1) What would you guys recommend for in-car speakers (doors and behind the back seat). I know these subs will put out a hell of a boom I would like something that will be able to keep up with them 2) What amp would you recommend? I may not get the second 18" but I would like the option to 3) Alternator, again what would you recommend? Ill post the car I am gonig to use when I get home from work. 4) Batteries. I know I am going to need more but what kind is the best and how many? I am thinking two if I get a good alternator or maybe even three.

I just looked quick for rhino alternators...from what I can find they do not support the VW

I am not trying to cheap out. I am going to beef up the electrical and get a big secondary battery before I begin to order things. The only problem is is that not a whole lot of places carry imported (vw) alternators. I could be getting ripped off by going with the more expensive but less output alt. Or I could go with the less known company and pay less but could get a really good alt. Everybody (company wise) has to start somewhere. Fi is not a huge company (yet). I have not heard anything about them even though I go to dB races and SPL contests to just see what kind of rides people have (mainly in Wi and Chicago area). Now I am not saying that the 450+$ alternator is not good, I am sure it is. I know lots of people run DC power alternators. But look at Boss , they hype everything up and jack up the price. I am not saying DC does the same, but it could be. I hope I make sense. i am not trying to undercut / cheap out / complain / show up / make a fool of anybody / yada yada. The list goes on; what I am trying to do is get less known products to help out those who need it and are not well known. That is one of the reasons why I want to go all out with Fi, not lots of people know them. I know there is a lot of junk out there as well, so I am still looking around. I am giving PowerBastards a call Monday and ask generic questions (anybody know of any specific questions I should ask?). I will also be talking to the family mechanic to see what he thinks about it. Who knows, maybe if I beef up the electrical I may find some spair cash laying around and be able to go with a SAZ-3500 and a 18" BTL....

holey cow... 500$ for an alternator?!... and it looks like VW Passat is not in the supported list.

http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall-220 I take it back, that one is a LOT cheaper than the 120 amper. Is it worth it? Its 100 amps more and it seems to be built for supplying car audio systems. Is there somethnig I am missing? Could this alt be a pos?

Alright I figure ill upgrade the electrical and then buy the system cause I don't want to fry anything. The only problem is is the highest output alternator I can find is only 120 amps for this car...

I am pretty confused as well. The car I am tossing all of this into is a 2002 VW Passat. 4d Sedan....I am seeing multiple websites that say this is a double din cd player. I am also seeing some websites that say this is not a double din cd player... The cd player IS stock, I may jsut have to post some pictures to get a for sure answer... http://l.images.easyautosales.com/2003-Volkswagen-Passat-10134000-304.jpg there you guys go. It says 2003 but thats the exact cd player thats in my car as well.

Alright. I am still looking at crutchfield for soemthing decent.

Can you explain what you mean by a "front stage"? What about a single SAZ-2000D with the Big Three and a huge primary bat? And if I wanted more, tie in a SAZ-1500D with a HO alt?

Just though of one more question for you guys. What would happen if my car cant supply the power needed for the BTL? Will it reek havok on anything major? Could / Would it damage the amp / sub (if so how bad?)?

Anybody know the name of that design program?

Oh and another thing I forgot to answer. The reason why I want to invert it is because I have never done it. I think it could be done and the way I am thinking of designing the box it may look cool. Besides that? I have no idea. If I get it and invert it and it sounds like shit, it will only take a few hours to build another...

Alright, 1) why are you recommending a SAX-50.4? And what would this be for? 2) Alright second battery grounded to chassis, no problem. 3) Ok that amp doesn't give enough power to its full potential, and this will be my second system. First system is a single 10" mtx 8500 and that rms's at about 500 watts I believe. Will the BTL handle two of the amps I am looking at strapped to it? It will lower it to .5 ohms if I am correct and provide it with...well more power than I think it will be able to handle (but not sure). 3) Good thing to know about the amp. Please do note this is my FIRST install, I am jumping into it. When the time comes after I order everything I will take a LOT of pictures of me just trying to set it up and try to have some people stay online for updates / help. I will also post everything (pictures and what they are and website) to make sure I am not missing everything. Also note I am still looking for a better battery. EDIT - I am getting this amp install kit. Maybe you made a mistake and missed it. Will this still not work?

Way bigger than a 1125 CCA battery. Ok whats a better battery then? minim cca? I do not have enough $$ right now for a HO alt.

Alright I am getting things settled at my place and just about ready to get things rolling. Just a few questions here about install: 1) I do the big 3 on my stack battery under the hood (correct?) 2) I run 1/0 gauge wire (about eight feet) to a second deep cycle battery in the trunk (would I want to put the fuse on this wire?). I haven't looked at this yet but I think its negative to positive, I would read up on this a LOT cause I don't want to short anything out. 3) Would I want to ground out the second batter? 4) I would then connect the amp to that battery (again, would I fuse this one as well?) 4a) Is that amp good enough? Is there like a 2500 or 3000 watt amp I should be getting instead? 5) Then install the rest. Is there anyway I could (should) wire the amp to the in car speakers? I am going to get new ones eventually but just haven't thought much about inside the passenger compartment at all (I would think this would need a crossover).

Well I have been looking around a lot for different decks and wondering which ones are the best for what I am willing to pay. I would like one of those that have a touch screen and actually come out of the dash, but it is not necessity. The more reviews I read on them any of them under 1000$ are cheap and break often. My budget for one of these seems to be no more than 500$. I would like blue tooth for my cell phone, my cars computer has the ability to see what bands /songs are playing on fm radio (no idea what its called), and have the capability of iPod usage (I have an iPod touch). Anybody know what I should be looking at off the bat? I have been looking at a lot of crutchfield stuff but none of it seems to wow me. Oh I am putting this deck in a 2002 VW Passat. It has a massive area for a radio. I would say double the normal height and the same width...

I was looking at these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14267_...n+VM9512HD.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17254_JVC+KD-AVX77.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17614_Boss+BV9995B.html I really like the last one, but not very good reviews...

What program is that? I really really really really need one of those...

Shit you guys have any spare material I could snag? =)

Alright I am just trying to figure out a good way to make the sub wiring look nice if I were to mount it magnet out. I have googled around to see how other people do it, but how would YOU do it?

Is there an easy way to figure out what your peak frequency is?

Well I hope its all right, I ordered my amp kit and big 3 wiring today.