bigrank916

sorry but how do you KNOW your is close to 2000? did you do a clamp test and measure it? or is this what someone else siad? I know its close because its under the best scenerio for its power consumption. We all know they wont put out rated at a normal 13.8 driving voltage. Maybe not even at their rated 14.4. But mine is about 14.6-14.7 just about all the time. So at optimal conditions I should say, hope its 2000. What more could I do? I never KNOW for sure about close unless its horseshoes and handgrenades.

Thanks. It still needs work though. Its the first ride I ever bought. Held on to it and been dumpin money in her ever since! I wanted to black mine out but dont now if Im gonna keep it.

You can use the die hard and it wont matter if youre not adding. I use a die hard suv/truck series with 2000 and its fine. If you want to add though I would look into an AGM cell thats a little pricier. Not too much though. Just make sure your electrical is good.

You never want to assume such an acute number range but yes it will be underrated. How much? Who knows? Thats why I said what I did cause you just hope for the best with a cheaper amp. I know mine is close to 2000 but Im not sure. I have a 250amp alt and 1/0 gauge going right to the amp so Im hoping for the best.

No thats not what Im going to say at all. You should go for something more rms appropriate. It will still blow your mind but not as big a chance to fnuck it up. An SAZ2000 would be perfect. Im about to use the SAE1200D and I know it will be fine.

Ok. Is this your first system since you are 15?

As long as you do the big 3, you will be fine. It will help any amp perform at its best. I have a hifonics right now and it wails my BTL but I also have a nice alt too! And if you are looking to spend only $200 then quality is not a big concern no? If thats the case you can find quite a few.

So what is the budget?

Not many. Maybe 2. Glad I found this one.

Its not watts, its amps that you speak of on the alt. It sounds like budget is your main concern? What kind of vehicle?

That has major knock. Much props. Looks really good too. Always wanted to paint my old camaro that color.

Try putting 5 in the square port width and 12 in the square port length 2. You get about 35hz even. Hope it helps.

If there is no stereo on or anyhting else and it does that, then it sounds like you have a power prob in the vehicle. Maybe your alt is getting bad?

The last two boxes Ive built, I have been using this calc. Its probably not exact either! lol. It does the tuning for you while you change the specs. I t takes a little a number flopping to get exactly what you want though. It might help to fool around with. http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

Ya, he keeps it pretty loud.

You dont really need one. Just do the big 3 and it will help tremendously. It really depends on how much power you want to run.

Thats pretty ballsy considering you just toasted 2 home audio plate amps trying to hook them up to a BTL at a 1 ohm load. Just slow down and wait to put it in your car.

Looks like tedious work! But fun! Those amp terminals are ridiculous. That amp is crazy lookin. Nice goin so far. It looks good. And plenty of room for groceries and things! Just keep tellin yourself that and it will stick.

There is no way you can run a D2 ohm subwoofer at 2 ohms. Couldnt you just wire each vc to seperate channels at 2 ohm? He's talking specifically about the kicker amp he has, which is a mono amp. 'I knew I wasnt crazy! That sounded weird but I should have known better.

The above earlier testing was done with a prototype Z v.2 motor with 2 Hard / 1 Soft of our current Nightshade spiders. --- New testing done with two of the "new" spiders w/ double tinsel leads (much softer) also on prototype motor -- pending a bit more testing this will most likely be the "standard" suspension on production models : Same box... "magic box" in the Jeep. HU Setting / Power / SPL -6 / 540 watts / 146.0 dB -5 / 680 watts / 146.9 dB -4 / 860 watts / 147.7 dB -3 / 1090 watts / 148.6 dB -2 / 1380 watts / 149.5 dB -1 / 1730 watts / 150.3 dB 0 / 2230 watts / 151.2 dB +1 / 2780 watts / 151.9 dB +2 / 3480 watts / 152.8 dB +3 / 4800 watts / 153.5 dB Notice that large gain in SPL per watt... also, notice that with "rated power" I am right around 150 dB I am still waiting on production coil samples... I will do another round of testing of SPL per watt at that time. I also expect gains on production motors vs. prototype as stated before -- as the production has a tighter gap (more BL). Can I get the cut sheet for that box? I think Id like one of those.

Perfectly said.

If that comes from the back of a house sub, then maybe it was too low of an ohm load for it.

Welcome dude. You're next to Jacob over there in Troutman. Id take a look at that Jeep if i were that close.

I would port that also. Thats a huge freakin box man.

There is no way you can run a D2 ohm subwoofer at 2 ohms. Couldnt you just wire each vc to seperate channels at 2 ohm?