Sammy Sandbag
New Members-
Content Count
22 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Sammy Sandbag
-
Thanks again. This was my first "real" system build up. I installed two amps, components, and a pre-built RF sub in my last truck, but used all the factory speaker wiring. This one on the other hand gave me some new found respect for those who do these awesome installs.
-
I was going to post this in the Show Off forum, but it won't let me. Rather than copying what I've already posted elsewhere, I'll just give you the link: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-visu...I AM A-sirius.html It's a pretty long write up, but lots of pictures.
-
Well I'm a mod over at TT, so I just had the topic hidden from the public while I worked on it. I actually finished most of the install a while ago, but hadn't finished the write-up. The RLi-10's are nice. Real clear and will go low. Definately not an SPL type sub, but great for my needs. Thanks for all the compliments guys.
-
Well my RL-i 10's arrived yesterday, and I want to get them in a box asap. No literature was provided with them, but not a big deal. I just need to know the displacement of these subs so I can figure my overall box size. I spoke with Mike via email and he recommended a .6 cu ft per sub sealed box. I'll be running 425w RMS to each, and they'll be down-fired under my rear bench of my crew cab truck. One thing I noticed was that the mounting surface is a bit different from what I'm used to. The mounting holes are covered with a rubber "ring." The holes through this ring appear to be the same diameter as the holes through the mounting surface of the basket. So my question is; how exactly should these be properly mounted? Do I run a bolt and washer through with the washer on top of the rubber ring, compressing everything below it, or do I somehow run the bolt/waser below the top side of this ring and rest the washer on the actual basket? i hope that makes sense. Thanks in advance.
-
RL-i 10's arrived, now box questions
Sammy Sandbag replied to Sammy Sandbag's topic in SoundSplinter
Well the original target was .7 ft^3, so that's why I was concerned. It'll probably end up being around .60 since I'm going to have to flush mount the subs. Man this box is a female dog. I'm jealous of you SUV and car guys, there's just no room under my back seat. Check for photos: http://www.titantalk.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=508 -
RL-i 10's arrived, now box questions
Sammy Sandbag replied to Sammy Sandbag's topic in SoundSplinter
Thanks Mike. I did some reworking to try and gain some more space. If my calculations are correct, I can get about .74 ft^3 per sub before basket displacement. I believe you said the RLi-10 has a volume around .1 ft^3, so giving me .64 ft^3. How do you think that will work with 425 w rms? Should I still plan on adding polyfill? Also, I've never used polyfill before, but I did use about 1" of fiberglass insulation on my last box. I assume polyfill is just polyester pillow stuffing, how should it be installed? I mean is it just stuffed in there or is there a method? Thanks in advance. -
RL-i 10's arrived, now box questions
Sammy Sandbag replied to Sammy Sandbag's topic in SoundSplinter
Thanks for the quick reply Mike. Another question; I'm having a hard time getting the amount of volume I had originally planned for, things are tighter than they originally appeared. So what is a good range of volume for these to operate at? For what it's worth I can supply up to 425w rms to each. -
RL-i 10's arrived, now box questions
Sammy Sandbag replied to Sammy Sandbag's topic in SoundSplinter
Quick question guys. I'm just now getting to building a box. I know, I know, it took me forever to start. But, do the rubber covers on the magnets serve any purpose other than looks? My enclosure is an odd shape so that it'll fit in my truck, and removing the rubber covers gives me a little more room to work with. Let me know. Thanks. -
RL-i 10's arrived, now box questions
Sammy Sandbag replied to Sammy Sandbag's topic in SoundSplinter
post pix when you work on the box <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Will do, I'm keeping pretty good record of everything I do on the truck. -
RL-i 10's arrived, now box questions
Sammy Sandbag replied to Sammy Sandbag's topic in SoundSplinter
Nevermind, I found what I was looking for in an old email from Mike. He stated that the driver displacement is .1 cu ft. Thanks again. -
RL-i 10's arrived, now box questions
Sammy Sandbag replied to Sammy Sandbag's topic in SoundSplinter
Thanks for the insight, I figured that was the proper procedure. However, I could seem to find the basket displacement, maybe I'm just not looking in the right place. Thanks again, Sammy -
Hey guys, glad I found this place. I'm finishing up an install in my Nissan Titan and I've run into a wall. I've got all the comps, amps, HU, changer, everything except for my subs installed. Problem is my mounting depth restrictions. I have already gone through two RF 8"s (didn't like the sound), a cheap Infinity 10" (not enough) and now I have two Infinity 10VQ's sitting in my living room because their 6.5" mounting depth is going to be nearly impossible to squeeze under the rear seat and still manage enough air space. So I was recommended the SS RL-i 10" by a friend. Its mounting depth should work fine, but I wanted to ask you guys if it will suit my needs. I'm not into HUGE spl, but I want a good mix of SQ and bass when I want it. The amp I have for driving the subs is an Infinity 1210A, which according to their specs puts out 854w rms at 4 ohm and 1300w rms at 2 ohm. Judging by the last two boxes I made, I figure I can fit around .75 cu ft per sub in a sealed enclosure. I've never made a ported box, and not sure where to start. So what do yall suggest? Would these RL's be a good choice for my application, what kind of impedence/coil/wiring, and what kind of enclosure should I go with? Thanks in advance, Sammy
-
Thanks, I got a reply from Mike this morning. I have to say this is by far the best customer service, or at least the most personal service I've received from an electronics company. So just out of curiosity, who exactly is Mike? Thanks again, Sammy
-
Yeah, that's what I was asking. Do you have an actual email address for him or do I just use the online form on their web site?
-
Through their online form?
-
Okay, dumb question perhaps, but I'm a little confused with the purchase process on SS's site. I ordered the two RL's, but it never asked for any shipping options nor any billing info (ie credit card or pay pal info.) All I got was an email? How exactly do they operate their online sales? BTW, I already shot them an email using their online form, but I figured I'd ask yall as well. Thanks, Sammy
-
Thanks for the help guys, I think I'm set on these subs. I'm sure I'll be back when it comes time build the enclosure and wire them. Thanks again.
-
Yeah, but the way I have my rack setup, it would be easier if I can just use the one wire I already have coming from my amp. I can do all the wiring within the enclosure. I just want to make sure it'll work that way, unless of course there's some way to wire this up to get a 2ohm load for more power but I don't see how that would be possible. Thanks again, Sammy
-
I'm getting a bit confused, so bear with me. If you wire a single DVC 4ohm sub, you can only see a 8 or 2ohm load right? Like this: So if I wired two subs up that way and connected each to it's own output on the amp I could see a 2ohm load or would it be 4ohm at that point? That's where I'm getting confused, because to wire a 4ohm load you'd have to do this correct: The problem is that I have already installed my amp rack and have only one wire running to one of the speaker outputs on the mono amp. Thanks for your help again.
-
Hmmm, so am I not getting the full power off of one of those outputs? The manual says to just wire off of one output for a single sub, seems like that would give me the full power despite what kinda setup I have connected to those wires. Because if I'm wiring two of these RL-i10's for a 4ohm load, then they would be wired together and only need one wire going to them.
-
Thanks for the replies guys. 60ndown, sorry but there's no way I could squeeze an RL-p 12 in there, it has a mounting depth of 6.91", even bigger than my Infinity VQ's. mrray13, you're saying that 850w at 4ohm should be enough for two of those RL-i10's, so around 425w per sub? I just want to make sure, as my last sub was powered of a bridged 2-channel sub, and I'm not all that familiar with mono sub amps. Another question yall might be able to help me with. The Infinity 1210A is a mono sub amp, but it has two sets of speaker outputs. The manual is kinda crappy and just states if you are using one sub to wire it to the left output, which is how I wired my amp rack. The manual doesn't go into how wiring should be setup with multiple subs, especially ones with DVC and how to wire them for a desired load. I'm guessing I'd wire them like is show here in wiring option #2, and continue to have them wired to only the left set of speaker outputs? Another option would be to go with the RL-i8 and have two forward firing, which is what I had done with my Rockford Fosgate 8"s. But it seems like it'd be better to go with the 10's as long as I can manage enough space underneath and above them under the seats. What do you think? Thanks again, Sammy Here's a pic of my amp rack:
-
Thanks for the greeting, I was told that they offer 2ohm DVC through special orders. I guess the bigger question would be, do I even need it considering my amp setup? Another thing I should have mentioned is that I plan to downfire these, what kind of distance should I plan for between the sub and floor? Also, how much space between the bottom of the sub and enclosure? Thanks again.