pimpedout97x

been working on the back lately, i dont have much more left to do really as far as the trim panel in the rear goes. i love how its coming out. cut out the rear trim panel, although i knew it wouldnt fit, so i had to 2 piece it to get it in the car. drivers passenger all i gotta do is make a little triangular piece to cover over this mess, and im done with the rear trim panel. im thinkin since the headliner, side panels, are suede, im thinkin of black vinyl for the trim panel i just put?? ideas here please. raising the floor a little, this is where ill put things like excess wire, fuses, my 3 way crossover, etc etc. (under the floor) the floor will be suede as well, thats why i think suede top bottom and sides, then the center trim panel would look good accenting it in vinyl closed the sunroof, need to cover this in suede, and it wont look bad at all. this is what looks bad, but no one will ever see it, the sunroof DOES still open though, its just pointless since its sealed off. its very stiff, ive got the 3/4", then a layer of Peel n Seal, then 1/4", then another layer of peel n seal, then the final 1/4" which you see from the inside of the car, which will get sueded.

the ENTIRE inside will have at least 2 layers of mat + resin

perfect the POS basket

cut out the 2nd baffle. and test fit of the basket for the 18 btw, its bent from the factory, so i gotta call up RE and see whats up...someone failed in china, LOL the money shot! angle = 70 degrees foamed up little gaps that need filling. no big deal, had to cut it all funky looking, due to the B pillars being only about 45" wide from side to side, and the box is like 47" trim panel will cover this

starting to come together!!!! will be 2 layers thick, and a 3rd layer on the outside, which will be the flush panel/trim panel, and have a brace in the center of the 2 subs, from that point, to the floor.

thanks

go big, or go home 1 of 2 18" recone/basket next to 12" basket template for the back trim panel. gotta go get some 1/4" birch tomorow, 11 bux for a 4x8 sheet, and it weighs NOTHING lol.

ive spent this much time on the sides, all those angles and all, might as well go the whole way

due to the complexity of the sides of my box, its going to be kind of hard to build a slot port on the top of the box. i was thinking, instead of a slot port, should i do like 4 6" aero's? (or whatever i need to get the right amount of port area) which leads me to my questions. -if you have 200 (example) sq in of port area, with a slot port, if you switch to aeros, do you still need a ton of aero's to get 200 sq in? or does less aeros equal out to the larger port area of a slot port? -aero ports in a wall. how will this work? i know one con is i dont get the natural bracing a slot port would provide, but ill deal with that, and add some extra bracing. -difference in sound? spl? numbers?

box = in for good. glued/screwed it down to the false floor today. the side panels are just sitting there, i havent put them in yet. gonna get the top piece cut before i screw those 2 window panels in. theres padding on the back as well, where it hit the window a bit. had a whole sheet of birch, and all i have left is the top/front/port, which wont be a whole sheet, so instead of 2x4s, i added a 2nd layer of 3/4" birch to the back, it made it very solid. had to 2 piece it hell, i like how the back is looking better than the front lol. also, as far as all the 90 degree angles inside the box go....im going to round them all before i fiberglass the entire interior of the box, but the box will be complete before i do so. also, i just want to test the box without glass/rounding the edges, and see how it sounds, and go from there.

LOL @ the "box" anyways, on a serious note, will this work? how many would you run for 2 18" mts? i believe i have roughly 15-16 cubes before sub displacement, and i want to tune around 31-32hz. this is how the box sits now, im hoping that it wont affect the airflow too much, i will be rounding every square edge in the box, adding some small 45s in every corner, and glassing and smoothing the entire interior of the box. what you think?

thanks for the info Ron. zedman, i ordered my 10.4" vga touchscreen (samsung LCD) and i need to make a mdf frame for the lcd panel, and mold it in the dash.

i was really close to ordering a Pioneer AVIC-D3 for the Mini. well, its 700 shipped, 6.1" screen, navi, etc. for a couple hundred more, why not get a carPC? so im doing just that. i ordered the 10.4" samsung VGA touchscreen. i need to figure out the PC thing now. im mostly concerned with the audio output. im going to keep my Head unit, and run audio out from the PC, to red/white aux in on the nakamichi HU. then sub/front/rear outs from the HU, to the EQ, then to the crossover, then to the amps. my question is, if the audio out on the PC is a standard 3.5mm jack, would is sound bad if i ran 3.5mm out from pc, to red/white aux in on HU? (i ran my ipod this way for a while, didnt sound any different than playing a cd did) i dont know how a PC would react though to that, vs using just the ipod as i stated above. or, should i get a motherboard (or sound card) with optical audio or digital audio out? then the next issue occurs. should i sell the Nakamichi, and get an indash sound processor, with a optical or digital audio in to accept the signal from the PC? what are my options here?

ya, the fact that it says Crunch is something i dont like, lol. but theres numerous threads on how it does more than rated. http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/20/13993.html

looks great!

probably not going to do anything else on the box tonight. tomorow i wanna try and finish the sides and the top. i changed the oil in the car today as well. friend of mine hahahhah

random pics door is double 5, windshield is 15, the glare strip at the top is 5% over the 15%.

well becuase i wanted dvd/navigation, and for a few hundred more than a pioneer or something, id rather take advantage of the 3.4" bigger screen, and hard drive space, internet, GPS, etc.

Interesting, that's what the H701 is! I'd trust it over something like the XM-6 anyday. There are programs out there that make the H701s flexibility look feeble too, like Console. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26023 that looks bad ass. i didnt really mean i wont "trust" it, its just, with the speakers im using, the coustic will be fine. if i was into top notch SQ, as most of you are, i would see the need for that. but honestly, with PA speakers, the coustic will suit my needs fine, and i wont have to fool with the software crossover. i was looking at some EQs, theres some crazy EQ's out there, 31+ bands, etc... i want one of those on the PC when i get it built. lol its okay.

i dont like that type of knob though. if i get that card, i would put it in the glove box or somewhere hidden. i want a knob like a knob on a head unit.

Should work just fine. Certainly not the best idea, but it can work how else should i wire it up? You can easily still have a knob, Windows volume control supports external knobs. i didnt know that. ill just do that, and run an EQ on the PC. thanks for that info STUPID reason i know. i might JUST use the crossover. instead of the EQ and crossover. i dont want to bother with a software crossover. id rather just have a physical one, which i have, which should work fine. The sound card I have both has a knob, and a remote. do you run the sound blaster you showed me earlier, or a different one? im looking at running a Micro ATX slim case, which accepts an internal "low profile" card, such as the sound blaster audigy SE. would this work? looks like its 5.1, with sub/front/rear outs (1/8" of course) but thats still stereo right? never really thought about running a carpc, so im learning. i know running that external EQ just for a volume knob is dumb, so i will do as M5 said, get a knob, or as you said Jim, and use one on a soundcard, if the one i choose has a knob. will this setup be better? (using a software based EQ) and a knob from the soundcard, or to control windows volume.

i dont trust using a software crossover. id use the EQ, but like i said, i want a KNOB volume control, to control the master volume. i dont want to have to control it through the touchscreen or PC. i hate button volume controls. plus, i already have the coustic 3 way xover, paid like 45 bux i think new. im going to use it. lol

bump

they fit

would this work? or is this right?