CrazyKenKid

you need to talk to shizzzon!! he is the box design master! and he might tell you not to go WALL b/c you don't have enough port and you don't haven enough cubic space lol!!!

i would just e-mail jacob!

o no i mean you jsut visualy check the ground. follow the wire to where ever they have it grounded to. like jsut make sure it is a good connection you know. make sure they grinded the pain off. unless of course they hid the ground wire and you don't wnat to screw with it you know!

for sure check the voltage and make sure jsut to take a quick look at the ground and where and how they grounded it!

you siad "electric smell" seemed a bit more prevelant" the last time i smelled this kind a smell my buddy hooked up his amp wrong and fired like nearly all the mosfets on his amp lol. but also when the amp is hot you have an output still right?

also if the amp is TO HOT to touch there MIGHT be some internal damage to worry about. also how is the amp grounded? like did they grind off the paint to bare metal and mount the ground cable?

o wow that is pretty close to 4ohm so no wiring issue then lol we can rule that one out! umm next thing is jsut trial and errror i guess.. maybe see if the shop will swap you amps and see if the problem still happens and when you swap get like another brand jsut to rule out anything else, b/c if you got one bad amp you just MIGHT get another one, lol i know 2 in a row is rare but you never know! or borrow a friends who's i working well. also what kind of voltage are you getting to this amp? like turn on your vehicle and turn the music up some and jsut use your dmm and touch the power and ground of the amp and see what it reads!

if you are interested in batteries i got a piar of batcaps 2000's!! lol!

well chris or jacob didn't get a chances to get back to me. so i asked a SUPER good friend of mine who actual repairs amps and ask him for a braod outlook. I know he is on the forum somewhere but i don't recall his name. but he is super smart and without him i wouldn't be able to do this! so without further a-do! here is what i got and will be presenting! (plz refer to above pic) how an amp works 1. DC power in 2. Fets get a 50% duty square wave to pulse DC through the SMPS transformer 3. Input voltage is stepped up and rectified 4. Feed into the caps 5. Output fets switch the stepped up SMPS voltage with PWM audio 6. Output PWM audio is sent through a low pass filter having a LC setup( output caps and output inductors) 7. Then the output signal is then compared to the audio going in at the PWM chip extra info: • SMPS = Power supply transformer (lower 2 donuts) • Output Filter inductors (smaller donuts) • High voltage supply filter capacitors (4 black things in the center) • Output Filter capacitors (teal things in the top center) • Pulse DC from the fets turns on the SMPS, so transformers action can happen (magnetic Flux) • Full bridge rectifiers in the centre outside (4) before caps, 3pins (2-diodes) sharing a common anode • PWM = Pulse width modulation, rectangle chip with 14pins, also the brain of the SMPS again i can't say thankyou enough to him and all his help and also a big ty to denim for posting that link! it was a very good read! thanks everyone Kenneth

So in my electrical class my group and I are doing a project on MOSFET's and I will be bringing in some MOSFETS (blown and new) for some show and tell, then I wanted to bring in my amp (saz2000) and show that off but then I looked at the board and I was like umm maybe I should learn all the parts and how the amp works! so here is my amp's guts (i got the pic from another forum the saz2000 pre-sale one!) so here is what I understand (i hope i am not 100% wrong) on the far left and right sides those are the MOSFETS, the power supply are the 4 red coils, the caps are on the bottom center and top, the teal things I don't know (top center) the pre-amp is all that stuff at the top of the pic, (the signal processor and other things, can someone explain what all that is at the top) now for the real question is how are the MOSFETS wired? from what i understand the MOSFET act like a switch but how are they wired in and what do they do actual? (do they do the amplifying?) i know these are pretty basic question to most ppl but i just want to be sure when i am talking to the class about what is actually going on so i don't mess something up. so any help would be hot! thanks for any and all help Kenneth

lol you need more motor lol! how about one of those protype monter motors lol!! wouldn't that be a sight for sore eyes lol!

holy cow that looks sweet!! lol!! nice work!

X2 wiring issue! if something gets hot normally a wiring issue! lol! dmm time! either use a buddies or buy a cheap one!! and set it to ohm! and check each set of leads from the amp with the amp off!! and report back!

o wow great read! and very understandable!

why thankyou i will give that a read and see what i can figure out!

ya still no reply yet, i hope one comes before the 28th's though lol! if not i am going to wing it!!

so this is your sub correct? and you have 2 of these right? http://www.digitalstar.com/product/DB-DRIVE-PLW12D4-PLATINUM-SERIES-DUAL-SUBWOOFER-12-4-OHM.aspx and this is your amps right http://techronics.com/caraudio_8735_CRUNCH-PZI-1500-1-1500W-Max-PowerZone-Series-Monoblock-Amplifier.html?aff=72182 now you want to get a 3rd sub and you want to achieve a big boom (higher spl numbers in a show) and you are asking: 1. sub box design 2. amp selection (either 1-saz1500 or another crunch(3 total)) so with 3 12's d4 subs you can have an ohm load of 2.666 or 6ohm. so i guess you would want to run these at 2.66 ohms correct? now with a front face of 36inch long where will the port go as 3-12's = 36inch so you will have to offset these subs. anyways all that aside i would get a bigger rear battery say a knetik hc2000 as for the cap keep it! it can't hurt lol. the cap will smooth out the ripples and give you a cleaner power (near the end of the link) but do you need it NO, i consider a cap to be a glorified voltmeter lol!! now assuming you have enough room for a nice port for those 3-12's and enough cubic space for the box to fit and you have the electrical to back it all up lets move on!! now the tuning for your box will depend on your CAR'S resonant frequency which will help to determine your box's tuning! now keep in mind (this is how i look at it) a lower tuning (30 or less hz) you will Feel it more and if you have higher tuning (say 35-45) you will achieve a higher SPL number but these number will be different in every vehicle. so now that we determined a box tuning (kind of) onto your amp selection. if you put all 3 subs on 1-saz1500 you will be putting out less then 800 rms per sub (b/c it is more than 2ohms) so i would recommend getting 2 saz1500 or 2-sae1200's( 280 bnib each) but that will get costly. so maybe just pick up another crunch amp! and away you go! but with 3- amps you will be drawing something like 200amps (14volts at 3krms ISH) so a bigger battery would help out a lot and more AH for the win lol!

no problem man! and welcome to the SSA forums! it is a nice place to be with very knowledgeable ppl!!! it jsut takes some time for them to get back to you! also make sure to read the noob posting guide if you haven't so already!! it is a good read, and before asking question plz do some googling so you can bring something to the post!! and if you follow those simple rules you should be all set and no one will complain about you!!! ) and enjoy your stay! hey maybe make a pull!! enough or not enough power lol!! i find that way is much more effecient for getting someoens opinion most of the time they don't feel like posting but if you have something setup like a poll they will jsut say yes or no lol!! and that is easier to do then typing something out!

but i would wiat for someone else to chime in who has these subs, before you make your purchase!

shouldn't but if you plan on upgrading to something that can take more power! this is the subs you won right? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/12%22-SSA-DCON-12D4.html

sundown SAE 1200 (pre-order right now for 280 i think) better to have more then enough power if you ever want to upgrade! and for that price why not! lol! but that is just my 2cents! how much for the diamond audio amp? good deal? also i had buddy who had ones of these and i wasn't 2 impressed but the sub did the job and he was happy so who am i to complain! lol!! Diamond Audio 600.1 Number of Channels 1 - Mono RMS Power (4 ohms) 300 watts x 1 channel RMS Power (2 ohms) 450 watts x 1 channel RMS Power (1 ohm) 600 watts x 1 channel Bridged RMS Power Not Bridgeable Total RMS Power Output 600 watts Peak Power Output N/A Minimum Impedance Unbridged 1 ohm Minimum Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable THD at Rated RMS Power 0.05% Speaker Level Inputs No Preamp Outputs No Built-in Crossover N/A High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 210 Hz Subsonic Filter N/A Signal-to-Noise Ratio 90 dB Channel Separation N/A Bass Boost -18 - 18 dB ( 28 - 80 Hz) Bass/Gain Remote N/A Fan Cooled No Fuse Rating 35A x 2

4/0 for the win!

well would you look at that! those look nice and they don't cost that much either!! wow nice! ty

so my next question is how do you cut this stuff? i currently own a pair that can cut 2/0 but 4/0.... i don' t know. what do you guys use? (hack-saw)

nice ride!! and for daily system and those 2 1800 you should be jsut fine but make sure to buy a volt meter and keep an eye on those volts! llol! http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SVMB-VOLTMETER-BLUE-3-DIGIT-DIGITAL-DISPLAY-NEW_W0QQitemZ360194054151QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dd3d1807 or http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Stinger-SVMR-Digital-Volt-Display-Voltmeter-Red_W0QQitemZ120454340870QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0ba36106 i woudl suggest you use the RED one b/c at night time the blue is really bright!!! enjoy and good luck! and be sure to post a build log and some pics and a video if you can!!