CrazyKenKid

o wait you are using maxi fuses ya switch those out for starters lol! go with mini anl!!

well if your amp fuses are 90amps and your front fuse 100amp the 90amp fuses will blow first. did you hurt anythign i don't think so. and would a bad fuse at the front battery be an issue no b/c a fuse is blown or not and if it is blow it will be an open circuit

well the fuses on an amp will pop due to over current draw. so somehow your amp drew over 90amps of current! or the impedance of the amp dropped below 1ohm and caused it to draw more current. now you should have 12awg wire going from the amp to the box then from the bxo to the sub. don't have bigger speakre wire from the amp to the box then smaller inside. also keep in mind the fuses popped to PROTECT it right so if this happens again you should contact jacob and tell him what is going on.

Congrats!

what is going on here? 0.5 ohm load = No warrenty PLUS double the current flow so double the heat which will promot amp failure (not double the heat but you get the idea). also for a daily setup 1 or 2ohm is ideal. if you are planning on running 2 subs and want a daily setup just get d2 subs and get 2 saz2000 and wire them to a 2ohm load (1ohm load each per amp) if you are planning on running 2 subs and want a spl setup just get d1 subs and get 2 saz2000 and wire them to a 1ohm load (0.5ohm per amp) and only play it for short amouts of time. OR just get a 4500 or 3500 and run it at 1ohm load and get a pair of d1 subs (to get a 1ohm load) and if you double the cone and the power you will see a 6db gain compared to 1 15inch and 2krms! (in theory) also don't forget the electrical side of things, you need like 2 batteries at least with a nice alt! (90+ ah)

Until I close this thread you can. Since they are delayed the pre-sale may run longer. so if the 1200 giving out so much power how much the 1500 giving out 1970rms!

you are kind a right but more wrong! lol! in a series setup current will take the path of least resistance (easiest way it can, like students we cut corners all the time) so if you have a line and you have resister and you attach another piece of wire from just before the resistor to past the end of the resistor you will get no current flow though the resistor, this is called making a short! but in parellel current adds! and in series current is constant! sorry if this is came out really vague lol!

interesting i like your little design! and maybe if the encaps are hollow in side making slight adjustments will not make the owner take of the cap! so ilke if the ends are open or some kind a flap! but then agian i don't it iwll happen! but i never thought jacob would get rid of the 50.4 and nightshade v1!! or the sae1200v1 either! but hey who knows! lol!

350$ is already a killer deal. maybe try to e-mail him! [email protected]

that would be a cool idea. i have seen it before with other older amps and it looks pretty clean. although i don't remember the name of the older amp i seen it on lol!

nicely Done!

Interesting point! But also keep in mind that in a parallel circuit the current WILL DIVIDE UP based on the resistance! So each lead will show some value of current! in a parellel circuit we know that it=i1+i2+i3....(current total= current 1 + current 2 + current 3+ etc... so in our case Current total = Run1+Run2+Run3!)

o i guess i was thinking about the klmx! my bad wrogn stuff! but good to know!

Well you see keep in mind that knu use 5000plus strands b/c it is alumiun strands so they need more strands to compensate for the alum since copper is more superoir to alum...right...? so there are more strand to make up the difference or what is your take on that? My link

so knu 100% copper wiring was as big at 2/0 wire? but they don't sell any of the 100% stuff any more. it is all 90% alu and 10% copper...

and a good 0.02cents it is!! lol! and yes i agree with your statement!

O and this is your FIRST post! (he is a virgin) so i must say WELCOME to the Forums! this forum hosts some of the sharpest ppl in car audio today! welcome and enjoy your stay! lol and ask any and all question you have AS long as you read the noob posting guild first! and do some reseach before just asking! and google is your friend!

well here are my thoughts! multiple runs are more for burps, when u only have just the one batt under the hood, not any in the rear, so they can run like 14k off a little like kinetik 1400 for example. for a multiple battery setup it is just a waste of money. but if you are going the spl road doulbe it up!

umm yes..wire is wire...cooper is cooper! lol!

yes! to both questions! and for refer it is 4/0 not 0/4. i myself was corrected on this LITTLE technicality!!!

HURRY you have 20days the sae1200d v1 did 1770rms at 1ohm on 12.6volts! and the v2 is a befferies version! so it should do a bunch more!!

lol @ us, i am sorry for the thread jacking here buddy, yeah the tigs are sweet, but i usually am welding very heavy gauge steel, I am better at arc welding, it gives me a free hand to hold my beer. lol, jk. chop Hey i never thought of it like that!! lol!! and yes very sorry for thread jacking!!

for sure or tig welder is awesome! it is water cooled and it is very easy to use! hell i got a hard time welding with arc but tig is awesome!!

i might be guilty of over kill , but i am using 4 gauge for my speaker wire! lol. chop lol 4gauge lmoa! hell with 4 gauge you can power like 90amps at 1ohm is like 4krms lmoa!! over kill!!!! and how did you fit 4guage in a 8gauge push terminal? those little reducers or like trim the wire down A LOT lol

welding wire has a much weaker jacket and you have to be extra carefull when using it! like when you go though the firewall you have to use gromets and when going around sharp corners or rubbing spots you HAVE to tape them off or put something soft between the wire and the object. the car audio wiring cost more b/c it has a tougher jacket! Hey buddy......i got to speak up on that one..... that is not consistant with each brand of welding cable..... the 2/0 gauge welding cable that i have ran in the Dakota has a 1/8th" outer jacket and a 1/16th" inner jacket that is tough as nails.... being a Ironworker, I have had my fair share of welding cable in my hands over the past 13 yrs. we drag this cable, several hundred feet at times, acrosss steel, high in the air.....live! you can imagine if it were to cut and arc out, not a good thing. there is some "Billy Bad Ass" car audio cable out there, just the same, there is some welding cable that is top notch, in almost every senario , it will be cheaper, there is no mark up on it due to the car audio hype, some of this companies can sell audio equipment 230% mark up and they will get it for a while too! there is some good welding cable out there.... just fyi. okay , i got that all out there, lol. chop that cool! like i siad i never used it in car audio or in real life so it is all new to me! it is good you chimed in to clear that up though! i guess the only wire i am used to is the welding wire i used on my shops tig welder and that stuff o man you had to be careful with it!