CrazyKenKid

3500 1500 1200 lol enjoy!

yes sir! so if you go with sundown get 2-SAZ2000 and strap them! or some SAZ1500! if you get the d1 subs (2ohm load final) and if you get the d2 get a saz4500!! (1ohm load) o wiat you siad the d2 was some kickers say 650rms eahc hell jsut get a 3500 for 800! (1ohm load)

well 4 subs with d2 = 1 , 4 and d1= 0.5, 2, 8

okay well first what subs, what voice coil config

see in my pic above, the 1200 rms will divide up into the 2 subs and then divide again into each voice coil!!

look at it like this!

what about this one? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105AVX810/JVC-KW-AVX810.html?tp=20217&avf=N this one cna play DIVX you know those movies you get from say bit torrent he 700mb files? lol! plus a remote! or this http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105WAVX820/JVC-KW-AVX820.html?tp=20217&avf=N or there other brand! http://www.crutchfield.com/p_077DTS603W/Valor-DTS-603W.html?tp=20217&avf=N http://www.crutchfield.com/p_077DD858W/Valor-DD-858W.html?tp=20217&avf=N or http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020VX409/Clarion-VX409.html?tp=20217&avf=N i know you siad you are PICKY but common man! for that money you can get almost anythign to mathc what you like lol! plus shop on ebay for like 30-50% off deal!

o don't get me wrong with the other set of terminals on the amp you can hook up another sub SIMPLY it is just for simplicity! and conviences! since the 2 sets are hooked up in parellel internally to each other!

and yes a supper good plus is the h/u abilty to play dvd MP3 disks lol!! that helps otu b/c then you can burn a doulbe lay dvd (8.2gigs) of music!! and my single din h/u has this abilty along with f+r+s+c fill! so ya! http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_105KDAVX77/JVC-KD-AVX77.html?search=jvc+avx+77&ssi=0 i love this fully touch screeen single din and i can watch movies and everythign else it has listed plus yoou can change the background pic!!!

for sure shop around but if you got a FAKE sub channel...what good is it for subs?? the only kenwood i have owned is a dvd817 flipout h/u and it had f+r+s+c (front, rear,sub,centre) but it also had a processor unit sperate and i could have backup cam, and video in and the NATIVE IPOD was POS and never worked so i had no option other thne to use AUX!! so ya if that helps a little bit!

•outputs: A/V output, 4-channel preamp output (front, rear/subwoofer) wtff? why woudl they do that? maybe look else where into an jvc or alpine, or eclipse h/u!! but for sure it says rear/sub does that mean you can have either sub or rear fill only?

if you hook the subs in parellel to each other the VAC (voltage in a/c) will fall across ALL the subs in the parellel channel but if you hook it up in series you will get a voltage drop across each sub. make sense?

well mono amp refer to MONO=1CHANNEL you can run any number of sub off of a MONO BLOCK amp! the second set of plus and minus are just for simply hook ups! those are wire in PARELLEL internally! so if you wnat to run a d2 sub at 1ohm hook the 2 red terminals to the plus sign on the amp and the two black ones to the two neegative ones on the amp!! it makes life easier!

what do you mean by BUNNY HOP?? and you relize that the big 3 is just an ADD ON not a replacement right? and why would you let a SHOP do this simply 20mins job you can do yourself?? umm a h/u with windy/rumbling noise sounds like my old pioneer h/u which picked up some crazy alt wine, due to a blown pico fuse (who fuse a ground wire...go PIONEER) the quick mod he is refering to is only a PATCH isn't a fix at all. i did this "fix" to my h/u back in the day and i still had issues with it. the mod looks like this i believe, does it work! sure sometime but most of the time no! so just keep that in mind. i was fighting with my h/u for a good 2years before i finaly upgraded to a jvc avx77 and i never looked back!

question: how do you know that 2way comps isn't going to be loud enough? how much rms are you pushing in the rear? currenty all i have is a pair of zapco rb 13.2 (5.25) comps in my front doors fully deadened and amped to 100rms each! and i have 1-15inch sub on 2krms and i have no issue with them. as for your question "is the rated rms totaled between all speakers on each crossover" if you give the crossover the required rms you will be good! for my components my tweeters are rated for 100rms, my mids 60, and the crossovers are 160rms and rated required is 100rms! http://www.zapco.com/prod/Speakers/Reference/2_RB-13.2_Comp_Frame.htm

sounds like an inside job to me! like why would they go out of there way to tear a pic apart if they were after your car audio! i think your babe mama knows more then she is telling you!

well in your case you should order 5ft of red, 10ft of black to do the big 3 and one 1/0 fuse holder with a 250amp fuse. if you were to wire in a second or third battery you would have to purchase say 40ft of wire (20red 20black) depending on the length of your vehicle and the placement of the battery(s) and you would also have to purchase 2 fuse holders with 250amp fuses in them. and then a new mini anl for your amp or normal size anl if you are using something bigger then 4gauge wire. so total for the big 3 and secondary batteries is: 55ft of wire 4anl fuse holders with 3-250amp fuses and 1-xxxfuse (for your amp) some screws and some screw driver and away you go!!!

o also in the pic the 2 things in bottem almost center are 2 batteries! lol! also take some pics so we can see what you have for space!! and how clean everything looks!!! build logs are awesome!

Yes that is must (pos of alt to battery). let looks at it this way if for some odd reason the alt or battery outputs 300amps PLUS though the wire it WILL catch on fire and if you have flamable parts under your hook they will catch fire and your car will burn down and that wouldn't be good, and when the insurcance company finds out you didn't fuse some gay wire, which started the fire then you no longer are covered. so play it safe and buy a 10$ (i think it is 10) fuse hold and fuse that babe to play it safe! like my buddy says don't cheap on safty measures!! if you were to install a second battery you WILL need to fuse 12inch before the FRONT battery and 12inch before the REAR battery. so a total of 2 fuses is required for safetly. so all together for the big 3 15-20ft of 1/0 wire and 3fuse holders with 250amp fuses in them. Awesome start with what you will do!! this will help out a bunch! as for the battery you have listed i found this http://www.apexbattery.com/svr-svr33-12-scooter-battery-scooter-batteries-westco-scooter-batteries.html and http://www.aiconsol.com/svr33-12-mu-1sldm.html is this them? if so it say 33AH and 500cca. so i would suggest using both IF posible. b/c the more ah the better it will be. also they are 500cca so each battery can support a 500rms setup (in GENERALIZATION) also with both of them you could get 66ah whihc will be plenty for that amp which wants about 45ah (onboard fusing divided by 2 =45ah, this is alos another generalization i like to make) other then that i think you got a good build ahead of you! and feel free to ask any and all question! it is betterr to ask and ask then to mess up and be SOL (so out of luck ) and welcome to the SSA forums!! also here is a litle pic i made up a while ago when i was going through the same thing you are going though! it is good to visualize!

yes you can use the batteries ground as the negative for your amp! plus it is easier and you don't have to worry about the 3ft rule! (must have at least 3ft of ground wire to elimate noise/feedback) do you really NEED to use a fuse where? at the alt or 2 fuses inbetween the 2 batteries? please clearifiy which fuse you are refering to! (normaly fuses are a must for SAFETY) the cheap knu is acceptable b/c it has 54xx strands of wire to make up for the 90alumium. so for example if it was pur copper it would need SAY 4500 but since knu is using 90% alu to make up for the difference they added more strands and cut back some of the jacket which will make it more flexable! but the more expensive 1/0 wire is what i use b/c i BELIEVE (when i get it) it was 100% copper and nearly as big as 2/0 wire was! (but double the price) and i think for my big 3 upgrade i used around 20ft b/c i also have 2 other batteries int he back which also had to be grounded!

off topic.. Ken, why are you always yelling? lol reading through this made me crazy!!!1!!1 oh, and i vouch for KNU's wire. i love it; super flexable. yelling or making suggestions?,,,, lol!! if i was yelling it would look something like this WTF IS WRONG WITH YOU (also called flaming text!) lol naw i don't mean to come off yelling so if i did sorry everyone!! but Crazy is good!!!

well don't buy your wiring from a shop silly! i buy all my wire from KNU, i use this 1/0 wire http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Kolossus Fleks Kable and you can even use this one to save even more money http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=KLMX Kable and you can even use that one site called weldingsupplies.com or someting along those lines! if you wire another battery in your car i would suggest you do both neg and positve runs from the front to the back and ALSO ground the rear battery to the fram somewhere. so yes you will have a pos and neg run plus another negative run to the frame of your car. and since you are using another battery you can ground yrou amp off of that battery! but make sure your ground off of the rear battery is good!! make sure to disk off the paint put a nice screw in there!! lol!! and here is a quite video of how to do the big 3!! http://www.youtube.com/MaxxsonicsUSAInc#p/u/7/p82xRzCr-lc enjoy and take some pics and make a build log!! and no wire is wire just watchout for the price and the strand count! and what the wire is they are using! like either copper or alumium!

o also please check the ohms on the terminal from the box with a dmm to make sure a wire didn't come lose from one of your subs terminals! you can use a el-ccheapo dmm on the ohm setting to do this!

rule of thumb would state for the big 3 upgrade, use the biggest wire you can get your hands on most commonly ppl prefer to use 1/0 wire b/c it is relatively a decent price and 1/0 will work very nicely. i say go with 1/0 b/c it has the abilty to move the current need and then more! also the big may fix your lights from dimming so keep that in mind also! also a secondary battery would be ideal for any and all setups no matter the rms! the secondary battery will keep the volts up so you dont' kill your amp!! as for mini anl vs anl (normal the longer ones) i don't really know but an anl fuse is an anl fuse right? jsut mini anl is ideal for smaller gauge wiring where a big 300 amp fuse isn't needed! mini anl to keep it neat and tidy!

here you go! http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-44 and go with 100amp fuse!! or go with an 80amp fuse that way if this happens again(over current draw) the fuse in the wire will pop before the onboard fuse will pop! but if it poped due to low voltage then you have to look at this from a different veiw and also get in touch with jacob before doing anything to make sure you dont' void warrenty or anything of that nature.