CrazyKenKid

I posted up a poll!

so 2 ppl say go with the 50.4!! can i get a 3rd!

x2 Do i smell a build log? you smell correctly! llol! but this log isn't going to start till about some time after april (when school lets out for the summer)

Very true! words of the wise! lol!

good call!

these are not my words! i took them from another forum from a guy named Dukk, he explained it pretty well i thought so i thought i wuold share it on here! I'll offer this though. As I am sure you know, but others may not, a circuit breaker works by passing current through a strip of two metals laminated together that have different expansion rates when heated. Excess current heats the metals up, they deform in a predictable manner, and the gate is opened within the breaker. This is why a breaker often has to cool down a bit before it can be reset. In a fuse there is a strip of metal that is either riveted, welded, or soldered to the contacts. Excess current heats up the metal and it melts away, opening the circuit. If both items function as they should, they perform essentially the same function. Excess heat caused by excess current results in the circuit being opened. The difference is when they do not function as they should. In a breaker, there are a number of failure modes. The breaker could open as it should and then not re-close or in some other way the contacts are not reattached when closed. No biggie - replace the breaker. Being a mechanical device though, and generally installed in a harsh environment (under the hood) it is conceivable that the breaker could well fail closed. The mechanism could corrode or jam from dirt and debris. Even ice could physically keep the key from opening. The contacts could weld together when the breaker is set, or reset, if the instantaneous current draw is high. The bi-metal strip could delaminate or malfunction in another way and not deform properly, allowing the connection to continue when it should have opened. A fuse fails in one way, it melts away and opens. The only real failure mode is if it or it's contacts open unnecessarily. While a PITA, it is not threatening. It is impossible for a fuse to fail closed. Ultimately, this is superior protection. And why do people choose breakers anyway? Are you anticipating multiple events that will require re-setting of the circuit? I haven't changed a fuse in my car in 5 years. Why would I need a breaker? Oh..., maintenance? Just unhook the battery if that's what it takes. So, really, one could go on to argue that a breaker is only superior if one anticipates problems. If this is the case, that's poor design.

okay...but i though it was a pico fuse issue whihc is why you are getting a TON of feedback. an easy way to see if it the pico fuse is to buy one of these put it inbetween the amp and h/u rca's and if the noise is still there BAM it is a pico fuse! this is a ground loop isolator! and if you want i will sell you both of mine (whihc i don't use any more) for 20$ shipped! (since i live in canada shipping runs a little more) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=265-012%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&FTR=ground%20loop%20isolator&CFID=3534447&CFTOKEN=32936016 and if it is just a ground issue these isolators will get rid of it for you 100%! hands down! (or SHOULD) Thats pretty funny. Definately...positively...certainly...maybe...hopefully. ;p you like that!!!! lol!!

if it IS NOT the pico fuse this will solve your issue but if it IS the pico fuse these WILL NOT help. i used back int he day to help me narrow down my issue! turns out it was my pico fuse that blow on me!

okay...but i though it was a pico fuse issue whihc is why you are getting a TON of feedback. an easy way to see if it the pico fuse is to buy one of these put it inbetween the amp and h/u rca's and if the noise is still there BAM it is a pico fuse! this is a ground loop isolator! and if you want i will sell you both of mine (whihc i don't use any more) for 20$ shipped! (since i live in canada shipping runs a little more) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=265-012%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&FTR=ground%20loop%20isolator&CFID=3534447&CFTOKEN=32936016 and if it is just a ground issue these isolators will get rid of it for you 100%! hands down! (or SHOULD)

well 12gauge can support 40amps and at 1ohm that is like 1600wrms and at 2ohm that is 3200wrms so do you really think you need to upgrade it?

I personally dont see the need to go bigger than 8 gauge to be honest with ya, your fine with what you have now. X2 on that! for MOST application hell 12gauge or 10 is big enough! lol!!

ya same here but 90amps based off of that website! maybe those are old stats or something!

that is bullcrap! who ever installed it show stand up and take the hit! call them out on it in a nice way! and go from there. then call pioneer and tell them what is going on and maybe they can help you out if the shop will not!

so someone told you that 4 gauge wire is over kill for speaker wiring= this is correct! and they also told you that is bad b/c of too much resistance=WRONG think about it they are telling you that bigger gauge wire has MORE resistance then smaller wire....so why do we use 1/0 wire then, well we use it for the current flow and LOW resistance! as you can see in this table the resistance is listed per 1000ft!! http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm as you can see 4 gauge is 0.248/1000ft and 8 gauge is 0.628. so 8 gauge has double the resistance then 4gauge does at 1000ft!! as for 4gauge being WAY overkill look at it like this! 8gauge can handle 90amps (on the above link) which is about 8krms at 1ohm load (depending on the length but generally speaking) 4 gauge can handle 135amps (on the above link) which is about 18000rms at 1ohm load again! (and depending on length) so unless you are tossing around 18krms at your sub then 4gauge is the way for you! and yes it never hurts to have over kill!!

good to hear your amp is working agian!!

hey i got some time to help out! soo let narrow it down as of to what you are looking for! and please feel free to add to this list! remote 4volt pre-outs pre-outs of F/R/S native ipod sat and hd radio eq security lock how the cd goes in (flips the screen down) multiple available colors to pick from bright screen navigation (if you get lost) duel zone dvd mp3 600$ double din! did i miss anything?

hey i found the thread!! take a look at the youtube movie does your sub make that noise?

welcome to the thread!! and you know what it hink a kid on here a similar issue with a sae1200 amp. it turns out he had a blown zener diode! i will look to see if i can find the thread! he even made a movie!!

i also used to own a DEH-P800PRS then i blow teh pico fuse then all hell broke loose! i ended up living with the blown fuse for about 2years before i got my new jvc h/u and i never looked back!! the 16bar eq is quite nice and the strong pre-outs also helped out! but towards the end of that h/u i started to have issues with it where i would have to push my face place back on during operation as the screen would cut out. keep in mind the h/u will fold down to accept a disk so constant movement will played a part on my h/u! or maybe i just got a bad h/u lol!

ohm loads are fun!!! in series ohm will add and in parrellel the ohm will drop!! check out this calculator!! http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp and here is a gain setting chart when you get ready to set you amp(s) with a dmm!

if memory serves which it does since i am getting old now (21years old lol ) if you don't disconnect the neg lead of the battery while installing ANY pioneer h/u yuo will blow the PIC fuse whihc is located on the ground wire! and if you ground this h/u to the harness and NOT the cars chassie this could also play a part. and i heard one time this was due to having HOT rca's, which I THINK (i am most likey wrong) if you have used your rca in ilke the past hour and had current(voltage watever) going in them then hooked them up to the new h/u they will also kill the pico fuse! and as far as i have heard this is for most pioneer h/u but more common on the pioneer 880 (my old h/u) and some model ending in usb. but ya that is just what i HEARD and i am 100% on those reason! but i am sure someone knows more about this! but basically if you didn't install this and they did install it is 100% there fault and they should by right (law maybe?) replace it free of charge for you! it woudlnt' be that hard to replace it as the wires and rca are already run,! all they woudl have to do is pull the h/u out with those little steel pieces and do a swap! then send it to pioneer to get the 40-80 fix! but don't let them tkae you for a fool!!! it is your money not there and if they mess up they should fix it right!!!

hey now you let me in on your phy! lol! i will take a look later on tonight and see what i can dig up regarding what you are after!! but i don't' know man ever since i got a JVC i never looked back!!! as for 2 or 4volt pre-outs all that means is you have to turn your gains up more! unless you get one of those things which boose the rca voltage...but i don't remember the name of it off hand i know rockford makes one. but ya i got to run to work and tomorrow i will take a peek and see what i can find ofr you! i know that my jvc has AMAZING IPOD controls and very easy to switch from ipod lock to ipod not being locked if you know what i mean! ilke 1 button press!! simple! but that is just my 1single din h/u that i have which is n't what you want b/c you want a double din!! for me looking for a single din was so hard b/c i wanted almost all the things you want but in a single din! and i got lucky enough to find nearly ALL of them lol!!! but that was just me! i will help you look some tomorrow after school if i get some time!

well 2000rms at 1ohm plus another 2000rms at 1ohm= 4000rms at 2ohm! 4000rms at 2ohm divided amung 4 subs with a 2ohm final load = 1000rms each sub! as for strapping them that is simple to do!

well your setup is in your truck right? so you are already in a small ass cabin and in a truck it will get stupid loud lol! so maybe go get some icons 1 or 2 depending on your AMP selection! just because i don't care for RE or kicker and i haven't heard a DC yet or RD (10's that is)

go with what is cheaper!! b/c 200rms is't going to be much on the ear! the only neg is with the 1200 you will be drawing more currnet draw (more power) lol!