CrazyKenKid

and where abouts is HERE?

that is a good excuse lol!

o wow for only 150$ this sound like everyone would need one! i woudl love to see some inital testing! to see how it fairs it out!

i would say get the battery bank going first and wire in a volt-meter and keep an eye on those batteries voltages and go from there! for the longest time i have been running 2-batcap 2000's with no h/o supporting a saz2000 and 1-15inch NS v1 with minium issues, till my alt and starter both had a heart attach!! lol then i just replaced my alt with a h/o and called it go! so for my 2krms setup in a daily driver (allowing the stock alt to charge them over the time when i am not playing full tilt) a h/o was nessicary but it helps

SAZ 2000 for 475 used! does about 2500rms! saz1500 does about 1850rms for about 350used sae1200v1 or v2 does 1770 rms for 250bnib! lol! go sundown! awesome prices and outstanding customer service!

Matt, Let me say Welcome to the thread! and enjoy your stay! now will your stang make enough power to support the current draw of 1500rms plus a 4channel amp? i say it will be close! to better help you out i would recommend getting another battery and wiring it in parellel to the existing battery! as for a battery to get maybe look into a kinetik hc1400,1800,2000 or 2400 (2400for kicks) I prefer a cap over a battery, b/c here is how i look at it, a cap is a mini battery (in my opinion) and they will get drianed a lot faster due to there small reserves and will need to be charged up again and they cost about the same amout of money as another battery cost, so why not just put the money towards something that will help you out even more! also give this link a good read and you decide for yourself!

Go JVC!!! i used to own a pioneer and ever since i switched to my jvc i loved it and never looked back! so i vote for JVC based on my past experience with the pioneer (880) and the new one jvc (avx77) i know you aer asking about a double din and both of mine are single din's! i hope that helps SOME.

looks nice!! and x2 you should bench it! or send ti away to get benched! (to me lol jk)

h/u is a h/u! lol! well kind a. i never heard of a h/u designed specifically for spl! but i could be wrong!

damn man!! nice work! and 700 holes on a bridgeport brings back good memories lol!! the only advantage i had on you was my bridgeport was cnc controlled lol!!

what about the SAZ2000? or SAZ 3500? or SAZ3000. is there is a specific reason WHY you want to know this? like are these the 3 amps you cna get for a good price? and btw sundown> all others

well we don't know who this is and we don't know if this box would fit in your car b/c we don't know what you drive! so i found this COOL calculator so you can mod the box to your likings! http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html so simple input the diminsions you have availble in INCHES (so you have to convert from cm or mm which ever you are using) and go from there!! you see you can ask a specific question but unless we know who this is only he can say!!

for sure you never kow till you get it all bumping!!! but it is critical to keep an eye on the voltage! so get a voltmeter and wire it up in parellel and never go below 12 or you will risk killing your amp! and don't forget to fuse! lol! here is the voltmeter i own, i got it off of ebay for about 20$ about 1year ago http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SVMB-VOLTMETER-BLUE-3-DIGIT-DIGITAL-DISPLAY-NEW_W0QQitemZ360194054151QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dd3d1807 and welcome to the thread and be sure to post a build log!! and enjoy your stay!

also any sub with any power output will be able to push ANY subs! it isn't like well there isn't enough power so the setup isn't going to work lol!! it might not be much of an output but it will work lol! and of course this all depend on the sub(s). like if you get 4 12'inch subs which want 300rms each, then 300rms x 4=1200rms required!

First things first! welcome to the forums! please give the noob posting guide a quick read! NOW you say your buddy told you to push 1200rms on 4-12inch subs? yes you can do this but what subs and what coil config! you need to give us information befoer we can help!

okay lets start over! Hi my name is Kenneth and i am a Canadian! I like beer and i live in an iglue and i have a friend who is a polar bear! lol jk! anyways you are..... and welcome to the SSA forums!! Now you want to build a box for a sa-12 and you found a pic that you like and you would like some help! you also asked about ported vs. a sealed box! I look at it like this go ported to get loud and shake stuff and go sealed (no slot) to achieve a higher SQ (sound quality). so whihc car is this going into and what have you done regarding a power upgrade? the big 3, extra batteries, h/o alt (high output alternator) and i think for that sub the specs are 1.75 ft^3 ported tuned to 30 Hz 1.75 ft³ = 49554.481 cm³ and 1.00 ft^3 sealed 1.00 ft³ = 28316.846 cm³ http://sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/sa-series-12.html so lets start over! and whatever i didn't answer please restate your question! and here is the site i used to convert http://www.metric-conversions.org/volume/cubic-feet-to-cubic-centimeters.htm

Well i need some help choosing my next amp! here is my future application, 2-15inch NS v1 (already purchased) 2-saz2000(1 of 2 purchased) 1-ID horns 2-nsb 90's big 3 h/o alt (200amp) Now my question is either the 50.4 or the 125.2! I need some help deciding. both amps have pluses and i am leaning towards the 50.4. So here are the immediate plus i see: 50.4, future application due to the 4channels and resell able 50W x 4CH RMS 4 ohm stereo 80W x 4CH RMS 2 ohm stereo 160W x 2CH 4 ohm bridged 125.2 more power, less $20 lol 125 watts x2 @ 4 ohms 200 watts x2 @ 2 ohms 400 watts x1 @ 4 ohms bridged Now for the question which would you choose to power a pair of ID Horns?? I am leaning towards the 50.4 b/c if i ever take out my 2-15inch subs i will need a 4channel amp to power all of my speakers and if i ever need to upgrade i would be able to sell a 50.4 a little easier than the 125.2. I don't see any pluses other the 20$ price differences? so in a nut shell which one and why for a pair of ID Horns? thanks for your time and input! p/s i have the money ready to purchase either of them Kenneth

I just got a reply back from Jacob regarding the 100.4 and using it to power the horns and a midbass driver! here was his reply! Yes it can bandpass one set of channels and high pass the other -- no problem. Use the subsonic as the HPF portion of the band-pass. - Jacob so problem solved and thanks for everyone input! esspecially Lucky 76

issue solved! thankyou SOOOO much lucky 76! i was lucky you were on to help me out and to see another option i didnt' even think about!! you rock man! thanks so much!! and thread closed BTW!!

so what you are saying is if i was going to run a 100.4 and a pair of horns/mids the 100.4 would be ideal? b/c i would be able to use the very nice crossover that the 100.4 has?

i thikn you are trying to convince me to go with a 125.2.... lol!! but here is another idea with the horns i need a pair of midbass (as i just found out lol )) so if use the 50.4 i could use 50rms to the mids and 50rms to the components! lol! but i would ahve to find an active crossover you say. any suggestions off hand?

i think i may just do that! thanks for your input!! as for setup i think i want to run active and jsut set my amp to handle everything that way i don't have to worry about cross overs and i believe the 50.4 has some killer feature i can set!

Hey i just noticed something about the ID Horns they are 8ohm and 30-40rms! wow! http://www.woofersetc.com/p5004/CD1MH-V3--Image-Dynamics-Reduced-Size-Mini-Horns.htm so this 50.4 can do 160rms @4ohm 2channel bridged right so at 8ohm what can i expect 80rms? so 40rms to each horn? does that make sense or should i jsut drop jacob an e-mail?

is bridging bad? or just complicated?

Nice! and does the E stand for anything like economy line? or just E as in SA'E'