CrazyKenKid

the one on ebay is his name ibander or something like that? if so he is a member of this forum and he is very nice to talk to! jsut drop him a message

i have heard that the higher the voltage on the preout rca is the LOW you set your gain on the amplier, thus meaning the amp has to work a lot less harder. BUT also keep in mind if you EVER measure your voltage at the rca it will ALWAYS be super low. like my h/u is rated at 5volts and i only see around 1.5volts. also something else i have heard is the higher the voltage the better the sound sq will be b/c the higher voltage resists noise... but i am 100% sure on that stuff it is jsut what i have heard. BUT from my own experience going from a 2v to a 6v and then back to 5v from 2v to 6v i noticed a difference then from 6v-5v i didn't hear anything dramatic! so i hope that helps! and i am sure someone will be on here soon to bash what i have said! ;o!

ya some nights i am slow! it happens lol! and i also jsut relized he said 2.2 cubic INCHES lol! i guess i was thinking cubic feet lol!! thanks for the correction though! Well it's just pi*r^2 * length, which for a 3/8" rod about 20" long is only 2.2 cubic inches. I don't think you'd notice that in the sound, haha. ? 20" = 20 feet? lol that is alot of rod! the max i will need is about 11.75 which is about 0.00075 ^3 lol as for the wood idea as a brace i am worried b/c right now my box is about 6.1~ at bestat about 40hz (not build yet but soon to be) so with wood i fear it would be to much and i would lose out on cubic volume. but will a flat head screw pull though the mdf? keep in mind the head is on a taper so it has a lot of surface area. o well i will keep playing with the idea! 20" = 20 inches 20' = 20 feet

Heys guys I will be building my sub box for 2-15inch NS subs come this summer and I had a quick question. first of all here is my box. see how the subs are firing DOWN and the full weight of the subs is on that one board, well i am going to need to support that board somehow. The 2 subs weight about 60~lb's each so 120lbs total will need to be supported. a friend told me to just use a piece of wood (dowel) and screw it from both ends and then glue it and not worry about it. but then i started to think over time due to vibration and temperature change would the screws start to lose their grip and potential come out or something of that nature? so i thought about threaded rod and some flat head screws to do the job!! take a look at the pic and let me know what you guys thing of it as you can see with the use of flat head screws and some threaded rod couplers (hex nuts) (the green things) i think that would be a better idea and i can even use 3/8 (0.375") thread rod as it is load rating is around 600lb's here is what the coupler will look like and screws

Well it's just pi*r^2 * length, which for a 3/8" rod about 20" long is only 2.2 cubic inches. I don't think you'd notice that in the sound, haha. ? 20" = 20 feet? lol that is alot of rod! the max i will need is about 11.75 which is about 0.00075 ^3 lol as for the wood idea as a brace i am worried b/c right now my box is about 6.1~ at bestat about 40hz (not build yet but soon to be) so with wood i fear it would be to much and i would lose out on cubic volume. but will a flat head screw pull though the mdf? keep in mind the head is on a taper so it has a lot of surface area. o well i will keep playing with the idea!

yes a few things i forgot! lock washers locktite and cross threading! (cross threading is almost as good as contact cement or welding LMAO jk) and i think i will play around with that baffle idea!! and thanks everyone for your suggestions! they are awesome!!! Kenneth

i guess i should have included this pic also and yes dirty rag-= db's

um washers and nuts...what would ahppen if the bass hit and moved the rod and the road fell down? this is why i wanted the 2-flat head screws at the top to hold it in place, and to HOLD it together? plus it has to be flush with the surface fo the mdf as this will be goign into my trunk so if there any extrusion i am screwed

wow! what are those for? trophies? lol!! jk! NICE scrore though! congrats

np man! glad we could help out!!! and we all get a little confused once in awhile!

remember you are NOT bridging the SUB you are hooking the sub in parellel to DROP the ohm load!

well if you have a mono amp with 2-set of output terminals jsut hook the positive leads and negatives leads to the amp, since internally it is in parellel already.

umm hook the positives up the postives and the negatives up to the negatives, then branch off to the amp? whihc amp are you using? is it a mono block amp? if so does it have 2 sets of input terminals?

nice!! i love the clean install!! and yes jay-cee knew what i was getting at!! but don't worry about my question i am just crazy lol

lol well make sure you get it before someone else does! and just incase you were wondering you cna use a dmm to set yoru gain but BUT the dmm can't tell you visual when your amp is clipping. it only tells you the output voltage (a/c output voltage to the sub that is)

i wonder if those oscopes are HOT b/c they normaly go for a lot more money you know!

o and the big one isn't THAT big, maybe 15x15x5 inch lol! they aer about 15-20lb also. but liek i say i notice they are more accurate and easier to use. whenever i am using and oscope i always go for the bigger ones!

o you can buy them on ebay for ~10ish they aren't expensive. jsut it is another item you haev to buy. and yes we or I can help you out in setting your gain it is pretty simple to do.!. well i shoudlnt' say simple lol but once you do it it all good!

O hey guys i was just talking to a maintenance guy, who deals with those things used to clean floors in a mall, they use water to clean the floors and what not, and sorry I don’t know the name of the machine. Apparently they run on these huge batteries (300ah) which are 6volt and are made to completely discharge and recharge up. i asked him about batteries on concrete and he SAID if left on concrete they WILL dissipate, but over the course of a 1-2years at a time, the older the battery the more acceptable it is to this old wise tail!! So that is what he said but I like to play it safe and just put some wood under my batteries which are in my garage. and OP NICE work! looks like it is comming along very nicely!

and the big one has 2channel input (it looks like) and hte smaller one looks to have just 1channel input. also from my experience the big one is more accurate and responsive then the hand held ones(smaller ones) liek with the smaller one there tends to be a bit of a delay but they both operate the same way. we don't have the smaller ones in our lab our hand held ones a a few version newer then that one (the smaler one)

and yes to set your gain via oscope is the best so you can see at what point the amp will clip at! (give you a square wave)

I have used the BIG one in the past in my electronics labs! they aer awesome but some of the aer junk b/c the kids don't know how to use them and break stuff. but make sure he includes probes! at least 10x probes!

5krms at 2ohm! i must say and doors open! impressive! but for a 21inch sub (whihc i am unformilar with) with neo what is expect? (i am not trying to be douch just wondering)

also how much power? did you clamp this? also 12v's right?

you need to post some pics of the ride!! (or a link to your install i want to see)