CrazyKenKid

o wow it is the king of bus bars lol!! with plenty of holes! (swiss cheese lol jk) NIce work!

aww i c! well if all goes well maybe i could be your new supplier lol!! but we will see how things pan out for me.

o i c! I am sorry for the confusion. but when you bring the multi insert block back to the front of the table shoot me plug or post it on this thread!! but that distro block looks awesome!

o hey that is kind a wierd lol, for some odd reason i though there would only be ONE output which woudl be made of a piece of alum which would stick into the amp. soo multiple inputs and only 1 output (kind a like how my pic looks on my first post) o well no worries it is a good idea for a huge distro lol! and I love the idea of mini anl and normal anl!

okay i will wiat for your drawing lol!! i was going to draw your idea but i wouldn't do it justice so i will leave that to you lol!! but for sure that is a BIG chunk of alum! lol!

i think a rating of 1000amp's is ideal, for pricing i would try to keep it at 40-50/ set! but now you have to ask yourself what does it cost material and YOUR TIME to make them lol!! also i AM DIEING to see a PIC of these..maybe just a quick scetchup idea? like right now i image it looks like a block with x inputs and has x output to the amp. but i would like to see your idea..if you could do a quick scetch and MAYBE if possible toss some dimensions in there! also i dont' know if you siad but what material are you making this of? copper? alum?

wow that is awesome nearly 150db with 2 of those subs lol! how much power did you toss at those 2 subs? 3000rms total yet?

hey man I would stick with the saz1500 if i were you!! hell it can do 1970 rms at ideal conditions lol!! (12.8volts) Uniform Amp Clamp Test - SSA Car Audio Forum but if you REALLY want more power you could always look into the saz2000 or 2500!! and once the 2500 hit the shelf I imagine ppl will want to sell there saz 2000's to upgrade to the 2500!! but seriously you already have the 1500 so just roll with that!

congrats! and I also helped out!! but I only helped out b/c of your good name and rep! keep up the hard work and your company will continue to grow!! hell if you can grow in an economy slummp then you are doing really good!

only a 150 amp fuse? with a 150 amp fusing you are limiting your system to 1800-2000watts? also when fusing batteries i am pretty sure you should fuse to the wires capabilty!! so if your wire can supoort 300amps then fuse it at 300amps! as for battery placement i would put them in the back! keep the runs as short as you can from battery to amp! also why no second run (negative run) of wire from front battery to rear battery? i am pretty sure kinetik recommends a run of + and - from front to back! as to fusing the amps if they have a 150amps of fusing on them use a 150 amp fuse also (to be safe) although some ppl will say fusing a fuse is usless lol if you get my drift.

so what you are telling me is you stole my idea and are trying to make money off of it? lol!! jk i already give this idea some though and i would be selling them pending a protype but only once after i return to the tool shop in march lol! here is my design? mine has 2 wirings which will be feed directly in and the tired in with set screws! but i like your idea too! and and i would be interested in about 6 sets of these or more let me tlk to some ppl when i see a price!! basically if you can make them for a good price i am not going to waste my time lol!

lmao i completely forgot about that lol!!! time to hound Nick about them again lol!! and if they are as he promissed watch out jacob from some compition loL!

hey don't these sub have a neo magnet in them?

That really depends. Many amps that put out maximum power at 4 ohms bridged are class A/B amps, which are definitely not easier on the car's electrical than a 1 ohm stable class D amp. A class D amp that would put out max power at 4 ohms would likely have a regulated power supply, which is arguably also worse on the electrical system. aww i c!! thanks for correcting me!! I will keep that in mind next time someone asked me about 4ohm vs 1ohm!!! thanks agian

umm 4ohm would be easier on your car's electrical!! as for SQ ohm load isn't noticalbe.. lol sorry i was a bit late on my reply! you are fast Duran lol!

the audio pipe 3000 isn't 1ohm stable. it is basically 2 1500 inside one big ass case! so 3000rms at 2ohm. my buddy has 2 of those AP 3000 and he has shown me the manual where it states it!

and if you are looking to buy one you can contact jacob about the amp and he can see what he can do!! there are a few ppl, me included, who wouldn't mind upgrading our saz2000's to a saz2500 so once the saz2500 there should be a few 2000's floating around! keep your eyes open! you will see

hey i don't know if you have seen this chart before but here you go! I seen this chart maybe a year ago and when nathan mensioned something about a chart i though of this one! and here is the original link! http://www.4xspower.com/downloadables/xspower_flyer-left.jpg

o hey you are right lol! right in the title lol! sorry about that

nice site!! for my next setup (5krms MAX so on burps) it recoomends 3-1800 batteries!!! it is a simple calculator i like it! and it is fast!

hey man the ah is kind a myth unless you are going to play car off! anyways here is some info for you!! http://www.youtube.com/MaxxsonicsUSAInc#p/u/3/H5MP5F-uJAw here is one about alts http://www.youtube.com/MaxxsonicsUSAInc#p/u/2/Fv66sP9EXvQ and here is one of the all important BIG 3 http://www.youtube.com/MaxxsonicsUSAInc#p/u/1/p82xRzCr-lc also those tracker batteries you speak of... i asume they are 12volts right and not 24 or 6 or something other then 12 right?

yes problem solved!! congrats!

damn dude! NICE!! and it looksl ike you got a pair of his sp1700 batteries also!! congrats! build log on the way i assume?

Hey you mension the nsb75..i was just wondering why? also what are your thoughts on the nsb90? (yes i own a pair but haven't been using them to much due to school and garbage weather lol! These links are from old outdated threads, and as a competitor myself, I would not recommend using the PC1750 for SPL purposes. For street A, I would recommend the 2010 XS Power D2700 or NSB75. Also, the Deka batteries are made fom recycled lead which is great for the environment, and allows them to be produced very inexpensively. The trade off is life expectancy, and retension of performance over time... I would expect about 1 year of good use out of them in a high amperage car audio application, and would certainly not recommend them for competition.

hey man here is what i have to offer! my last setup was 1-interstate (not sure the specs green top though) 2-batcap 2000's in the rear. the resting voltage was about 13.22~ and they have a super small reserve and are VERY ideal for burps as they are able to dissapate at a high rate. but for daily (anything over 3mins car off) i wouldn't recommended them. my new setup is 1-interstate (under the hood) and 2-nsb90's in the rear!! DAMN heavy batteries(85lb's i believe), they float at 12.88v and ONLY costed me 260CANADIAN Each, so in the states you can most likey get them for much better of a deal (here are the specs on them) http://www.battery-usa.com/Catalog/NSB90.pdf they are darn good batteries with a nice reserve on them and they get the job done! on full tilt car ON i can't get them below 13.3volts, right now i am only pushing 2krms (saz2000) and a h/o (200amp) 1 nsb90 and yes the big 3 is done. my next setup will involve 2-nsb90's and 2-saz2000's! so i can give you a better review when the nicer weather comes out! lol!! enjoy