CrazyKenKid

back stop... do you mean a RING behind the speaker it self? and also WHY do you wnat to add volume if you have crap speakres and if they are crap why bother amping them? now if you have 2-sets of speaker so 4 speaker total hooked up to a 2channel amp you would have 2-speaker per channel and since both speakers are single 4ohm coils they would be hooked up in parrellel so the ohm load would drop to 2ohm per channel! but depending on how you set it up you would lose either your fade or L/R balance umm i thikn that is what you are asking.... if not pplease restat!

fixed? congrats!!! and good luck with the next setup!

umm the night shade V1 are discontinued... so i ASSUME you already have one and wnat to get a recone BUT with more spiders! correct? anyways here is some help SPIDER Everyone familiar with a speaker has seen the flexible corrugated woven material that exists just below the cone. This is the spider, which is a part of the speaker that helps maintain linear movement of the voice coil. This maintains control over the entire cone movement. Spiders are generally made of cotton, poly-cotton blend, or conex. They also come in a variety of sizes. However, the major difference between spiders is the number of corrugations, meaning the valleys and peaks, and the heights of these. This is important because some speakers have longer throw than others. The wrong spec spider has the potential to break down quickly and create "spider sag." That can greatly affect the sound quality of your speaker. i STOLE this from here: please read and i give FULL credit to this site! Anatomy of the Subwoofer (cont.) - Features - Features - Car Audio and Electronics

and yes 2 fuses on each positive run to besafe b/c either battery could short out and toss 5kAMP through the wire and burn it up and start a fire! so to be safe rather then sorry toss 1 fuse in on each end of both runs = 4 fuses total!

remember though the fuse from the second battery to the amp aren't needed but other say they are! that is just my view on it! my thinking is if the amp has a 300amps of fusing on it and if your wire is rated for 300amps of current the fuses on the amp will blow first cutting the power draw so all the current in the wire will be gone once the fuses on the amp blow. so no need to double fuse! now if those fuses fail lol Then there is the potential of 300amps of current in you wire at one time and current makes heat and heat could melt the wires jacket leading to a fire! hench why some ppl like to double fuse!! but someone once told me the more fuses you use the less conductivity (or something like that) you will have leading to less power..!... sorry i don't realy know the idea behind fusing the wire to an amp if the amp already has fuses on it! the idea behind fuses is to protect the amp if the battery shorts out and to protect your car... actually somebudy from this site had a kinetik hc1400-1800.. and it internally shorted out it was nassty!!! i wish i could find the link!

o 1 more thing use 2 fuse on each + run! 1 fuse within 12inch of each battery! to be safe! and since you are using fuses i assume you want to be safe and not burn down you car lol!

yes for the ring terminals! now for fusing,, i didn't quite understand (b/c i am slow) but never fuse a ground wire! when fusing between batteries FUSE to the WIRES limits! for example i have the KNU klossus wiring and it is RATED for 300amps, so the fuse i use in that one is 300amps! when going from a battery to an amp: a) if the amp has fusing on it don't worry about it aii) some ppl like to be double safe so fuse to the amp, IE if the amp has 100amps of fusing on it use a 100amp fuse on the line going from battery to amp b) if the amp has NO fusing ON board fuse to the recommendated fusing! IE my saz2000 it is recommended to fuse it with a 200amp fuse! remember from battery to battery fuse to the wires limits! no need to restrict valuable current! Make sense?

i say battery!! b/c if it was the alt your car wouldn't go from 9 then back up to 12! but more times then not i maybe a combination of both of them. also check your belt and did you pop open the hood and check the battery out yet for a swell or crack or something out of the ordinary

wow sounds like it is going to be a killer setup!! i like it! i can't wait for the build log!!! 2-12's on 3500-4000rms!! lol. the only thing i suggest you do is the BIG 3!! and then you will be good to go!!

why? price? personal peferance?

with a 300amp alt you should be good! I was supporting a 2krms setup with a 120amp (OME alt) with 2-batcap 2000 (50AH SUPER small batteries 6.5x7x6) http://www.batcap.net/Products/BatCapProductLine/BatCap2000ElectricCarBattery/tabid/89/Default.aspx and it had no issue plus right now i plan on running a 5krms on a 200amp h/o ALT. the ONLY reason why i upgraded my alt is b/c my OME one was 6years old and starting to give the ghost lol plus my next setup will need a little more beef lol! and you are welcome! glad i could help with some insight, a little more info i will be running 2-nsb90 2-saz2000(or 2500 we will see) 2-NS 15inch d2 subs 2- Positive runs from front to rear 1- h/o alt (200amp alt) big 3 in 1/0

so you wnat to blast your car all day long at a comp i assume with the car on or with a battery charger right? umm as for AH first lets look at the definition Ampere-hour(s): A measure of battery capacity. A 4Ah battery could, for instance, deliver 1A for 4 hours, 1/2A for 8 hours, etc. keep in mind ppl like to use around 150-300amp( 1500-3000rms~) setups so for extended periods of time having a boat load of batteries or a simple charging unit on the batteries is ideal! so with that being said the more AH the long you can use your batteries with the car off and no charger... this is only safe if you keeping an eye on your voltage meter! but if you have a alt (car on) or battery charger constantly charging up the front/read batteries ah is THAT important, although ppl i talk to tend to think otherwise! plus with the battery in the front and battery in the rear the AH adds up! also the require AH is roughly half the amout of require fusing for your amp! for example my SAZ2000 requires a 200amp fuse so i need at least 100AH to run that amp with the car off for any extended amount of time! but with the car on (charging it up) i will not need that much AH to support the amp! does this help some..if not i got a few information video's i can share about AH and batteries and what not!

is this what you aer looking for? if so send me a p/m i will send you a better quality pic! 2-channel 35rms @ 4ohm / channel 45rms @ 2ohm/ channel 90rms @ 4ohm Bridged p/s input 10.5-16v lol

good point! my o my you are a quick one!! but this also doesn't look very good for a line driver lol! so what you trying to tell him is if there are 6billion ppl on the Earth only about 60,000 people actualy need one of these inventions? lol! i like Less ppl then that need them lol! 6 billion people aren't into car audio though.

go XS for sure!! there are some rumor floating around about a kinetik battery, if you charge them over 14.4volts there life spans will deteriate, but others will say otherwise!

lol i think i need one now lol!!! (a RF line driver ) sales man by chances?

It is a true and false statement at the same time. A lot of people use secondary batteries with there systems without it affecting there alternators. It will come down to listening habits and how hard you discharge the batteries and so on, if you slam hard all day long then yes it is true and investing in a battery charger would be feasible to take some strain off your alternator. A second battery will be useful whether car is on or off if you need the power, power makes power (no way around that). power makes power!! i like that statement lol!!

to me that statement is false, provided your stock alt is 50amps + BUT it is also a true statement as it does make the alt work harder ALSO my alt went bad after 5-6years of charging 2-3batteries at a time (stock 125amp alt) so on the long run yes if your alt is stock AND a pile!

so what you trying to tell him is if there are 6billion ppl on the Earth only about 60,000 people actualy need one of these inventions? lol! i like Less ppl then that need them lol!

hey i had a buddy with one, past tense, and he regrets ever spending th 50-60$ on it.!. but if you really need one they go inbetween the inputs of the amp and the h/u you hook them up to a +12 sources you set the gain on them for say 5volts and then set the gain on your amp accordingly they only say to keep it as close as posible so you keep the integrity of the signal strengh, as the run gets longer there is more of a changes of interferance and noise and blah blah so to get the best quality signal keep it close... does it matter if you put it 10ft or 10inch from the h/u for my buddy's setup NO, he also DID NOT need it!

So to start here is my sub box so as you can see my box will be made of 3/4 mdf and nothing will be visible the only think ppl will see are 2-6inch ports and 1 slot! now let's say I replaced the front piece with a piece of lexan or Acrylic Plexiglas (racecar stuff I think...) that way ppl could see a side profile of the subs and then I could use some LED's and have a sexy light show lol! now more info that sub box is ~7cubi and 6.1 after all displacement the subs are NS v1 15inch subs, this is a TOTAL in the trunk enclosure. so my questions are: 1. will Lexan work 2. what is Acrylic Plexiglas a. how does it compare to lexan I am currently searching Google and I will report my findings but on first attempt i am coming up blank. to power the subs I will be using either saz2000/or saz2500 not 100% sure but nearly 5krms says 150db~~~~ around that, will the lexan hold up will Acrylic Plexiglas be as good. I have ZERO experience with each of those types of plastic and any and all help is very welcomed! p/s I will be using 1/2 thread rod to brace it all 2 from front to back and 2 from top to bottom idea, also if you think this is a dumb idea please feel free to say so.

umm i c i like the window idea i will play around with that idea... as for hiding the LEDs behind a 1inch lip so basically making a boarder now that is also a good idea! thanks guys you have given me something to consider over the very days! the reason why i went with the million lights is becase it comes with an adjuster so i can switch the color to whatever i wnat it to me! so i can use a solid color your have like a christmas tree lol!! thansk agian guys! i will keep you all in the loop with what i decide!

aww i c so you are one of those legendary guys who ppl talk about who dont' charge and arm and leg lol!!! WAS? not enough volume sales or jsut got board of sales lol and i didn't mean to bash you or stinger (although it may have sounded like that sorry) I worked for a Stinger dealer, but moved. It's good product, a problem arises when dealers charge MSRP, which really isn't needed When I was selling it we'd charge just barely above our cost, my boss wasn't in the business to make tons of money by ripping people off, we preferred to help people

nice! and be sure to take some pics to show it off!! like i always do lol!!

WAS? not enough volume sales or jsut got board of sales lol and i didn't mean to bash you or stinger (although it may have sounded like that sorry)