CrazyKenKid

umm the optimum yelllow top! this one right? Amazon.com: Optima Batteries OPT-9014045 Yellow Top Deep Cycle Spiral Cell Battery: Automotive but which one? Optima YellowTop Specs - Yellow Cap Batteries by Optima at any rate you will need more AH to suport a 2krms setup! maybe around 100ah! so maybe picking up another yellow top would be ideal for your setup and also help out a TON! if you can i woudl recommend putting both of them in the trunk! BUT BUT before that i recommend buying some new 1/0 awg and doing the big 3 asap and get a votl meter and mabye then you can avoid another battery and or a h/o! for my last setup i had 2-batcap 2000 (50ah each) no h/o and the big3 done! and it ran flawlessly!! with a pos starting battery! hell i cant' even fit a batcap 2000 under the hood(7x7x5~) at any rate i only got a h/o alt b/c my last alt was nearly 5 years old and it was time for a freshen up so i got it refreshened up and also got it upgraded to h/o aka new heat sink, recitifer and some other new improvmetns to it! and now it is 250 amp at 2500krmp or 200amp at 1.5krpm! around that area of specs! but it will for sure come in handly with the next setup!!!! and is this your poioneer amp? Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

first of all welcome to the forum! lol!! now your setup you says is 2k setup is this in watt or rms? if you are unsure please share a link to your amps! also WHAT is your starting and or SECONDARY battery>? if multiple please name them all and do you have a voltmeter to monitor the voltage going to the amps? also for the big 3 do you have ANY of this done yet?

i wouldn't get the kinitek but other would bag to differ lol! i wouldn't get it due to a rumor (potential fact) of if charged over 14.4volts they deteriate at much more aggressive rate, and thsi is supposively more common the newer kinetik. is it true most likey not but chargin any agm battery over 14.4 is bad so who knows! at any rate if money is key for you i would recommend buying a volt meter (say 30$ at best) and finishing the big 3 (alt to battery the positive run) and go from there! and if you insist to put the new battery in the front that will be fine. i prefer to put batteries as close to the amp as possible though. and you never know once you get the big 3 finished up and the kinetik in the rear you may not need a h/o!! look at it like this 1200rms at 12 voltts = 100amps of potential current draw at any given time? so if your stock alt is at least 100amps and you have a new battery you shoudl be good! lol!!

np! anytime! as for normalizing i found a link back in the day about normalizing via google i think the 3rd link was the charm! it gives you ALL the programs and step by step guide!

but in the long run jsut set the gain via ear then use a the remote gain knob and turn it down as needed as it gets stressed (the sub that is) and if you don't have a GAIN knob (not a bas boost) just use the volume knob and turn it down when it stresses out or bottoms out!

some music has differnt volume levels so if you normalize all your music it all plays at the same level. so lets say you set your gains with a 50hz 0db tone then you play a song which is +3db it iwll sound louder on yoru setup then next song is a -3db song sounds quiter.. alos sorry what type of mucic are you listening to? as for eq settings i just leave mine on flat and that wokrs pretty good for me!

also keep in mind do you normalize your music?

ya i did that once lol opps! lol

had enough time... how do you know this? what makes you think this this? i am not trying to under mind you jsut see why you think it is broken in already? some ppl say 2month some say 30hours some sya break in time is myth! i say 3months DEPENDING on your listening habbits!

is this is a bnib sub? if so you NEED to let the sub break in first! also you put your dmm in VAC not VDC right!! (volts A/C)

now that looks cool!!!!! I am currently taking motor and generators lol! we jsut finished that up and moved to transformer( the robots in disguise)!! but is cool b/c i know how that bish work inside aand out!! lol!!

you are correct!! and make srue you set your dmm in VAC (voltage a/c) not VDC!!!

for starters what is your cars RESONANT frequency? and are you a ONE NOTE wonder?

don't spend to much on 1 pop into radio shack and get a el-cheap-o one lol! not go spendign a ton on 1 jsut to CHECK voltage you know

X2!

while you are pumping do you rev your car? maybe try to rev up to 2k rpm and then pump it and see what happens?

like is say don't waste the money if you don't have to right? if it is a h/u issue or a grounding that can be fixed easire and cost free... also did you get a d1 sub so you are running at 2ohm?

are you using this amp at the full potential?

i still say get a dmm (digital volt meter) on it just to see what kind a voltage you are getting to the AMP then we can diagnos from there!

so you didnt' complete the big3 upgrade! (alt to battery, the positive run) other then that at 1200rms you have a currnet pull of about 100amps(at 12volts)! now i need to aks what is your rating of your alt? and front battery? also most likey it is going into protect due to lach of voltage i would definitally get a voltmeter on the terminals JSUt to see what kind a voltage the amp is getting then go form there as for the GAIN how did you set it? via dmm? or just by ear?

lol i guess! but let not candy coat running active esspecially for his first setup! i would recommend not going active till he fully understands what he is doing and what the benifits fo passive vs active and why ppl go active! also the potenial DANGER to goign active! since this is his first build and I KNOW he paided good money for those comps better not risk screwing stuff up!! jsut play it safe and if donw the road you wnat to go active for some reason and you are convinced of it go for it! and ask plenty of questions! Nobody told him to run active! I said he has the capability to run active!

actually since the amp outputss 160rmsx2ch at 4ohm you need to bridge the amp to achieve the 120rms output to each speaker commpont! ----RMS power, 4 ohm bridged 160W x 2CH to bridge this amp follow the wiring diagram accoringly as per the manual and or the side of the terminals! Sundown Audio - SAX-50.4 please note the pics on the right side the last pic on the rigth side in particular!

this is the KIDS first time installing comps and he is having an issue wiring them up to a crossover BUT you guys are telling him to run active??? comon! for your first setup go passive and call it a day! keep it safe and simple! now to wire the your crossovers simple run channel 1 to the left front stage and channel 2 to the right front stage of the car!!! if the crossover has 4 inputs (amp to crossover side) and it is NOT bypassable simple run the + and - wires to the woofer side and then make a little jumper to the tweeter side! does thsi make sense?? also amping yoru speakers is an AWESOME step but did you deaden your doors??

ty m5 i will get in touch with him today and see what what he saysing!

Hey guys I have a buddy who blow his midbass and he says his other midbass isalso starting to go. He told me a bunch of stuff and i will post it all here! basically i am baffled about it and though maybe someone can see somethign wrong with his setup! thanks for your time everyone and any and ALL help! here goes what he told me! let me know if you need any mroe info! " My head unit is the stock unit that comes with my 2009 Mazda 3, so I have this signal feeding into an MTX ReQ, which then splits the signal to sub and full range RCA's. The full range RCA's then feed into an Audio Control EQL ( http://www1.dealtime.com/xPO-Audiocontrol-EQL ) This ensures the signal that goes to the kicker SX 750.4 is clean and I can turn down the low end response as well as isolate frequencies. " more info "My EQL bandpass is fairly level, I'm not sure how familiar you are with my unit. it's a 13 band EQ. The MTX ReQ is recieveing the front L and R signals from my head unit and then turning that into SUB LR and full range LR which feeds to my EQL I have a 6 db roll off starting at around 80-100 hertz. it's nearly a 12 db roll at 63 hertz and 24 db once you hit 45 and below... ofcourse it's a rolloff so these are just approximates. My sx750.4 is all digitally set. I have the front doors crossed over at either 73 or 85 hertz (with an 18db rolloff) right now I believe with the bass enhancements targeted around the 120-150 hertz range. My sub bypasses all this EQ settings as it's pulling it's RCA signal directly from the MTX ReQ, I have a JL 10w7 and it's crossed over fairly high for a sub, I forget what I have it set at right now. But my sub can pound and never complains about playing a wide range. I purposely want a wide range punchy response from my 10" in a sealed box because I listen mostly to rock. As far as power..... it's a 10w7, it's plenty loud enough." so i am nto 100% sure on EQ's or how to set them up so i was wondering if you knew and or if these settings sounded a bit off to you... also if it helps here is the midbass driver he blew. http://www.esb.it/pdf/cm_8_165.pdf this TAKE a bit of time to load so give it a good 30secs before pressing the refresh button. lol! AND I think he missed one major piece of the puzzle. My sx750.4 is all digitally set. I have the front doors crossed over at either 73 or 85 hertz (with an 18db rolloff) right now I believe with the bass enhancements targeted around the 120-150 hertz range. The EQ although it has a gently slope, is INFRONT of the amp. Which means, the gentle slope is intended and I by no means am using the EQ as a crossover. The Kicker sx750.4 is all digital and the internal crossover is set at an 85Hertz roll-off of 18db, which is a steep slope. The speakers barely get any response below 60 hertz which is above the woofers rated frequency response. The problem could likely be the Headunit, however I purposely have everything tuned to about 75% of the head units power. This means I never turn my stereo above 75% from the head unit as the distortion from stock head units at higher volumes is BAD... If the head unit is still clipping and distorting at 75% then i'm SOL unless I get a new head unit. (which i'm trying to avoid because I have a Mazda 2009 and I don't want to swap the HU) If you don't mind, ask him what he suggest that is "bigger and better" The rating on these 6.5 woofers are pretty good but right now, I'm not overly impressed with their ability to handle over time.