CrazyKenKid

lol wow!!! full power! i wonder how much! aren't those mag v4 rated at 1krms?

5k team Cactus

how about 2-SAZ2000's? also do you have a budget?

hey guys thanks for the feedback on the doors! today i finished running all my wire needed for the door panels and i even finished my front port! now all that is left to do is install the panels, put the front baffle on (after fiber glassing it) put the batteries back in and prey it all works and sounds good! this build should be done pretty soon guys so keep posted and again thanks again for the support!

So i got back from my Vacation out in Calgary Alberta this week! and I also got my door panels back from Mike! (Jalat) and he did a great job! to see them in person is awesome!! at any rate enjoy the pics and let me know what you guys think of them!

30sec run on music at 1ohm 3k.... with 2-batcap 2000's the safe way to see if you will be okay is to do a 15second burst of music (with help from the pause button) and monitor your voltage all the while making sure to keep above...12.4 but at 0.5 ohm maybe try to stay higher? (lets someone else chime in on the voltage number as 0.5ohm i am not 100% sure) if you can hold a said voltage then try for 20 then 25 then 30 all the while letting the batcap fully recharge by doing this it is a safer way kind a like a build up to see if the your electrical can keep up or not but off the top of my head i think it will be close my h/o is a 220 and i could do it at 2k 1ohm for a good 45-1min balls out keeping about 13~ something with my batcap but my alt was a little more beefier also.

if you are asking you shouldn't be doing it! lol so lets do some quick math now! i assume 12volt i assume you want 3k at 1ohm (1.5k at 0.5 per amp) so 3k at 1amp = 250amps of potential current draw! seeing as your alt is 180amps and those batcap have a SMALL reserve ( i know i used to use 2-2000's before like yourself) I would NOT recommend you do that! also keep in mind by doing THIS setup you will VOID warranty BUT i must ask is this a daily or BURP only vehicle setup? if you say this is a burp only setup then i say go for it! just use your nose to smell for weird smells and keep an eye on the voltage!!!

It is the future!! smaller! better performance! only down side is it is expensive side of things!

question you say distortion level... what do you mean by this? i know distortion means CHANGE so how do you measure distortion and or how do you get a specific distortion level? are you referring to the input side? as in hook it up to a battery then hook up the battery to a charger at the same time that way the input voltage level will stay nominal? and or the output side...like as the sub heats up the resistance (impedance) will change and depending on the head unit / tone generator used this will effect the amps performance? I assume to you this answer is obvious but to me i am not 100% sure on of what you are say/typing! thanks in advance Clamping the DC side of the amp would tell you how much power the amplifier is drawing from the electrical system, not outputting to the speaker. When someone "clamps" an amp they are measuring the output side of the amp, which is AC. They normally keep a DMM on the power input side to monitor what the input voltage is dropping to, but that's not how they are deriving their power output figures. Anyways.....many people fall under this delusion that they are performing some meaningful act by "clamping" their amplifiers. As Crazy said, they connect their amplifier to a load (normally just a subwoofer in most cases) and play a test tone. They then use a DMM to measure the voltage output from the amplifier and a clamp meter to measure the current on the output side of the amplifier while playing the test tone. They then use basic ohms law to calculate power (Voltage * Amps = Power) and the impedance of the load (Voltage/Amps = Resistance). As I previously mentioned, most people will also use a DMM on the power input side of the amplifier to monitor the voltage drop the electrical supply is experiencing. The problem is, 99% of the time people are simply wasting their time. It's a mostly meaningless endeavor that has been perpetually (and incorrectly) promoted on the internet as having actual relevance. There are several problems with this method. Along with being able to question the accuracy of the measurements themselves for various reasons (accuracy of the devices, the type of measurement being conducted, the varying impedance of the load, the varying stability of the supply, etc), many people try to compare these "clamp test" results to the manufacturer rated power. The problem is, the manufacturer's rated power is specified at a certain distortion level. Nobody performing these clamp tests are measuring distortion. One could make any amplifier appear highly underrated very easily in one of these "clamp" tests as there is a total disregard of distortion.

I would assume he is measuring his output just to see what he is actually getting out of his amp power wise! maybe he can turn up the gains a bit more or wire the subs to a lower impedance during a burp at say 47hz....

NICE!! tuned in for this one!! and nice floor! looks very cool!

so what you are saying is NEO is the answer..kind a like in the matrix lol!! NEO ftw!

as long as you did v^2/R then you are good to go! (a/c voltage squared divided by actual resistance) to get the R valve unhook one of the sub leads and set the dmm to the ohm setting and see what the actually impedance of JUST the sub is! if you don't unhook it you will be measuring the impedance of the amp also! and do post your results and which amp you are using!

lol you like that! lol! damn what the morning will do to my typing lol and just to make sure nobody took step 13. in the wrong way i didn't mean ANYTHING by it not a SINGLE thing and if i have offend ANYONE please let me know and I will remove 13 ASAP or let the admin know to remove it. truely I meant nothing by it lol banginGMC got a kick out of it i guess lol! but i am sorry if i offend anyone. :roflmao: :roflmao:

when someone CLAMPS an amp they mean well i think they mean they used a CLAMP meter, which measures A/C current (since the amp outputs a/c current to the sub) and used the current reading to find out the total output of the amp and the actual power the amp is outputting! does that make sense? here take a look at this video notice the CLAMP he is using on the positive output side of the amp GOING to the sub! (the video's are download-able so you see what is going on) Uniform Amp Clamp Test - SSA Car Audio Forum

i say go with the stetsom amp! also how is your cars electrical? enough to handle the amp?

holy cow i post and 3 other ppl already posted before me! also one more question did you use the bass boost setting?

(o you have 80post lol sorry but welcome to ssa all the same)

amps can shut off for a few reasons..like low voltage, or impedance being to low (resistance but in a a/c circuit we call it impedance) bad remote? to much heat due to bad air quality/ circulation maybe even a bad ground! now lets figure this out or at least get close to the issue at hand! 1. do you have a dmm? 2. how did you set your gains? 3. what is the input voltage at peak current draw (full blast) and at no draw (volume at 0) ? 4. what is your input impedance (resistance) to the amp? 5. where did you ground it all 2 6. do you have a secondary battery 7. how much power are you using 8 .what size is your alt 9. what size wire was and or is being used to power the amp 10. what size fuses are you using 11. engine size 12. starting battery 13. you are gay or thinking of being gay 14. do you have a gf 15. is your mom hot 16. i know i am running out of things to aks 17. i am done! report back and we can go from there to help you! and yes you came to the right place for help! welcome to ssa and enjoy your stay!

...is she legal? and is she the girl in your DP mr.sagat? lol!

the most common way to clip a signal is by the gain being to high or when ppl use those silly RCA voltage boosting devices.. and or when ppl use that stupid bass boost thing and don't know how to control it properly! if you set your low pass filter to high can you harm the sub.... if the sub only has a range of 10-Hz (for example) and you want to cut it off at Hz NO or if you cut it at like 300 yes only b/c well you are playing it out of manufacture specs... but normally why do you want your sub playing anything over Hz anyways? over Hz i leave for my mid bass speakers! and yes the remote you get with ANY sundown amp is a remote GAIN knob! let say your set the gain on the amp to 1/2 (output say RMS FOR EXAMPLE) and the you plug your remote in the remote will either give you 0 (all the way turned down) or 1000 (all the way turned up) that way if you set your gains on the amp appropriately then you have nothing to worry about as the remote will not break RMS (your initial setting on the amp itself) does this answer your question? if not please restate or re-ask! and enjoy your day!

O no! that isn't good! i hope you sent it to the right pay pal... lol i am sure you did keep in mind Jacob is a busy man! and looking up a single request (payment) out of 100's could be hard to do especial b/c of how busy he is on a daily bases just answering e-mail questions!

I have!! I think I seen a pic of them on the Term Labs site!! or maybe it was on a ca.com...not sure off hand where i seen them but i have! as for my opinion on them I (as in ME) would compare them to a batcap alternative. but that is most likely just me!

here is an interesting read! i don't know if it is true or not but I would like some input on this! battery isolator vs relay - MP3Car.com ....I've got a question about using a relay (cheap) vs a battery isolator/diodes (expensive!) Before I go any further, I know about the "reason" why you should never use a relay, namely once the relay closes the drained battery will draw 47 billion amps from the charged battery, damaging both batteries and melting wires and causing large fires in the process. But instead, what if the relay was attached to close only about 5-10s after the engine was started? Then the power will be provided by the alternator instead of draining the primary battery, this should work, no? Alternatively, can I just build a battery isolator using a couple of diodes? Hell, even those diodes are much more expensive than a relay. You'd need what, probably 100-120A diodes, or 2x60? At like $10 each you'll need what, 4 of them? Still not a very cheap venture.....

aww NEO finally!! lol!! if you are doing neo motors in the 8's the 15's can't be far behind! lol!!