CrazyKenKid

hey want to know how i cut 1/0 wire? lol I cut it with this tool which i got from home depot (tool on the left) it cuts through the wire with minimal effort, this tool insure proper cuts all the time. I use the knife in the center to cut off the jacket of the wire. and use the tool on the end to crimp the wire to the terminal and let me tell you that bitch is on there solid!!!!! and sorry a little hard to tell with the terminal i used but let em tell you that thing isn't coming out!

now those panels look awesome!!

thanks man! a little update my SAZ2500 arrive on Tuesday (today) and i will be installing them this Saturday!! woot woot i can't wait!!!!! and a buddy of mine just purchased a TL so i will be getting metered to see what i can pull off at 5k lol

no not 300$ lol! you are silly! this is sundown audio we are talking about not JL lol

hey i would vote for 2-SAZ1000d amps! those things are beasts! and when you strap them the require a 2ohm load and can output more then 2000rms! i used to have a pair i know how they work and they work very awesome and efficiently! hands down! here is a link on ebay for some bnib ones! and if you pop over to db-r you can get a better deal (if he has some there for sale) http://cgi.ebay.com/Sundown-Audio-SAZ-1000D-Class-D-Amplifier-1000-WATTS-/180531157308?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item2a087ed93c#ht_2296wt_1137

we need to make you a podcast and a white board so you can share your ideas with us. And we can share our ideas with Jacob Like my idea to update how the user interacts with the amp settings this will be a modular design and also an idiot proof setting lol I got all kinds of ideas to revolutionize amplifiers design and functionality lol

OWell when I used fans to cool my amps I used them to push the hot air off of the amp or rather I pointed thefans at my heat sink fins Use one fan to push the hot air off of the amp and the other one to pull the hot air off Get what I am saying Also wire the fans in parellel provided they are 12volt fans also make sure to use a relay Feel free to check out my build logs to see how I used my fans in my 2 setups

I say go with two saz1500 and I hope you have the electrical back them up with. Keep in mind two saz1500 strapped at 1 ohm is just like two amps being ran at 0.5 ohms each Also as I bet you already know that running any saz amp under 1 ohm voids warranty also running an amp at 0.25 is suicidal lol because at any given time, since sound is dynamic, you can have up to 4x the amount of current running though that amp which isn't a good idea. Then again on a burp if done right you have nothing to worry about just don't forget to knock on wood first LOL And make a build log whatever you decide to do

man i seen this build when you did your first post and i some how let it slip my mind! and damn i am so impressed with this build! you do a hell of a job!!! keep it up! (want to do mine next? loll)

it might have been useless but it made it look different from other subs! o well i guess you can call it a limited edition thing like the saz2000's were! so how many pounds do these subs weigh?

YA got my tracking number today!! I can't wait common TUESDAY!

nice box! good start keep it going!

So today i noticed something interesting regarding my SAX100.4. I am currently running no subs (waiting for my saz2500(2) to come in) so my setup is the big 3, h/o, 2-nsb90, 2-zapco RB13.2 comps and the 100.4 so let me see if i can explain this issue correctly... here is my door panels for starters so i currently have all 4 channels in use and the crossover point is 80hz channel 1/2 - is 1 set of gains and filters (hpf) channel 3/4 - is another set of gains and filters (hpf) i am at the 1x range and hpf on channel 1/2 i have the gain set to 1/4 of the way up (just positioning i am not a noob it is for reference sakes) to match the output of 1/2 i have to set 3/4 gains to nearly 5/8 of the way up and even still channel 1/2 still sound louder then 3/4 for output my volume on my h/u is set at 45out of 50 and let me tell you these comps sound awesome almost skin peeling, they can take about 100rms so 200rms per side. and i do not notice any distortion or anything wrong my question (finally) is it normal for me to have to set 1 set of gains higher then the other? i have ruled out the RCA as the issue as i have switched them and i got the same result. for example channel 1/2 is the left side of the car and channel 3/4 is the right side of the car, so i switched them and i got the same result one side needed to be turned up, so this also ruled out the speakers as the issue umm what else can i say input voltage is a steady 14.4-14.6VDC , impedance of the speaker is around 4ohm per set other then that i am out of idea's and i need some help but if this isn't an issue then i ma not going to worry about it and just leave it as is. thanks Kenneth and yes before anyone asks i still get the same issue (potential issue) when my volume is 35/50

Ya that is what I was thinking but I guess Jacob has the best answer

o for the alt to battery use a 300 amp fuse and 1/0 wire! that way you aren't limiting the output voltage/ current from the alt to the battery by using to small of a fuse. i recommend fusing the run of wire from the front to the amp b/c well what happens if something shorts out for some reason and the wire get over 135amps of current? well fi it does it gets hot and the jacket of the wiring heats up and then melts and starts a fire! then your car will burn down and insurance will lol at you b/c you didn't use a fuse and they will withdraw your calm! fusing is for safety, and yes 1/0 will help out a lot! as it can carry more current then simple 4 awg should! and there is a guy selling 50ft of 1/0 kicker flat flex wire for 140 on this forum!

on board fusing saved the day!!!!

Welcome to the best forum on the web! with some of the smartest ppl in car audio today!

3) i think you are refering to the 4awg gauge wire from front to back for that i would use a 120amp fuse OR most ppl like to fuse to the amp! so if the amp has 120 of fusing on it just fuse to 120 amps OR some ppl like to fuse to the wire capacity! so if you 4awg can support 135amps of current use a 120 amp fuse! lol odd how 120amp fuse was in my example twice lol! but of course if you use 1/0 wire you will want to use a bigger fuse as the wire has a higher capacity of current (provided you are a guy who likes to fuse to the wires capacity)

1) doing the big 3 will HELP i would recommend getting a small battery to keep the voltage constant and get a voltmeter to monitor the voltage going into your amp! 2) 4 gauge wire can support 135amps of current and with 12 volt that is about 1620 rms so 4awg will support your amp well enough although ideally if you want to use 1gauge you will need to buy a 1/0 reducer to 4awg like this device here 0 GAUGE to 4 GAUGE WIRE REDUCER :: WIRE GAUGE REDUCERS :: Installation Accessories (TOOLS) :: AUTOTOYS (scroll down) 3) what are you fusing with 300amp fuse? the alt to battery (part of the big 3) or the 4awg wire from front battery to rear amp? 4) volt meter and build log!

here is an interesting read Battery or Cap - SSA Car Audio Forum

nope the fader is set to the middle and i am using all 4 pre-outs from the h/u (front left/right, and rear left/right) and i did try just splitting the front left and right rca and i did get the same result again

Nicely put Duran

Chris take it from me when I had that amp in my grand am all I had powering it was my stock alt of 110 and a kinetic 2400 in the back and a voltage meter also the big 3 Take it from me depending on your habit that will work out for your needs And hey you can pm me any setup related questions like this.

Okay thank you for the the advise I will not worry about. It is funny how in my 3 year of owning it I never noticed it and it took two sets of comps for me to realize it lol. Again thanks for the reply problem solved