CrazyKenKid

wait so the sa12 works best with a sealed box... keeping in mind db's aren't the goal here you say a sealed box would work best? if so i think a sealed sa12 would work out nicely. also duran can you specify what you mean by works best.. loudest or clearest or most efficiently? sorry you say t/s specs and i am not 100% familiar off hand what makes a good spl sub vs a sq sub can you elaborate a little bit? or link me to a site where i can read up on this! thanks again

hey guys thanks for the posts! ya putting a h/u in is out of the question with her! i don't know why she says a H/U looks ghetto.. ya i don't know she is crazy. but i am pretty sure she likes her setup and doesn't want to lose it plus it looks good. as for premium sound system there is an ome amp running a pair of comps and some rear fill some where also. as for the PAC LOC it looks pretty good i may pick it up. thanks agian

what are you thinking? i am open to suggestions hell i still need a suggestion on a LOC lol and the build hasn't started yet!

well SQ is what she is aiming for so maybe not an sa12?

12 would be the most flexible i think. i was thinking SA12...

for sure i will the amp will be an orion 1200d (the chrome one) the sub will be.... (not sure yet) she doesn't want a 150db monster hell she can't stand my 145.5 setup so i think around 140 would be her listening area the orion was cheap any idea's for the sub?

the car i will get pics of once the install is complete now my gf lol you asked! here is a couple http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q269/CcCrazy/Danielle/4900_101873926700_521826700_2522117_5446488_n.jpg

so LOC is what I need. Can you recommend a brand? and a price range off hand? also where would I tap into.. the rear speakers? thanks Kenneth

very true!

hey man i went from 142db to 145.5db and let me tell you! i was very impressed! sure 3.5db's doesn't sound like much but when you are sitting there 3db is the world o and with 1 window down TL in the passenger side i get 146.5db~ and this is on a single 15inch sub on 2-saz2500 right now

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ORION-300D-2-CHANNEL-600-WATT-CAR-AUDIO-AMPLIFIER-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2b832075QQitemZ400161972341QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo#ht_3127wt_1165 or http://cgi.ebay.com/Orion-1200D-Car-Amplifier-/220689701201?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3362219951#ht_500wt_1156 ebay is good for decent prices just watch what you get! and read some reviews

who clamps music.... we clamp tones more times then not and the numbers stay a little bit more steadier from there! clamping music doesn't mean anything due to the change clamping a tone would be more beneficial. especially to find your ohm load at the given tone! so you can wire your sub(S) lower on a burp! for example my sub has an impedance rise of 4ohms on a 40hz burp starting at 2ohms it gives me a total of 6ohm for a final load on my amps! so i can now try to wire my sub lower to a 0.5ohm load to do my burb and see how much rise i will have! and if my impedance falls to low with the starting ohms being at 0.5ohms then i know i shouldn't wire it lower and stay at 2ohms! lol but i assume most ppl already know this!

if you want i know a guy who design box's! his name is Jud if you would like send me a p/m and i will send you his e-mail. or you can use this site to help you design your box! http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

I use this tool (on the far right) to make my crimps. i got it off ebay for like 30$ works wonders if you can notice how nice the crimp is

careful the impedance rise hammer hits both ways for a daily setup! since music is dynamic! you can only rely on impedance rise for a burp and even then some testing has to be done first!

i c! all very cool! how many hours do you say you have in this build already? and on average how many hours to do a NORMAL low rider build?

how cow you have been pretty busy lately!! looks very cool! and i can see why you do this to your own car it would cost some one a fortune for someone else to do all this work to your car! wow! hell i never though you had to get this in-depth this is very cool to see come together step by step thanks for posting this up! you rock!

bass knobs are bad never use them! gain knobs are the best things ever! rca control knob (mentioned above) cool to have and flexible!

Great feedback kid, obviously people come here to read remarks like this. Thank you for existing. don't be silly dude Duran is one of the best on this forum and very knowledgeable. sure his remark seems a bit rash but it is all to make a good point given the specs that everyone already know about these subs and there power handling and cubic space required so even though his comment seems child-ish (hench why you called him kid..) it is far from p/s i bet he is old enough to be my dad! lol

way to big maybe toss two more eights in there and call it a day. to do this cut there top piece bigger and toss another top piece with the four sub cut outs on it

#9 - #8 = #1 now

here is some specs i found http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/autotek/pdfs/at_Silverado5050-5104.pdf althoug i think you have this already from maxxsonic i was also reading a reply from 3 years ago on another site and some one said they just called up autotek a sales rep guy and they got all the info they needed.. have you tried calling them or are they out of business now?

wow i wish i had some box like you lol!! congrats on the find!

Hey guys today about 1/4 of my cone let go from the basket.... so how do you fix this? glue? if so what kind a glue should i buy? thanks Kenneth

gary! i am on my pc now! here is Jud's e-mail [email protected] tell him Kenneth Palesh sent you! he can hook you up!