CrazyKenKid

hearing and feeling right lol

so I was sitting here wondering something so i thought i would post a question. first here is the sub a 15inch Nightshade v1 d1 now notice the terminals and how there is a hole on top of the terminals. now are those holes used for banana plugs? like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-STINGER-SPT8503-DUAL-BANANA-PLUGS-1-PAIR-GOLD-/170579337433?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b75220d9 if not what are they for? and if they are does anyone use them? I ask because lately with my new setup my subs are mounted backwards and accessing the one set of terminals is very very hard to do. notice the sub on the right hand side well that one is very tight to get to lol! so I was wondering what are those holes for and can i use banana plugs in those holes or no! and does anyone use banana plugs? thanks Kenneth

funny thing is my old 10awg slid right in, then for some reason i purchased the knu 10awg wire which for some odd reason seems to be a bit bigger then 8awg. and yes i know they should slide right in but for some reason i have a hell of time. at any rate just a little more info the amps powering the subs are 2-SAZ2500 currently, and they are a good 4ft long. o well i need to screw around wiht this setup some more and go from there lol. thanks for the info guys and enjoy your night/week!

you do a tacky job! lmao JK but i am tuned in for sure!!! and I like your box! what are the specs on it? (Sorry if you already posted this info but i must have missed it)

true that! plus one for you kind sir! as for trimming wires i am a bit impartial to that but i guess if i have to i guess i can. thankyou! I just trim the ends a little and twist the wire to a point per say, never have any issues. Not sure about soldering the ends, solder isn't that conductive compared to copper or cca wire.

you know i never thought about putting banana plugs in the side lol! damn you are a smart cookie! and yes that does help me some because i cna get the wire over to that side it is putting in the 10awg that is hard. like i always get a good 80% in and then the other 20% will just frey out lol. but with a solid piece going into the hole that would work! LMAO ya i always have an issue because my 10awg is just so big for that little tight hole lol! gg's lol! good times! thanks though and i guess i could solder the ends of my wires also!

maybe lol! but as you can see they are now attached lol I had to find someone with smaller hands! lol! at any rate are those banana holes? do you know off hand? because i have always wondered but never asked lol

ya i didn't ground out the amp to the back batteries because on that particular night and the person i whipped that out for his batteries were in the back and his amp was under his front seat! so i simply just told him to ground to which ever is closes and for him it was the fram rather then running more wire which he was limited to! and i am an MS master! lol! but yes if the amp is close to the batteries by all mean alwasy ALWAYS ground to the batteries!

well we only use a soleniod (not a relay because relay handle say 50amps and soleniods can handle say 400amp) when we play with car off. but since you will be a dialy driver and playing with car on you don't need to worry about this. just make sure to do the big 3 and to use 2 fuses when joining the two batteries. like in the pic i have included. but if you do want to play car off then get a soleniod and here is how you hook it up! and yes i love MS paint lol it works wonders! but please do the big 3! the big 3 is displayed in the first pic along with fuse locations for wiring two batteries together. keep the fuses within about 12inch (1ft) of the batteries.

nice box! but can i make a suggestion. see how your amp is right on top of the box! i would highly recommend you use another piece of wood under the amp to prevent unwanted shaking of the amp as best as you can. for example i have my 100.4 mounted right on my box and ever time the bass hit it would knock my rca out of my amp so i put a piece of wood under the amp with about 8screws holding the piece of wood to the box then 5 screws holding the amp to the second piece of wood! and like magic my rca stay in now lol! i know it looks bad but it helps a lot!! well it did for me!

hey guys so my last box was a failed box for a few reason so i am looking to make something else! here is my design let me know what you guys think of it and or any other suggestion you can recommend (the one on the left) in case anyone is wondering my max dimensions are 17x29x36 here is my old box design this box failed for a few reasons like a shyt load of flex and a general lack of space in my car available. so anyways let me know what you guys think of the new idea, any recommendations comments concerns etc... let me know and thanks for your help Kenneth

lol just looked up at the thread and it does in fact say feedback lmoa! and for some reason I thought i was in another section. lol! silly me! questions though: did he offer any DOA insurances?

also if the amp worked on 12v in your car and it worked in kevin's car, then like magic it died at 14volts that doesn't make to much sense. also when you tossed it in your buddies car was it already dead? as in yep it is dead in my car , then you put it in your buddies car just to confirm it is dead in his car also?

knock, I don't think this guy is scamming you. this guy OWN's a company and scamming isn't what owners do. scamming ppl= bad rep for him.! and seriously why are you posting this in a forum... P/M only my good man!

a relay? or a fuse? or a soleniod? if so what size wire are you using and how much power? and no you do not need to run a relay between batteries!! are you playing with car off? if so you need a soleniod!

lol you are correct! but i assume you i have 2-2500 NOW lol that is an old pic. and i have yet to get another one as it is in my tire well. lol! sorry for the confusion but i do have 2500's now!

umm you are upgrading you say... from 2000rms to 2500rms? 500rms isn't make an extra 2db's hell you will be luck if you get plus 0.2db's if you want to really upgrade go with a saz3500 or saz3000 now that would be an upgrade! hell with that alt you can support at least 1-saz3500 or maybe 2-saz2500! or maybe i am just crazy! lol! but as for numbers for the SAZ2500 line, I currently have 2 of them strapped at 2ohms and with a clamp meter on a burp my impedance rised to 6ohms and i was getting a good 2400 out of both amps! keep in mind they are rated at (2 of them that is) 5k at 2ohm strapped so at about 4ohm you can expect a good 2500rms and my sub was at 6ohms! umm come to think of it that poor 15inch NS lol! ya i had to spin them around so the wires would work out nicely lol! and yes they are both in the tire well! which make it very hard to steal!

so what are your system goals?

3500/14.2= 247 amps 3500/12.6 = 277amps! aren't the 3500 rated at 12.6

well contact DC alts on this forum and ask what he can do for your car! as for batteries looking into a xs d3100 or kinetik hc2400 and maybe order two depending on what size alt you get! and do the big 3 upgrade!

nice!!! now it is time to give that blazer a bath lol!

if i had to pick with those two i would go with the MTX 702 but i would buy it from here because it is cheaper! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PE8KEY?linkCode=xm2&tag=invihand-20 why because i like the style and the power is the similar and it is cheaper on amazon! (the link i listed above) also i assume your sub is a single 4ohm coil right

nice build gary! but for sure you need more power lol I didn't notice those subs moving to much lol!

300$ for both shades.. maybe each

nice box gary! looks good! and loud! but for sure lol! you need your SAZ3500 back