CrazyKenKid

very nice! congrats!

good to know thanks for posting this!

shizzzon just use a cut off wheel and remove that extra plastic!

hey how much did these brackets cost? (sorry if you have answered this question in the past) and if you don't want to post the price here that is okay with me. I am just wondering.

well I expressed my views to much lol

lol you will be fine with the welding supplies wiring!

I took a peak on google and I seen a few people saying the stock alt in your truck should be about 130amps and on 14volts 130amps is close to 2000rms, so I would say do the big 3 and then go from there. but also when using your amp (aq2200) you will be putting more of a demand on the alt so this will wear the alt out faster so keep that in mind and always be looking for a replacement alt or H/O alt. also can't you remove the alt from under the truck?

lol ya the cutout would be a pain in the butt to do lol! hey shizzzon the audiobahn sub back in the day how many dB's were they able to get out of it? do you know off hand?

honestly do the big 3 and see how the car reacts, and make sure to use at least 1/0 awg wire or 4/0! the next thing to do would be to get a rear battery something along the lines of a kinitek hc1800 or something like that. and if all else fails guess you will have to get the H/O what is your stock alt and what vehicle are you driving currently?

I wonder what the enclosure recommendations are?

LOL didn't audio bahn make something like this back in the day? Model DCX34 34-Inch Dual 2 Ohm Subwoofer Specifications: • Magnet Weight: 500oz. / 31 pounds • Woofer Weight: 103 kg / 227 pounds • 24 Magnet Motor Structure • Voice Coil Size: 5” • Voice Coil Type: Dual 2-Ohm • Cone Material: Aluminum; Cloth Surround • Frequency Response: 12Hz – 600Hz • PEAK Power Handling: 10,000 Watts • Resonance Frequency: 21Hz • SPL: 91dB ± 3dB

thanks this I didn't know! again great job on releasing another line of sub! you are awesome!

nice dude! and for everyone else looking for his build!

Motor diameter is the same, actually. SA looks a bit wider with the boot on is all -- both use 180mm diameter magnets. The SD-2 literally has one SA motor magnet slug. For sealed the 10s will enjoy about 0.5 cubes and the 12s about 1.0 cube or so... can go smaller with poly-fill if you like. this kind a sounds like a SI bm shallow subs a bit... how would these compare to something like that? or I am looking at an apple and trying to compare it to an orange?

nice dude! what vehicle is that in?

nice! what is the diameter of the motor on the SA vs the SD-2? Also what kind a box is recommended for these SD-2s? say 0.75-1.0 cubics?

SA12 D2 money has been sent!

again! lol! congrats!

that is what she said! lol

well la-de-da! lol! rest a sure my good man Jacob the man will take care of you he always does and never fails!!

very nice dude! it is looking great!

Can you take a pic of the missing piece. And I an pretty sure the switch you are missing is needed

hey no worries man! any time I can help out no problem! it is funny though how it was almost 3db differences from the TL vs the Makeitlouder meter. because when I was using it was always +/- 0.75db on average versus a TL my buddy has. but I blame your DMM lol! o well what was the TL score when the meter was on the window sealed up and one window down? do you remember off hand? also was the headrest the loudest point in your car hence why you put it on the headrest? also if anyone else would like to borrow the make it louder meter just drop me a PM and we can work something out. especially now since it is in the states and shipping shouldn't be an issue! but hey stefam you got the meter for as long as you want and if you make a change to your setup you can see it on this meter but I guess you can subtract a good 2db's from that score lol! actually if you want you can re-cal that meter on your pc for me! Not sure how to calibrate it And my dmm certainly isn't fancy, but I figured if it's reading a constant voltage then it's probably working Perhaps because we're at different altitudes and climates? All TL runs were with driver window down and and mic at passenger headrest, but I did my testing vice versa, I probably shouldn't have switched lol. Meca runs are all at the headrest, but since I didn't have a meca stand or anything, I just stuck the mic on the windshield. Only problem about trying to subtract 2dbs from the score is, db levels are logarithmic not linear. I have a couple people this week that would like to get metered, and I probably won't have my alt in for a few months or so, so next week I'll ship the meter out (just let me know if I'm shipping it back to you or someone else) Thanks good point man!

hey no worries man! any time I can help out no problem! it is funny though how it was almost 3db differences from the TL vs the Makeitlouder meter. because when I was using it was always +/- 0.75db on average versus a TL my buddy has. but I blame your DMM lol! o well what was the TL score when the meter was on the window sealed up and one window down? do you remember off hand? also was the headrest the loudest point in your car hence why you put it on the headrest? also if anyone else would like to borrow the make it louder meter just drop me a PM and we can work something out. especially now since it is in the states and shipping shouldn't be an issue! but hey stefam you got the meter for as long as you want and if you make a change to your setup you can see it on this meter but I guess you can subtract a good 2db's from that score lol! actually if you want you can re-cal that meter on your pc for me!

Nice pics stef! also Mark would you like a person in the clothing or no?