CrazyKenKid

well that doesn't make any sense how did Dr. Emmett Brown (from the back to the future series) only use 1 flux and still travel back and forth in time... it must have been the plutonium! and even his flux made like 1.2 gigawatts of power! (rms lol)

thanks! keep an eye out for my next comparison test! The next one will be using sound deadeners, say about 3-5different brands, and 22 gauge steel lol! (this one might not work out but keep an eye out) Excellent. I have a sample of DC Power 1/0 on its way to my house. Do you want me to send you a piece? Hey man I would love a piece! check your p/m's

ya I tried Kicker but they wouldn't sell me just 3ft, I think the best he would sell me was like 20$ and the price he told me I was like screw that lol! as for that IXOS stuff why didn't you tell me about it in my other thread lol! http://cgi.ebay.com/IXOS-Power-Cable-50ft-1-0AWG-Metallic-Pearl-Blue-/300561219082?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fad83e0a#ht_604wt_791 I just dropped an e-mail to this guy to see if he will sell me 3ft! lol! I hope he does!

you know I was looking for something like that! http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=38 although the price is a bit high for me lol! so does anyone owe one or rather 4 of those that they would like to do use 14 times lol!

glad I could help! feel free to pass this info onto your buddies! and most of that wire was purchased off of ebay so buy more then 3ft at once and you will get a much better deal then I did lol!

Hey guys I want to make a thread and in this thread I want compare different brands of 1/0 wiring. I want to show off each wires flexibility vs other brands and also strands and what not. What I plan to do is to buy say 5ft of 1/0 from different supplies and then do a comparison. so far i want to buy the 2 brands by KNU the koluss and CCA also 1/0 from www. welding-supplies.com and some 1/0 from kicker. What I need to know is if there are other brands that ppl like to use like street wiring or ... let me know and we will go from there! thanks and I hope everyone enjoy the thread I make. Kenneth

thanks! keep an eye out for my next comparison test! The next one will be using sound deadeners, say about 3-5different brands, and 22 gauge steel lol! (this one might not work out but keep an eye out)

very good point! and yes I did consider this but with my current setup I don't think I would be able to pull off 14 accurate tests with my setup, but if you would like or anyone else would like to do a real world test just pass me your shipping address via a p/m and I would love to see a real world fallow up to this review.

here is the completed thread! ADMIN please lock this thread!

what? okay so lets start over! lets say you have 2 batteries, one in the back and one in the front. these batteries will be hooked up in parallel so the voltage, in theory, will be the same at any point in your setup. but we know that if you have your amp hooked up to the rear battery it will draw more from the rear then from the front battery, so with this being said it will be safer to hook up the stinger voltage meter to the rear battery rather then the front battery that way you will get a more accurate, and a better idea of what your actual voltage is that your amp is seeing. and this will be the best way for you to monitor your voltage getting to your amp! and like the last guy said you could also hook the voltage meter up to your amp and go from there. also be warned you will have to calibrate your stinger meter with a DMM (digital multi-meter)! this is simily done by first hooking up and setting up your stinger meter 100% then hooking a DMM up to your battery(batteries) and getting a voltage reading and comparing it to the reading on your stinger meter. if it is high you will have to adjust the Philips screw driver pod which is yellow and is located under the screen cover. you will do this calibration test first with the car on, and then again with off, then again on! make sense? I hope this helps! if not ask! and if it still doesn't ask again! lol

very cool man! I like the look of the shop!

you said it! this is also why I wanted to purchase a voltage meter from you! actually i might have to buy another one from you sooner then later for my brother car! also I Have notice that temperature effect the stinger volt meter, not by a whole lot say about 0.1-0.2 but still enough to make mention. either I got an older stinger meter or my meter is a PILE of junk but that is just what I noticed and though I would post this up!

hey just a word of reference. If you hold the positive wire and remote wire together and place those both on the same 12v source, and the black on ground the reading on the volt meter will be HIGHER then it should be! so DO NOT set the volt meter up this way, instead install it correctly THEN set/ calibrate the voltage meter with a DMM! understand? I only say this because back in the day I set my stinger volt meter up via hooking up the red and blue and black up then hooking my DMM up and getting a DC voltage the using my Philips screw driver adjusting the voltage to match the DMM reading. once I got it all hooked up my voltage was over 15 VDC and I was like that isn't right so I whipped out my DMM and double checked my calibration on the voltage meter and low and behold it was set to high. at any rate I hope this helps and enjoy your night!

send this guy a private message and ask about voltage meters for 25 dollars he will send you pictures and information http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/user/2377-shizzzon/

keeping in mine that in a parallel setup (positive to positive and negative to negative) the voltage at any place in the brand will always be constant! I can't comment on that particular one you speak of, but I know if you buy one of those stinger ones off of ebay and put it on the input terminals of the amp then you will know for sure the voltage that is getting to your amp. (after you calibrate the stinger meter) OR alternatively you could buy a volt meter from Shizzzon (a member on this forum) and the ones he sells have a auto dimmer and you never have to calibrate the voltage meter!! for a smaller setup(as in no rear batteries needed) that one you posted should be alright. but I must ask what does your system have? how much power are you using? what kind a electrical background do you have? and if you are going over the 15000rms mark? are you using an extra battery? one more thing that ciggarette lighter volt meter is looking at the front battery and if you have a battery in the back the amp will be drawing from that battery more so then the front battery.

hey man more schooling is never bad! I vote for you to stay in school IF you can afford it/ do it!

if you drop him an e-mail I am sure he will get back to you! other then that Jacob do you have an updated list of what is left?

about a 4.91$/ gallon here in Canada! That is 1.3$ per liter and there are 3.78 liters in a gallon. So 1.3*3.78=4.91

is it soon yet? lol!

lol NO this is a sub sale! amps were like 2 weeks ago! lol! but db-r has a 2500 for sale! http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_109&products_id=286 and to let everyone know I received my SA12 D2 last weekend and it looks awesome and my wallet wasn't even hurt! but I know my ears/car will be! thanks again Jacob! you rock!

the SA8's are on sale! plus some reburb sa8's a little bit more expensive but they are tried tested and true plus you know what is up! lol

and by sundownz you mean Jacob! (owner of sundown audio) and he should have some stuff in stock for you so when you get paid just drop him a paypal payment and away you go!

Don't do it! The v2 parts don't like the v1 motor lol. So yes you can but it isnt recommened but you might be able to trade up one v2 for your v1 plus cash on your end but you have to ask about that one.

very slick! I like it! how much port area did you give to those subs and what tuning!

Happy Birthday