CrazyKenKid

I live in Windsor Ontario Canada and I will be in waterloo this week why do you ask ?

no worries man! anything to help!

the Velleman are nice oscope to use. I have used one back in the day the bigger display and simply to use layout of the device is nice to use! as for a DMM i own and LOVE my fluke 115 but on ebay you can get them here are a few I seen off hand http://cgi.ebay.com/Fluke-114-Electrical-TRMS-Multimeter-NEW-/160631466051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256661a843#ht_2339wt_1129 http://cgi.ebay.com/Fluke-115-True-RMS-Multimeter-/120758099334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1dbe5d86#ht_500wt_1146 http://cgi.ebay.com/FLUKE-117-TRUE-RMS-MULTI-METER-NEW-PACKAGE-/150639219458?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2312cc1302#ht_500wt_1146 keep in mind the flukes are AUTO range so all you do is set it to resistance and it will auto range it to what it has to, plus they have a back light on them plus they hold the lowest/mid/average/highest reading on the display. I don't know I like flukes and they will never do you wrong, well my 115 does all the above mentions things I didn't look to close at the other ones though. plus the res on the flukes is like 4 places.

actually now that we are here what are your goals and expectations and or Plans? 9 out of 10 people don't need an oscope but think they do lol! tell us why you think you need one and or your thoughts! and yes everyone does need a DMM!

in regards to the oscope if you save up about 100$ you will be good to go! I say 100$ because once it is shipped and potential tax's 100$ is a safe bet! http://cgi.ebay.com/2Msps-Sampling-Rate-ARM-DSO-Nano-Pocket-Oscilloscope-/190466403499?pt=BI_Oscilloscopes&hash=item2c58aeacab I think there is a newer version of this one on there site and even on the site is it under 100$ so good luck and let us know what you get! just make sure if you get one it has 10X probes! or an alternative would be that SMD no clipping device, although if you tune your setup with an oscope you will most likely be turning it down or up depending on your music you listen to and how it is recorded!

umm you get what you pay for being nearly 5$. but if all you are doing is checking the resistance of your sub then you will be fine, and the voltage of your battery you are good to go. The only down side I can see is there is no continuity test on it, also sometimes called the BEEP test. I wasn't able to view the link you gave but I did take the last digits from the link and just search for it on Partsexpress Part number: 390-500 Title: 3-1/2 Digit 19 Range Digital Multimeter with Transistor Test 3-1/2 Digit 19 Range Digital Multimeter with Transistor Test This digital multimeter is a compact, light tool - a bargain if you need something inexpensive and reliable. The heart of the instrument is the ICL7106 IC coupled with a large 3-1/2 digit, 7 segment, 0.5" high LCD display with a maximum reading of 1999. Includes 9V battery. The unit can measure DCV (0.1mV - 1000V), ACV (0.1V - 750V), DCA (0.1mA - 10A), Ohm (0.1O - 2Mohm) diode forward voltage drop and hFE for bipolar PNP and NPN transistors. Measurement specifications: AC voltage measurement Connect the red lead to "VOmA" jack and the black test lead to the "COM" jack. Set the rotary switch at the desired V~ position. Connect the test leads across the source or load being you want to measure and read the voltage value on the LCD display. DC voltage measurement Connect the red test lead to the "VOmA" jack and the black test lead to the "COM" jack. Set the rotary switch at the desired position. If the voltage to be measured is not known, set the range switch at the highest range position and then reduce it until a satisfactory resolution is obtained. Connect the test leads across the source or load being measured. Read the voltage value and polarity on the LCD display. DC current measurement Connect the red test lead to the "VOmA" jack and the black lead to the "COM" jack. For measuring currents between 200mA and 10A, insert the red lead into the "10A” (unfused) jack. Set the rotary switch at desired position. Open the circuit in which the current is to be measured, and connect test leads in series with the circuit. Read the current value on the LCD display along with the polarity of red lead connection. Resistance measurement Connect the red test lead to "VOmA" jack and the black lead to "COM" jack. The polarity of red lead is positive "+" in this mode. Set the rotary switch at desired range position. Connect the test leads across the resistance to be measured and read the LCD display. Note: If the resistor being measured is connected to a circuit, turn off power and discharge all capacitors before applying measurements! Transistor Test Before attempting to insert transistors into the socket for testing, always be sure that test leads have been disconnected from any measurement circuits. Also, components should not be connected to the hFE socket when making voltage measurements with the test leads! Set the rotary switch to the "hFE" position. Determine whether the transistor under testing is NPN or PNP type and locate the emitter, base and collector leads. Insert the leads into the proper holes of the hFE socket on the front panel. The multimeter will show the approximate hFE value at the condition of base current 10µA and a Vce of 3V. Diode test Connect the red test lead to "VOmA" jack and the black lead to the "COM" jack. The polarity of red lead is positive "+". Set the rotary switch at the diode test position. Connect the red lead to the anode of the diode to be tested and the black lead to the cathode of the diode. The forward voltage drop of the diode will be displayed in mV. If the connection is reversed, only figure "1" should be displayed for a good diode. Battery and fuse replacement If the sign "BAT" appears on the LCD display, it indicates that the battery is old and should be replaced. Loosen the screws on the back cover and open the case. Replace the exhausted battery with a new one of the same type (9V 6F22 or NEDA 1604). To replace the fuse it's easy and should be replaced with a battery of the same ratings (F250mA/250V). The unit has a wide operating temperature: -20°C to 75°C (32°F to 104°F) and a storage temperature of: -10°C to 50°C (10°F to 122°F). The accuracy is guaranteed to stay in the following limits for 1 year, when used at 23°C ±5°C, less than 75% relative humidity: AC voltage Frequency range: 45 Hz to 450 Hz. Response: Average responding, calibrated in RMS of a sine wave. Range Resolution Accuracy 200V 100mV ±1.2% of rdg ± 10 digits 750V 1V ±1.2% of rdg ± 10 digits Note: some models have a maximum input voltage of only 600V AC with an overload protection of 600V DC or RMS AC for all ACV ranges. DC voltage Range Resolution Accuracy 200mV 0.1mV ±0.5% of rdg ± 2 digits 2000mV 1mV ±0.5% of rdg ± 2 digits 20V 10mV ±0.5% of rdg ± 2 digits 200V 100mV ±0.5% of rdg ± 2 digits 1000V 1V ±0.8% of rdg ± 2 digits Input impedance: 1MO Maximum input voltage: 1000V DC or 750V rms (200mV scale: 500V DC or 350V AC rms) Note: some models will have a maximum DC input voltage of only 600V with an overload protection of 250V RMS AC for the 200mV range and 600V DC or RMS AC for other ranges. DC current Overload protection: F250mA 250V fuse (10A range is unfused!). Range Resolution Accuracy 200µA 0.1µA ±1.0% of rdg ± 2 digits 2000µA 1µA ±1.0% of rdg ± 2 digits 20mA 0.01mA ±1.0% of rdg ± 2 digits 200mA 0.1mA ±1.5% of rdg ± 2 digits 10A 10mA ±3.0% of rdg ± 2 digits Resistance Maximum open circuit voltage: 3.2V Overload protection: 250V rms. AC on all ranges. Range Resolution Accuracy 200O 0.1O ±0.8% of rdg ± 3 digits 2000O 1O ±0.8% of rdg ± 2 digits 20KO 10O ±0.8% of rdg ± 2 digits 200KO 100O ±0.8% of rdg ± 2 digits 2000KO 1KO ±1.0% of rdg ± 2 digits Other specs Diode aprox. testing voltage is 2.8V with a current of 1mA. The overload protection in the diode test mode is 250V RMS. AC. Over range indication: figure "1" on the display. Size: 126 × 70 × 25 mm Weight: 170g

holy cow I thought this was all done with man. sorry to hear this best of luck to you man.

what was the other guy running?

that is awesome Jacob is helping you out. and I hear you on the gas pricing BS going on lol! I also have a pair of NS and they pound very hard, on mine I got them build with 3 spiders from the Zv3 woofer and they should be able to handle about 3krms each~ currently I have 2-SAZ2500 and I plan to upgrade those to 2-SAZ3500 when I get the extra cash lol! but I am currently in school and that is a kick in the balls lol!

wow you put a lot of work into it man! looks good!

remaining item update?

nice dude! so how is your voltage doing? also did you notice that on db-r site the saz2500 is on sale for 400$ (reburb)

very nice man! and your poor daughter

lol bass is a drug! and you can't win so just join in already lol!

and time to get metered!

nice man! good work! also notice your rear wiper doesn't like your subs either lol!

very nice man! I love that battery rack! very clean and sharp!

So on the weekend I decided to install my little brother sound system with him in his 1996 ford escort and I thought I would toss on a few pics! First the equipment. Box design: by Ram, also a member on this forum http://www.ram-designs.com/quote.php Voltmeter: from Shizzzon Sub: SA12 d2 from Jacob as being sold as Used, B-Stock, Refurbished Amps, and MISC (some of you may recognize the title) Amp: SAZ1000 reburb from db-r H/U: JVC Arsenal KD-AHD79 from crutchfield http://www.crutchfield.com/s_105KDAHD79/JVC-Arsenal-KD-AHD79.html?tp=5684 Wiring: all from KNU Switch: 12vdc 10amp A little more info my little brother build and colored the box completely. I just helped with the sub hole, and wiring the sub/ system. O and the voltmeter is a non-adjusting voltmeter with an auto dimmer! so basically plug it in and you are good to rock and roll, unlike those stinger ones which are always to damn bright and some times you have to calibrate them with the POD. The only down side to the voltmeter that I picked up is I had to wire in a switch to turn it off and on which isn't a big deal but the newer ones that shizzzon is selling have a remote turn on lead! I also didn't do the big 3 to my little brother car as it was holding 13volts minimum at full tilt! so I didn't feel he needed it. (knock on wood) I think he did a pretty good job! and with that enjoy the pics and please pass on any and all comments! Car off and some of wiring pics thanks for viewing! also for those wondering if you remove the rear seat and fold down the backs of the rear seats you can make a WALL very easily! with 100inch plus back to front with about 38wide and whatever tall! lol! good times! you can kind a see it in this picture! and we didn't have any two-way tape at the time so we could tape the voltmeter to the bottom of the ash tray

NICE!!

ya big 3 didn't happen as I forgot to bring my 1/0 wiring down with me lol! as for the front stage not with that car/ built maybe his next one though! and big 3 for sure IF he gets a secondary sub (amp gets turned up a bit to make more power)

lol I bet he will turn into a bass head also lol! this is also why I had him get a SAZ1000 so in the future he can upgrade

very true his car and that sub combo sound very nice together and it gets loud!

Here is a video guys!

eyes are open! http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9683-sax-2004d-sundown-audio-800w-4-channel-amplifier.aspx So will woofers etc be only selling them or will you be selling some in your "Used, B-Stock, Refurbished Amps, and MISC" I assume just them but I thought I would ask!

This was his first box he built on his own. He has helped me in the past with about to of my other boxes so he has a good idea on how to make them. And he loves his build to death. As for car shows I. Am he will be doing bass race and not really db hunting