CrazyKenKid

How is your first post on a thread months old LOL it was something new to add his idea! which i think is a great idea! hell for me I just used expanding foam and L brackets lol! (truck / car setup / 4 door car)

i would be checking this out for starters! actually where is this h/u grounded to? harness or a piece of steel somewhere in the car? you need to have a solid connection, for me I ran a piece of wire from my h/u all the way to my frame of my car and called it a day! ( I also have the big 3 done in 1/0) also does it make a wine-ing noise when accelerate. also before getting a new h/u you should get this issue sorted out because chances are when you install the newer h/u the same issue will still be present! heck for shyts and giggles just buy a bnib h/u (kenwood) and plug it in using the existing plugs(should take the same plugs so no soldering in a new plug) and what not and see if the issue is still there! if it is you have a wiring issue and you need to address this issue first and if it isn't there the h/u is screwed! and then simply return the other kenwood h/u! and tell them you didn't like how it looked! lol

ya I don't know about part 3 any more, the dude I was talking to seems to have fallen off the face of the earth lol! unless you have a load tester? lol

check the rca coming from the radio I think he means did you check the output of the amp by removing the sub and hooking a DMM and reading the A/C volts! and I get what you mean I am running a 5v h/u and 2-2500 and yes I know the voltage on the h/u pre-outs means jack shyt but generally when I use a sundown amp I hardly break 1/4 gain even on a 2v h/u! and yes I use a DMM to verify this tuning by ear and it is normally pretty good! the only down side is the music now a days as it is recorded differently so we use the gain knob for this instances! and nice tutorial! short and sweet and to the point! lol

o cool! give it a shot try it out! worst case you fill 140$ worth of batteries right! best case it lasts lol!

you say it ran those amps good as if to ask what was your voltage at full tilt? did you monitor your voltage at all? or how do you know you were good? also 2400rms is nothing compared to 3500 plus I think those AQ amps will pull a bit more? 3500 AQ is a new ball park?

umm interesting! something doesn't add your rating is 205 RC (205=3.5mins) so in 3.5mins at 25amps the battery will be dead... I must be reading something wrong plus the battery has a 125 ah I don't' know we need a battery expert here lol! also for that price what is the return policy.. as if to say if you get 2 of them in your car and you kill one or both of them because your beast of an amp murdered them what can you do? return them for money? in store credit? or what?

Reserve Capacity, (RC) is a battery industry rating, defining a battery's ability to power a vehicle with an inoperative alternator or fan belt. The rating is the number of minutes a battery at 80 degrees F can be discharged at 25 amps and maintain a voltage of 10.5 volts for a 12 volt battery. The higher the reserve rating, the longer your vehicle can operate should your alternator or fan belt fail. ( http://www.autobatteries.com/faq/index.asp ) 875 not sure about it either but lets let someone else chim in. you posted it says 125 amp/hour (ah) I think that is how much the hc2400 is also, tell me some more about it, what is the cost and weight of this battery?

o and in regards to fusing always fuse the + positive run regardless for safety reasons, and always fuse to the wires capacity, so if you are using KNU wiring I think its capacity is like 300amps~ but if you use another brand check with the manufacturing company for the wire specs and current capacity! and don't use a distro-block to power your amp because look at it like this 1 run of 1/0 wire into the distro-block and 2-runs of 1/0 out of the distro-block(i don't think they make that), lets say the 1/0 input wire has 300amps flowing through it well guess what the maximum amount of current that your amp can pull from that single input is 300amps and that is the limit on it! so the distro would be more of a bottle neck!

well it isn't smart to mix and match batteries with a lower float. For example put a DMM (digital multimeter) on your starting battery with the car off and sitting for a about an hour and this will tell you the floating voltage on that battery. A Hc2400 should float at about 13.1vdc but if your starting battery floats at 12.3 that starting battery will be constantly drawing/ taking from the rear batteries. over time that isn't good does it happen.. yes will it continue to happen sure! well that is the way I see it, so take my word as hear say at best lol! also before I condemn the wal-mart battery what are the ratings on it? CCA, CA, and anything else readily available on the battery spec wise!

you hook up 2 runs of positive and 2 runs of negative from your closes battery whihc I hope is like 1-HC2400 or 1-d3100 and that should be part of a auxiliary battery/ bank! and yes you hook batteries in parallel, aka + to + and - to - if you hook batteries in series each batteries voltage will tally up so if you hook 2 batteries in series (+ to - ) your final resting voltage will be 24~ vdc but in a car audio setup you don't ideal want that so that is why we hook batteries in parallel because when you hook them in parallel the voltage is seen on all brances as 12 volts no matter how many 12v batteries you hook up!

wow that model has a nice tat near her tummy! lol! I will have to test some of this stuff would you ship 3ft to canada?

i like that crimper you used! lol! I purchased the exact same one on ebay for about 30$ ~ it is very nice to use!

so the belt issue is all fixed up! was it just me or did that belt look a little stiff? at any rate nice fix on the sub and nice paint job on that bracket looks a TON better!

o WOW very cool! Since you didn't pay anything extra it might have just been the amp! and did you send the amp to Jacob or to db-r (Chris) if you did send it to db-r just drop that guy an e-mail about it and he normally responds quite quickly! but I am glad to hear (read) you will be bumping again!

very cool! if you have time can you get a pic of the speaker but panned out as if to say put the camera at the head rest and take a quick snap shot? other then that it looks great man!

O got ya sounds simple enough thanks for explaining that but I still expect the amp is at fault so let's sit tight for a few days and wait for the diagnoses

sorry I am dense when it comes to using a OME h/u. what did you buy from SSA?

so you have ruled out: stock electrical as an issue (check) DC on an RCA (check) ground wirings (check) now I think I need a bit of a refresher for a second so bare with me, are you running a LOC? I assume you already checked the wires going into the LOC and that checks out, but have you check the voltage of the RCA going into the amp with a DMM (digital multi-meter) simply plug one in and check the other one with the DMM and let us know the readings you get, but I think you mentions above that you have another amp in place right now and it isn't dead yet? also is this a 1200 v1 or v2 i am currently leaning towards a lemon amp based on the above info

so are you going to send this amp in to get checked out at all? If you do the person who looks at the amp will most times tell you what happened and the most possible cause for this issue happening! it might just be a lemon amp and if it is guess what sundown will take care of you man! and if it turns out it has a fried power supply or something of that nature he will tell you about that also!! just send it in already and lets not bicker back and forth about what went wrong and what might have went wrong, and if it is an install issue we will be like told you so and if it wasn't an install issue then I assume some apologies will be in order!

I have used these for a good 5 years now in my car! http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KARSS4.6M they have never failed me! but the ones you found on Amazon also look very good! heck they are Tsunami they can't be that bad lol and if they are hell just send them back no hurt feeling with a return, now I must ask what is your 4channel amp you are going to use?

i was thinking about that... so have 1 screw/bolt holding the 4 ring terminals on top of each other ?? what do i make them out of ?? I just added a pic for you of how I did mine back in the day sorry I couldn't find a pic with my buss bars but I should take one lol! and you cna use screws from home depot if you are really cool use some brass copper screws lol!

you can use scews and washers and lock washers! or better yet make some buss bars! and I can't seem to find a pic of my nice buss bars. they are simply a piece of 1/4" aluminium with 4 tapped holes drilled in them and one cleanance hole for the main screw to screw into the battery terminal!

cool amp! nice price!

if you send me some left overs I would love to compare it to the others and give you my opinion on it! you can send me a p/m here or e-mail at [email protected] and we can work something out!