CrazyKenKid

lol it looks like you stabbed the power and ground wires with your test props lol!! that is awesome!! (but i guess it is also the most accurate!)

umm i used 14.4volts and i used 3000watts lol opps not 4000. my bad! i guess getting off my 11hour shift at work kind screwed me over. i wonder what the price difference is of a 200amp h/o and a 250h/o? Hell more is always better, maybe one day he will upgrade to a 5krms setup and the 250h/o will come in handy lol. o well sorry for the mess up! i apologize!!

have you looked into batcaps? or even power surge? or those ones called deka? or how about those ones called shuriken? http://www.shurikenonline.com/ http://www.powersurgebatteries.com/product.html http://www.batcap.net/ keep in mind the kinetik, shuriken, batcaps, power surge are all rebadged batteries! I am currently using to batcap 2000's in the rear and a stock battery in the front and at full tilt my batteries drop to about 13.4volts ish. And i believe Deka is your best bet b/c they are made in the US. but then again there are plenty of batteries out there to buy!! choose carefully!

you CAN NOT strapped the SAE1200d but you can use a device called a MAXX-Link to get them to work together. Hope that helps!

well for 4000rms you will be pushing nearly 250-280amps so for fusing use a 300amp fuse and use some big wire! as for an H/O go with a 250-300amp and you should be golden! Now as for the battery in the front i would jsut keep it stock and toss 2 batteries in the rear (or one bigger one). I have been told it is better to have a bank of batteries rather then 2 batteries about 13ft apart!! but ppl have done a big battery in the front and in the rear and havn't had an issue! o also get a voltmeter so you can keep an eye on your voltage!!

where did you send them? and why not post them here instead?

johnecon2001 also mentioned "And you'll have to take it apart to check the gap on it to tell if its a universal motor" so taking it apart would be the other way to tell i guess!

Hey guys my buddy has a Fi 15inch fully load btl sub dvc 1ohm and he was wondering: "does the btl have a universal motor option? Fully loaded yes, but i'm thinking of getting it reconed to a dual 2" i guess he wants to run it as a duel 2ohm! i guess he wants to run it down to 1ohm rather then .5 or 2ohm load for his amp! Let me know Kenneth

so no one else has feedback for sundown? Well i have some more! Back in the day I used to be an orion kind a guy. I had about 4 Orion 1200d amps and I even ended up refinishing one of them b/c it was damaged and i have even owned a pair of orion 2500d's and a orion 4002 and a 8002. All those amps did the job the way they were suppose to do it but when i switched over to sundown I can't believe the difference it made! Stuf jsut got louder and gain settings got lower, plus the qualy was just amazing! I curently now have owned an sundown sae1200d, 2000d, 100.4, and 2 sae1000d. In my unprofessional opion sundown beats all!! (sundown > all else) Now lets get some more reviews going on this thread!! Kenneth

awesome! thankyou very much for your reply. and i don't think he ordered it with the universal motor option! but we will see!

Hey guys I was just wondering what what ppl would choose! either 2 - batcap 2000 bnib or 1 XS d5100 and 1 xs d3100 bnib The batcaps will be about $536shipped The xs will be about $650shipped. The price isn't a factor to me i am just wondering which would be a better pick? my car audio right now is 2krms and in the future i wnat to push 4-5krms thanks for your time and suggestions Kenneth

nice links

if fluke makes one then i would buy that one but under 300$ you might have a hard time

i know the opti's are good amps but dont know that much about lanzar there close to what they say just a hair lower i think thats were those sundown audios are fricking awesome good clean power x2 sundown > life!! lol!! you know what though using a 2channel amp isn't the way to push a piar of amps man. you should hook those amps in parellel (run them at 1ohm) and buy my sae1200 off of me!! lol!! (sundown amp) p/m me if you are interested!! are you talking to me or ken? and by amps you mean subs? i really wish he would buy that haha trust me lol i was talking to you! and i wasn't talking to me! (me being ken lol) if i talk to myself, i don't answer back...is that weirld! and by amps i mean subs AND AMPS!!! it is better to have a rock solid clean amp rather then a lanzar! lol!

i know the opti's are good amps but dont know that much about lanzar there close to what they say just a hair lower i think thats were those sundown audios are fricking awesome good clean power x2 sundown > life!! lol!! you know what though using a 2channel amp isn't the way to push a piar of amps man. you should hook those amps in parellel (run them at 1ohm) and buy my sae1200 off of me!! lol!! (sundown amp) p/m me if you are interested!!

hey he should haeve gotten his 4gauge kit off of knu for like 30-40$ shipped. but i have heard about those amps if they say 2krms they really mean around 1800rms. you need a constant 14plus volts to get the 2k advertised power. also i thikn once you upgrade that fues to a safe 120amp mini anl you should be fine. let us know though!!

i found 2 amps! which one is it? also if you need to do 150 amps you shuold step up to 0/1 wire and use a reducer to be safe. (if the amp has 4gauge wire terminals and not 0/1 whihc would be odd b/c 4krms should have at least 1 if nto 2 0/1 power and ground terminals) http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?model=VIBE4000D http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?model=OPTI4000D

and i think a 150 mini anl fuse is to unsafe to use man. the 4awg wire melts at like 90-100 degress and when wire melts it starts a fire so be very carful! also can you find a link and post it of the amp!

wiat your buddy is running a lanzer 4k amp and you are using a 4awg wire to push 4krms? you know the max you can get out of 4awg wire is like 1200rms right? so the fuse blowing is good lol when fuses blow they blow to protect you or your amp. also did you grind away the paint before grounding

how far it is from the battery doesn't matter (as long as it is within 12inch or so) it can even be 3inch or even 1inch! . but it is 4gauge you should have a 120amp fuse in there. no more then 120amps though although 80amps should be enought for 950watts of power so i wonder why the fuse keep blowing? also how many fuses are on the amp? and what is the amp?

o and one more thing you will need a 10x prob! if you have any question you can p/m. I know i am a smart kid but if i can help i can help!

hey man here is my setup for what i did to bench test an amp! I have a oscope, function generator (to make the 50hz tone) a battery for power and some resistor to dissopate the power i also have a 12volt supply for the REM. to set your gain i don't think you would need to use a resistor bank or a sub but i coould be wrong. I used a resistor bank b/c using a sub would screw up my results. anyways long story short i think the amp was shyt so i couldn't do a test lol. chekc it out! keep in mind when you are doing your gain setting you will be in the car and you will have your h/u and a battery so you will not be using a function generator, 12volt supply (REM), resistor bank.

and when did you order your amp I ordered it the last possible day for 425$ pricing around mid aftoon i would say.!!.

YA i got my tracking number today! it will be there on FRIDAY!! score 2 points for the good guys!!

the links don't work for me. But the more the marrier lol! what kind a amps and AH does each of those batteries have? also how much CCA