SSS 18734

I've used RaamMatBXT and I bought 100 sq.ft. of Fatmat off ebay a few months ago and installed some of it. Frankly, i'd rather pay the $120 for 60sq ft of raammat than the 100 sq ft of fatmat. the Raammat was a much better product.

sure... but its just a little bit unnecessary unless your running a shit ton of power.

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http://www.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=115401 I started a thread on CA.com, im trying to come up with a good box, and im not really too happy with the frequency response my 2000SPL's offer using WinISD. This being a more serious, on topic forum, does anyone have any suggestions or answers to the questions asked on that thread? feel free to post either here or on CA.com Thanks! Sergei

agreed. the things I would do for a pair of those...

that looks like a sealed design to me BTW, I would like to have indented sides for this particular box. I suck at carpeting

I've been doing a lot of calculations and I came up with a somewhat finalized box using WinISD. As for being perfectly accurate, im not too worried about that, im not going for perfection, but my main goal here is flat response up until the lower frequencies, where I'd like to have a large peak. The thread that I linked you guys too earlier I entered using the wrong T/S Parameters, which is why I have a huge dip in the mid-high bass frequencies. 2 12" 2000SPL's 4.00 cu.ft @34hz 2 slot ports, 2.5" wide, 11" tall, 28" long +plenty of bracing I have a station wagon, so space and getting the box in is not a major concern, but I would like to keep the demensions around 36" width (necessary), 24" depth, and 14" hight Heres what the graph I came up with looks like: And the box will look something like this, subs facing up, ports facing back. Any opinions? comments? suggestions?

I ran all my wiring (power, RCA, and speaker wire) on the left side of my car for some time. didn't get any noise at all. I decided to run the RCA's on the opposite side of the vehicle when I was re-wiring the system and didn't notice any difference.

why tune to a frequency that you can barely hear? IMO, bigger box, and raise the tuning a bit.

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my subs barely move at relatively loud listening volumes. If its loud enough for you, don't worry, its just an efficient set up.

That rl-P is one sexy sub. Give it a good home in a nice-looking box, man!

lol I get the same feeling everytime I do something new to the car. But i've always figured out a way to make it work!

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pics would help a lot here

i've been on CA.com for some time... its getting kinda old. Was recommended this forum by a few members. Looks pretty good.

Hey guys i'm looking for a set of components. With the $500 im playin around with, I figure I can buy a new sub amp, probobally a viper 1200.1 for my subs. I will use my 300 wRMS x2 amp to power some components, which seems like a lot but i think I could get by with gains set low. do u guys think thats safe? anyway my budget for comps is less than $200. I will be installing the mids in my doors, imaging isnt a major concern for me, and I cant build kicks anyway. I'm pretty sure I will do some sound deadening, so I need comps that will do well infinite baffle. midbass is pretty important to me, and I can't stand harsh-sounding tweets, so I guess that means a silk tweeter is preferred. And they will be overpowered so something that has good power handling is necessary. My doors are deep, almost 4" so that leaves me very flexible on the depth. any suggestions?

Thanks for the suggestions so far but I decided to pick up a pair of RE components. For $115 shipped B) good deal or no? any suggestions or things that you liked or disliked from anyone who has used the RE comps?

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hey what do you guys with experience with the viper 1200.1 think of them? I found a local guy who claims he has a new (not refurbished) one that has never seen power for about $200. I am highly contemplating picking it up.

i'd say your screws are a bit long... use something thats 1.5" long or close. I used 1 5/8 drywall screws and they didn't split the wood at all. And remember to pre-drill with a bit just a little bit smaller than the screw itself. The glue holds the box together more than the screws themselves.