mbarber25

well after about a month or so of driving with no rear view mirror i decided to get a new one. this is the second one i've had to buy since i already broke two. both times the mirror's arm has snapped from window flex/vibration. i have a nissan and they use the same mirror components basically in all their vehicles. one being the arm which is that same on every one. i don't know how familiar anybody is with the material used on these arms but to me it looks like a metal of some kind and plastic. feels strong but obviously snaps easily from all of the vibration. my theory is that since the mirror moves to a certain point and can't move any longer. the arm is the focus of all stress which causes it to snap. so what my question is that is there any tips/hints/secrets/methods etc. to avoid having the thing snap? seems kind of like a pointless question but i figured i'd ask since broken mirrors are probably pretty common. thanks!

updates on the mirror, or competitions? For competitions, the NESPL classes and rules for 2010 are all set now, everything is on the website. We have one date set, it's going to be a TNESPL 3X event, not our NESPL format. haha nah not the mirror.. i meant competitions and your blazer but that's good. i'm excited a.2 here i come... unless i make changes oh and where and when is the one that is already set?

ok well the big 3 are three different main electrical wires under the hood of your car. and they go: -battery negative to chassis (ground) -battery positive to alternator -engine block to chassis (ground) upgrading these wires to 1/0 helps the flow of electricity throughout your cars charging system. the thicker the wire... the better the flow

never go off of an amp's "peak" power. never ever.

capacitors really don't help voltage at all.. but that's a whole nother discussion but what do u mean 720 rms subs? and (800 rms amp) subs dont make power. only take it ---> from the amp. and yes do what jay-cee said and do the big 3... you HAVE to no matter what since you're going to be running 2,000 watts

haha you have noooo idea how much there is to learn. it's not just getting a badass sub and amp... there's a lot that goes with it time, money, dedication, and most important; knowledge. but lucky for you.... you found the SSA forum

ok so check out these names for alternators: -dc power inc, iraggi, mechman these names for batteries -xs power, deka (model 9A31H specifically), kinetik there's more obviously but those are the top names in my head atleast. someone else will suggest more if they feel it's necessary any other q's?

you're going to need to upgrade that wiring to 1/0 and do the big 3 in 1/0 as well first. and yea you'll probably need a HO alternator but i could be wrong can u give a price range for amp? there's a lot of possibilities so it'll be easier to narrow down also a price range for batteries?

haha nice. damn things. but anyways, how's it going? any new updates etc etc?

haha this was me a couple months ago minus the polks and pioneer amp

oh lanta

No not at all, everything that comes out of that build house has been excellent. Nothing wrong talking about the driver itself. i might have missed it somewhere or maybe i'm just a tad confused. why can't we talk about the person that the driver was made for? like the ***'s and stuff? i don't get why. I think I have replied to that in the past on here, but it does not need to be stated publicly anymore. oh alright then. my bad. guess i'll never know then haha

did that end up being the problem? ..must have been since u didn't say anything again

oh my word. excellent christmas present(s).

to each is own but check this out lol camera and filming sucks though haha nobody ever believed me that i was only running like 300 watts

yea i don't use any EQ's. i did twice by accident and never again.

ok so i have an Alpine CDA-9886 as my headunit. and ofcourse i have the ipod hook up so i can use my ipod and iphone. as any one with an ipod or iphone would know that it has the EQ option to use bass boost so what my question is. am i alright to leave the bass boost on the ipod or iphone? or is that still a bad idea. i'm well aware that any type of bass boost or loudness settings on the headunit or amp is mostly all of the time a no no but i've never really been sure about this. it might be different for the ipod settings since it's i guess you can say, "controlled by the headunit" or something of that wording, so those settings might cancel out. but i'm not sure. it's mainly out of curiosity.. i noticed twice that with the bass boost on the ipod that significantly sounds better. thanks in advance!

topic #3 lol. questions again for box people; what kind of amp? what kind of music do you listen to?

well all other things aside just to answer your battery question now the Deka 9A31H is what you want from www.remybattery.com (right now the site isn't working so try again later i guess) excellent excellent battery for the price.

did you look at the recommendations straight from Fi? and i'll ask this for the box guru's since they'll just have to ask later...: what amp are you going to be running? and in what vehicle? and what are the max dimensions of the are that the box will be in?

you'd probably be fine with the SAZ-1500D. being careful with the gains and volume knob would make sure of this. as for a battery for the back.. what's your price range? there's a good amount to choose from. XS Power, Deka, Kinetic, Optima, and so on... you might also need to upgrade the Big 3.. which is what i'd do first. before the battery for the trunk.

i think it means that UPS has received all shipping info. and now theyre just waiting for the package from the manufacturer so they can get it to you.

did you check Iraggi Alternators? he might. if u didn't his store is based on ebay.

good luck and let's see a build log