altoncustomtech

That was most likely the problem. It was a box designed for competition which generally use a higher tuning to peak at the upper 30's and 40's that vehicles generally peak at. Really? There's more differences between our van's than I figured there would be. My box is 42"x17"x17" and fits with room to spare. I'll redo it with a max depth of 16" and make it a little wider too, maybe more like 25" wide and go ahead and up the NET volume to 3cuft.

Yes, but that was a box you purchased. Do you know what it was tuned to? Most likely it was tuned much higher than your current box is which is why the sound wasn't as good. A larger box will be more efficient and have more emphasis on the bottom end, I'll run the numbers, but I don't think a properly tuned smaller enclosure will sound bad at all.

What about something along these lines?

According to the manual for those subs, Earthquake recommends .8 to 1.25cuft per sub. 2.1cuft NET will be a great size for your subs IMHO. So how about an enclosure that only fills half the width of the space in the rear, which should leave room for the stroller beside it (unless it's a REALLY big one)? How's 21" wide x 17" deep x 19.5" tall tuned to 33hz? Or something similar... still working out details...

Here's a UPS driver joining the FEDEX fun! UPS Driver video

Not sure what you mean by the 50/50 rear seat. Do you mean the split bench or the two captains chair's? Mine fits right up against the panel on the side of the van, it just has a trim/beauty panel that goes around it. Here's a couple of the install pics. Maybe there's a possibility you can put them against the side like that behind the rear seat. Keep them in the cargo area like the box. Stack one over the other as they go up the board instead of the side by side-ish style I did, or something along that line. There's places to put this stuff, just have to get a little creative.

Awesome, a cousin to the van I have. I have a 13yo, 10yo, 8yo, and 7yo so believe me I know all about needing the seating. Using an amp rack like mine and the right type of enclosure you should be able to keep everything you have and have room for everything as well. It's awesome finding another person with a system in a mini-van.

I'm going to guess he had the SSF set properly in the first place. He said he's had it for a couple of months, so to me it would have done it long before now if the SSF wasn't set, or so it seems. There's a possibility that maybe a spider has torn, or the box is leaking. Both of which could greatly reduce mechanical power handling. And, if a spider is torn, there's still the chance the SSF wasn't quite set right.

What kind of van is it? It looks like a Venture. If it is I got a good idea for you on the amp rack by doing one like mine. I'll check on things for the enclosure too. It shouldn't be too hard to build something for a pair of 10's that will keep room available for strollers, groceries, etc.

Powder coating would be a great way to do it. Paint at the least would greatly help. Stainless steel in the motor structure isn't an option though since it doesn't magnetize like regular steel the motor's wouldn't work correctly. Adding a paint/powder coat option would be money well spent IMHO.

to the forum!!

Thanx, but this is probably where the disclaimer should come in. I'm in no way any kind of professional nor claim to be one, it's strictly a hobby for me. I'm also not a competitor, have never built a competition build or had the opportunity to personally design and build for very large, very high powered systems, nor do I intend to anytime soon I'll leave that for the professionals. That being said, I'm sure there's people who will find problems with the design and that's fine as I'm not perfect and I'm sure it could be done better.

Okay, here goes it. Got you a plan all drawn up. Even though your max dims give's you 6.2cuft gross on that one calculator, that was without figuring driver, bracing and double baffle displacements and also most likely without using the minimum port area that's calculated for that sub which is 102sqin. Using the info you gave, the double baffle, bracing, woofer displacements and the minimum calculated port area of 102sqin yielded a box which was 34"x17"x25.25". Too tall for the max dimensions you gave. So I adjusted the port area down to 77.5sqin of port area which yielded exactly your max dimensions 34"x23"x17". So it's that size, tuned to ~34hz with ~4.5cuft NET internal volume, tuning without the bracing in the box comes to ~32.5hz. I gave those figures the ~ cuz there's still a little space to play with on bracing from what the model shows, which I simply showed as 1.5" dowel rod since it's easy to get, use, and you said you wanted simple. Without knowing exactly how that sub looks inside that enclosure it's hard to figure out exactly where the bracing needs placed, so I figured you can handle that. Now, onto the jollies. Here's a picture depicting the dimensions as a cut sheet. It doesn't show the internal baffle for the double baffle which the dimensions for that are 26.75"x15.5" which I think is easy enough to understand. BTW ignore the orientation (height, width, etc) you see on the cut sheets, that's just the default layout on that. Now, here's some shots of the enclosure sketched up with the dimensions on it with one side pulled back to reveal the internals for dims. And, finally, here's a few of the enclosure as it a finished product. So, there ya go. Hope this helps you on your venture. I do agree with shizzzon, if you don't get this thing properly braced up with single thickness walls that thing could possibly pop a seam or a panel, but I think you can handle this.

Sounds good, I'll draw it up as quick as I can. Let me verify what you're wanting, simple slot port enclosure with sub and port up orientation, double baffle and full bracing to handle the ZCON beast and yeild a 4.5cuft NET volume with 34hz tuning, correct?

to the forum!

Sounds simple enough, post up the dims and I'll try to have it done by tomorrow.

Yes they get a lot of love, they deserve it. Answers to the questions in the order they were asked: I have no idea if anyone's metered them for spl purposes, I don't think most who've bought them intended to use them for that purpose. Ported is generally where they're happiest, though they do quite well in sealed enclosures too. Stack up how? Output, accuracy of reproduction? They sound great, tight and quick when they're supposed to be and brutally deep output when it's called for as well. As about as well rounded a sub as one can get. I would imagine that the subs you listed would likely at least slightly outperform in output at full power since they're all rated at higher power handling. 300 watts is irrelevant when it comes to how "loud" as the enclosure it's installed in and the vehicle it's playing in would have more effect than just the sub that was being used. Just as a gauge, my sister's single 12" DCON in a 2.25cuft ported enclosure tuned to 33hz on the sub channel of a Hifionics ZXi8010 (rated 300wrms@2ohms) gets loud enough to have most everyone who listens to it disbelieving it's a single 12 and often ask to see the back of the enclosure because they swear there's more subs than that in there. It's loud enough for me to honestly say that if all I had was that single sub I would be very happy and would rarely be seeking more output.

That is just awesome!! Now you just need to spend some more time listening to and playing with it and write a good review on it!

I'd be glad to, for free even, LOL.

Awesome!!! Glad to hear it was an easy fix, gotta love easy. That is definitely a nice, simple little install there. It looks real good and very functional too. So no more noise and it's sounding better?

AND, if it is an air leak, imagine what it will do when you get it fixed......

LOL, that's funny, and kewl. Your problem could very easily be an air leak, and not necessarily a seam on the box. I've seen quite a few times where the carpet around the sub mounting hole allows air to leak. Though most air leaks are accompanied with some sort of noise, they don't have to make any to leak. Terminals can also leak, but no matter what it is, a leak has my first suspicion as the cause.

Sorry, all are D2. Bought them to do 3 at 1.33 on an SAZ-1500.

My brand spanking new, only ever tested by Jacob SAZ-1500 that's upstairs in my closet has a little burn mark on the ground screw and a little bit of wear on the same screw from the screw driver (looks like the driver slipped) where they tested it. Can definitely tell someone messed with it and hooked it up, but I also know it happened during testing. Same with a small scratch on the end plate on my SAX-100.4 in my van, came like that out of the box. I'm just trying to point out that anything you see could simply be from the guys testing it.

If it is a Sundown amp, the guys at Sundown have to open the original seals to test every unit that comes in, then reseal it. Having bought three brand new amps straight from them I was never worried about the packaging as I knew it had to be opened to be tested. Just food for thought. Otherwise, why worry about it if it was removed from the packaging just to inspect?