altoncustomtech

I agree with Skizzy 100% the 6x9's will be rendered useless with the sub back there anyway. You money will be better spent on a good set of highs for the front, some deadening and a decent little amp to run them with.

Not a combined length, both 4" ports will need to be 21.5" for that tuning.

There's no need to tune in the high 20's for your application. Also, if you shot me your maximum dimensions I'd be glad to help you with an enclosure design. You'll love the DCON, it's a very good driver.

That frequency response is the -3db response of the driver itself, or where in free air the response dips down by 3db. It is in no way representative of how that driver plays in the enclosure. The enclosure a subwoofer is mounted in and how it is built and designed is what decides the outcome of its response. As for the wiring, you simply run some speaker wire from each of the rear speakers to the speaker level inputs on the amp. You should have already done that for the low level converter, so just take those wires and go directly to the speaker level inputs on the amp.

Nice video, and that girl was a cutie. God what I wouldn't give to be 18 again, lol.

Yep, dustcap is a goner. As I mentioned before, I'm not sure what it takes to replace that dustcap on a full front one like those have but most likely it will need to be sent in for repair.

Damn Teo, I can't wait to see how this thing turns out. I know that with your passion and determination in this it will turn out great. Be sure to soak up all this great information, these guys truly know their shit. I agree with Stefan about playing with the Sundowns. Make a simple box or at least a baffle to mount it in and try to listen to it at the angles and distances you'll have in the car. You'll hear the beaming and other effects they're talking about. With a little work you'll find the frequencies that it begins to have issues with and be better prepared to purchase a driver for the upper end and know where your restrictions are. I like the idea of using the difraction ring to help alleviate beaming issues. Also the idea of using a good full range driver is a good one as well. I love that you're concentrating on SQ over SPL. It's not much, but that's all the input I have. Good luck buddy, I'm looking forward to seeing the progress on this thing!

Here's my orders: Order #1662 Order #1618 Order #620 Order #571

to the forum! Best place to learn the best stuff IMHO. I think you'll love it here.

I don't either, and honestly I've always liked the sub/port sealed into the cabin myself. The sound is cleaner, there's less/no trunk rattle, and depending on the car sometimes it's louder, or sometimes it's not quite as loud. I've done them both with the port up and the port forward with the sub. In my limited experience the ones with the port up semmed to depend upon the size of the car and the shape of the rear deck/window angle as to whether or not it affected the sound any or not. On the half dozen cars I've done it to the ones that seemed to have cancellation problems were smaller cars and had a straighter angle back window. I'm sure there were many other factors as well and I'm no engineer, but that's what I noticed when I've done them.

I think that would depend completely upon whether or not you plan on upgrading your amp in the future or not. You may not be stuffing power down it's throat now, but if you ever plan to then it wouldn't hurt. If you're sure you'll never be upgrading your amp while you own the sub then don't worry about it.

That would depend on the age of the ICON wouldn't it? It it's the older one then yeah it's an easy fix. If it's a newer one the entire front is the dustcap and I would imagine it would have to be sent in for proper repair. Then again, I've never dealt with a sub with a full size dustcap like that so I'm not sure what all it entails, it could be simpler than I imagine it to be. Which style does it have? Someone with experience with the full size dustcaps may be able to chime in more information on this than me for sure.

Thank you for the kind words. You were great to deal with as well bro. Enjoy those 8's!!!

Nothing but good things to say. He told me he'd be buying them last Friday roughly a week before and true to his word he contacted me and paid for them in full. He was understanding when I ran into a snag and couldn't get them shipped the same day and immediately notified me today when UPS contacted him and said they had the address wrong and couldn't deliver them today so that I knew what was going on with the subs on his end. Much to both our surprise UPS was wrong and they were waiting for him when he got home. Hell of a good guy, paid fast, had patience and great communication. Can't ask for a transaction to go better and definitely can't ask for a better guy to deal with!!

Not yet, she goes to college and works nights so it's going to be kinda hard for our schedules to work out, but she's talking like she may be able to do something this weekend!!

Yep, that's what I'm saying. Not a big call for that or anything, but it would be capable of doing so and with a ton of power on tap that way too since the sub channel would be capable of 500 watts into 2 ohms. 300, 300 and 500 each side would be some power to have on tap for a 3 way active setup, especially doing that with only two amplifiers.

It's lookin' good bro. I really hope to get up there this summer for at least the slamology show and check it out.

I'm glad to hear that. What did it replace? What about it impresses you the most? My thoughts exactly. It looks and feels like a super solid amp. Should do very nicely. I thought it was an excellent price for a 5 channel, especially one with the power ratings this one has. It has one of the most interesting controls on it too, it can full pass the 5th channel. That could potentially make it a 300wrms x 3 @ 4 ohms which a pair of these would make a super high powered and versatile 3 way active set of amps with the right processor. Oh the possibilities, lol.

$300 is a fair place to start for sure, though you can expect to add another one or two hundred realistically after you get the sub, amp, wiring and an enclosure. Getting that much stuff stolen sux BIG time, really hate to hear that. I think a single 10 is a nice, easy to hide way to go. Easy to hide, easy to fit, and easy to utilize. D4 or S4, along with D2 and D1 as you'll see along the way also, refer to the coil configuration of the driver you're looking to use. S4 means that it's a single 4 ohm voice coil where D4 means it's a dual 4 ohm voice coil. The different coil configurations allow for different wiring configurations for flexibility. For example the MB Quart Onyx 1500 watt amp will deliver 500 watts into 4 ohms, 1000 watts into 2 ohms and 1500 into 1 ohm. So basically if you get a dual 4 ohm sub, wire the coils in parallel for a 2 ohm final load the amp will deliver up to 1000 watts into it. If you connected a single 4 ohm sub such as the DCON 10 S4 to it then it would give it 500 watts, which would be acceptable as long as you were responsible with the gain and volume knobs. As for the homo down the street, I would imagine that if you followed the advice that you'll find and get on this forum and I think you'll easily achieve that result. If you're just starting out it may be a little bit before you're up to the caliber of these builds, but I think anyone can do it with enough determination, attention to detail and patience.

What exactly are your goals for this system? Believe me I understand not being made of money. I think if you're looking at a good budget build and like the SSA equipment Julian runs then I would highly recommend the DCON line for subs. They may be rated low on the power handling scale but they're still some heavy hitters. A good set of components up front is a budget friendly way to go for the highs. There's no need to worry about rear speakers and honestly it will sound better without using them anyway. There's so many to choose from though that it's hard for me to plug a specific recommendation since I don't get to try out different ones very often. I have heard great things about the Alpine Type R components and they're not terribly expensive. If you can still find them the Image Dynamics CTX series and the Phoenix Gold RSD series were great for the money too. Amplifiers are another tough recommendation since there's so many brands out there covering so many price ranges and performance levels. Cadence has always seemed like a pretty decent budget oriented brand, so does Powerbass and Audiopipe, though I've not had any personal experience with either. My Sundown's have been the best amps I've owned yet, though they're not exactly tight budget oriented they're not too bad either. A lot of people like Hifonics too, and for the money they can perform, but I will swear on a stack of bibles I can HEAR performance issues with them such as coloration of the sound. The ZXi6006 I used to own seemed to accentuate the bass and treble on it's own, leaving the midrange lackluster and muffled by comparison which is horrible for an amp running highs. I could hear a high frequency noise come out of the body of the amp itself on the BXi2006 I had too. My sister's ZXi8010 5 channel runs out of steam just as things really start to get going, leaving the power ratings that's it's said to have seeming a bit like a joke. Enough of that rambling and opinion throwing as it is only my opinion, nothing more. You could keep things simple and use a higher powered 4 channel to run the components with the first two channels and the other two channels bridged to run the sub, or buy separate amps for both jobs. It's entirely up to your preferences and budget. So I'll reiterate, what are the goals for the system? Knowing that can help us all with the recommendations you seek.

No, the sub draws nothing from the amp. Speakers are dumb, they do only what you tell them to do. Your amp and whichever sub you choose will be just fine. You're WAY over thinking this. There is no such thing as under powering a speaker, end of story. Having less than rated power on a given driver does not affect the sound of that driver one bit. If the bass sounds distorted or muddy then there's something wrong with the enclosure it's in or the source material and how it's being processed before it hits the amp in almost all cases. The enclosure decides HOW it's going to sound, the amp simply provides the power to drive it. As long as the driver being used does not have an impedance below what the amp is rated to handle the amp will not be stressed no matter how much more or less power it is rated than the driver, period. All you need to do is pick whichever sub suits your budget the best, make sure the enclosure is well built with plenty of bracing and the correct internal volume and tuning and you'll be just fine.

Looks pretty good to me. Nice job!

No copy or paste, thats odd. The clipboard may be corrupted, or disabled. When you copy something it copys it to the Clipboard so that you can paste it later. check to see that the Clipboard service is enabled. go to START , RUN, Type SERVICES.MSC . Look for clipboard and make sure its automatic, and enabled, and started. If it is. then you may need to try something else.

The Grey text is the specs for the dual 1 ohm coil subs, the white text are the specs for the dual 2 ohm. However, the power handling is 1500 for both. When they updated the cooling on the subs and updated the website they just missed the text there. They're not worried about changing it as they'll have a whole brand spanking new website very soon. These guys are right, you can't under power a sub and it's not going to hurt anything to run them on your amp. The enclosure you put it into will have WAY more to do with it's performance than the amp that's running it and you can always upgrade your amp at a later date. Which, BTW what did you have planned on the enclosure?