altoncustomtech

The red rubber part isn't necessary. The bolt will pop out with some manipulation. Cutting a small slit on either side of the rubber will make the bolt easier to remove, but it's often easier to just remove the whole thing. You could drill it or use a larger terminal, but I don't think it's the best way to do it. Bromo gave a great reason why it's not the best way to do it.

You could do that, but it's not the best way IMHO. Those adapters aren't expensive and will give a much more secure connection by comparison. As I stated up there, you should be able to get them at almost any auto parts store.

^^^^ Like that one too, just not the long version like that. The long versions are for GM vehicles that stack two terminals on top of each other and yours isn't like that.

You need to get a battery terminal adapter. It will connect the factory battery terminal without a problem, but has a bolt on the back for accessories such as the power wire for amps. Like these: There's several different styles of these sold out there. Most auto parts stores carry them too.

Thank you sir! It will look even better when they're mounted with the Bravox CS60K's installed!!

I still want both the CX60CF's if you still have them. Tax refund will be here very soon, consider them mine!!!

That size actually sounds about right to me. So many people get used to the small ported sizes they see recommended by so many manufacturers. I can remember 12" subs from back in the day that required 3 to 3.5cuft enclosures to sound right too, as Jokers10 touched on, many times these days manufacturers recommend things that they know are just wrong so that customers won't count that product out. It looks to me like Powerbass has that size requirement about right.

Got the liner on the baffles. I really like how they turned out so I'm positive at this point that's what I'm going to do to finish the enclosure and the amp rack.

You and me both brother! I've decided to just toss part of the tax refund at them and the XCON to get the ball rolling. Thanks bro... Thanx man! Trying to as best I can, thank you! Jelly? Really? You got way bigger plans for yours than this, mine are the ones who are jelly, lol.

I love the new ink bro!!

Okay, so I'm finally getting a little something done on this. I'm working on completing the door baffles for the Bravox CS60K components so that I can get them installed then get the amp rack built and installed. Hopefully by then the last 8 will have sold and I'll have the XCON and it's PR's coming and a box getting built. Here's the first one with the back cut out. And the second Here they are side by side, and no the holes aren't done yet. I think I've said it many times before, but I love routers. They're versatile and handy tools without which many things in this hobby would be very difficult to build. If you don't have one, go buy yourself a couple, lol. Here's mine getting ready to clean up those cuts with a 1/2" x 1" flush trim router bit. Made this job EASY. It only took 5 minutes to rough cut the holes with the jig saw, it only took 2 minutes to clean them up. Here's the finished holes. I've got them hanging there for sealing purposes. I'm applying some polyurethane to help seal the MDF first. Then I'm going to be covering them with bed liner. That's it until I get the bed liner picked up.

Can you wait for the release of the FCON? Filling the gap between the DCON and ICON with a 600w power rating and are right up the alley on the power of that amp.

CLD alone won't stop rattles. CCF is needed to help with that issue. It really takes an application of multiple products to get great results. CLD and CCF combined does give great results though. I'm looking forward to seeing how MLV helps improve things further!

I've never personally used B-Quiet, but it's really hard to beat the products you get from SDS and Second Skin. IMHO your money is better spent on either of those brands. Some people swear by Audio Technix but I won't comment on them until I've used their product also. I used some old RaamAudio RaamMat BXT II and some Second Skin Damp Pro in my '01 Jimmy and there's NO comparison between the two. It's been my experience that products like B-Quiet and others are very similar to the RaamMat if that helps explain that any.

to the forum!

Mine is mounted under the dash and routed with the RCA's as well. I love that Sundown makes it a remote gain control instead of a remote bass boost control. We rarely ever have the knob turned more than 1/3 of the way up, there's just no need for it unless I'm showing it off. Even then a little over half gets the point across to most people, lol.

Nice amp for a nice price here. I will be buying this one and it's little 75x2 brother if my tax check ever gets here.

Kenwood, Alpine and Pioneer get my vote also. JVC makes decent budget oriented units too.

to the forum!! These guys are right, it's WELL worth any wait for Fi's drivers. I have a pair of 12" Q's in my wife's van and they've been outstanding. I have also installed a pair of 10" Fi X's in a good friend's truck powered by a Sundown 100.2 bridged and they are absolutely unbelievable for the simple 400 watts they're getting. Simply impossible to believe they only cost what they cost. I don't know how you've been designing and building your enclosures before this, but I would highly suggest looking at the enclosure designs that are posted up in Fi's tech section (link directly to the cutsheets for the X series here). You will get the most out of that great driver with that enclosure. Just cut and build according to the plans in the link above, but most of all, enjoy that sub AND this forum!!! We're all here to help however we can!

That's dependent upon several things. There are calculators and formula's for figuring this too.PORT AREA CALCULATOR <-- This one is a pretty popular one. The amount of port area you plan on using depends on the xmax of the driver(s) you're going to use, tuning, and space primarily. The more port area you want to use the longer the port has to be so the more space it's going to either take up in the enclosure or the larger the enclosure has to be to account for the port. Some people don't like using really large ports for SQ related reasons, others love using the biggest port they can possibly fit for more SPL. Your goals, enclosure design plans, and space restrictions are going to dictate the end result.

For that connection it will work just fine. Not nearly as critical as the power and ground connections on the amp for example.

to the forum!!

Those are my thoughts as well. If nothing else, they're a solid and proven performing sub. That being said, I'm not one to go using the same things that everyone around me uses, so I would personally use something different if everyone around you is using the Type R's but that's just me. I like being different.