altoncustomtech

I have gotten both pieces of plexi for my enclosures from Delvie's Plastics. They have about the best prices I've found online, an unreal selection, and the cuts are very accurate as well.

I had done the math to determine the volume of the air each could move at Xmax but I don't know if that actually tells me anything. All it really tells you is how much air they can move in a single stroke, albeit the 12" DCON does move more air than the 10" GCON according to the math, that's really all it can tell you. ^^^I agree, the difference between them will probably not be significant enough to be any sort of deciding factor. The two most important factors are price and space. Are you willing to pay a little more to use a little less space or are you willing to give up a little bit more space and save a few dollars?

I would imagine that the 12" DCON would likely be the better choice due to the extra cone area. I've not had a chance to play with the GCON's but I have had my hands and ears on a 12" DCON and can say with with the utmost confidence that for the price it's going to be really hard to beat. The DCON's ability to play so accurately and still move things around inside a vehicle is amazing for its power rating and price range. I don't think you'd go wrong with either choice but IMHO the DCON is probably the better and more budget friendly choice.

Damn, sure wish I could have thought about this when I was out in LA for work last year. It would have been much more awesome to meet Stephen and see the ZED wonderland than it was visiting the sub par shops I was able to find. If I ever go back I'll have to remember this little detail.

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Thank you guys!

Happy Birthday!!

THANKS GUYS!!!

Unless you're buying new subs there's no way change them to a High Qts sub. As Duran mentioned the High Qts versions have less steel in the coil gap and that cannot be machined that way once the motor is assembled and magnetized. IMHO, if you have four subs that you like the way they work why mess with it? There's a good possibility that if the change in the response was actually that noticeable that you may not like it anyway. A peaky response refers to a high peak at a certain frequency, and therefore the sub(s) are loudest at that point than at higher or lower frequencies. Depending on their placement, the size of the space they're playing in, enclosure specifications and much much more, the peak can be useful or it can be harmful to the end result your ears are hearing. That's why I said, if it sounds good to you then don't worry about it.

I second that. The DCON is a great sub that definitely belies its seemingly low power rating. I have a link to the review I wrote for my sister's DCON in my signature.

Yep, I like the speed of the mobile skin as well. I just wish there was the support for IMing is all.

Alright, call me old fashioned, behind the times, or whatever you like. I recently upgraded to a smartphone, an iPhone 4. It's nice, I love being able to carry my music collection with me wherever I go, check weather on the go and all that other great stuff they're handy for. The one thing I don't appreciate is the limited usability of the forum on the browser. I was busy the entire weekend, but was checking in regularly on my phone. I had several people attempt to IM me, apparently seeing me as online in the status bar at the bottom. However, there's nothing that tells me anything about the IM's on the phone, PM's yes, but not the IM's. At the bottom of the screen on the phone is a button that says "Get the free IP.Board App for iPhone now!" that takes me to the Appstore and shows me the IP.Board app, but it's NOT free they want $1.99 and with the 1.5 star rating and complaints against it I don't think I'm going to buy it anytime soon. I have seen the Tapatalk app talked about, but again there's no sense to me to spend the money on any app if it can't get more of the functionality of the forum than what the browser can. I know there's plenty of you guys who've been using the forum on a mobile device for some time now. Any suggestions?

I actually don't mind the mobile skin too much. I can still access the "most recent" topics list which helps me keep up with the forum, but even when viewing the full site on the phone the status bar at the bottom of the screen with the list of online friends, IMing, and all that isn't there.

Glad to hear you're okay!! I can't imagine how much it's gotta hurt, hope they've got good pain meds prescribed for ya. Good thing the guy was concerned, shows there's at least some decent people out there still.

It's not 15 days MAX. Nowhere on the website is it GUARANTEED to be done and shipping out by the 15th day. I ordered the PR's for the Jimmy on Feb. 27th and was given a 4 week lead time on them. I didn't receive them until the 4th of May. Have patience, it's worth the wait, period.

Looks pretty good. Mike did a pretty good job on the enclosure. One suggestion tho, one of THESE would probably be a good investment for that battery. The fashion in which the positive cables are connected worries me a bit, not to mention a better connection could possibly help with performance as well. to the forum!!

Thank you sir. There will be around 1/4" of space between them. I figure that should be plenty, especially since the amp that will be running the hottest is on top.

Well, it's a kind of progress. I've been working for awhile now to figure out how the hell to fit everything in the back of the truck. What I had originally imagined/planned for the amp rack had to be scrapped once I started getting some measurements and things going. Not enough room to do the neat angles and "floating" look I had imagined in the first place. So then I looked into mounting them angled and such with one on each side and about every configuration I could come up with and none were quite right. So finally I tried this last design out, along with a lot of cardboard templates and it looks like this will work out very well. The XS Power XP950 battery will be located inside/under the amp rack and the SAZ-1500D will simply be mounted flat on the rack with the SAX-125.2 mounted above it using threaded aluminum spacers. It's not a jaw dropper like I was trying to go for in the first place, but it will look good enough and function well which is most important. On to the Sketchup drawings. Here's basically what it will look like when I open the back of the truck. Angle more from the front. You can see the angle for the back of the seats. Here you can see the basic location for the XP950 and where the wheel well will be covered and hidden by the rack. The back cover will be removable for access to the battery. The rack will be bolted down to the back of the truck with three 5/16" bolts. I will also be able to access the wingnuts that will hold the amp rack to the bolts for quick removal when needed.

Here's the one I have. It's held up for several years of some severe beating, left in the rain, etc with no issues. CableYard Impact Crimper

I have no personal experience with any of those amps but years of experience has taught me that in almost all cases you get exactly what you pay for. Many times the more expensive lower power rated amp will make more useable power than the less expensive higher power rated amp. Even if it doesn't the more expensive amp will generally handle abuses better and last longer than the cheaper amp. Again, I can't help you with any of those specific units, but I can recommend that buying the one with the best reputation is generally the best way to go.

Well, it's official... work has once again blown my chance at going to Slamology.... I'll be in Franklin KY during the show... Have a good time for me guys!

If you're not looking to spend the money on a hydraulic crimper (and I don't blame you considering the cost for a good reliable one) then you could always get an impact crimper for about $12.

Who built the enclosure? If you don't know the dimensions how can you (or us for that matter) be certain it is actually tuned to 33hz? There have been many people who went to a local shop, asked for an enclosure built to "X" specification and it got built to whatever the shop wanted to do. They figure they can get away with it because so few people actually know how to calculate for or physically check enclosure tuning. To check for certain what the enclosure is tuned to get some test tones that range from 50hz down to say 30hz. Turn the volume up to where the subs move halfway decent and start playing 50hz. Carefully watch the subs' movement as you slowly progress through the tracks toward 30hz. The frequency at which the subs move the LEAST is the frequency the enclosure is tuned to. If it's higher than 33hz by very much that is most likely your issue with deep bass, if it is actually close to 33hz then your issue is in the acoustics.

Can you give more specs on your enclosure? Have you tried moving it around, playing with placement and loading? How loud the deeper bass range can get is far more enclosure and environment dependent than anything else. Those BL's should get plenty loud enough at plenty low enough frequencies to make most people happy. I would imagine that you've got an enclosure issue or an environmental issue with the acoustics affecting that range of frequencies or you're simply expecting more than the BL's are delivering and need to build with a larger format driver.

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