altoncustomtech

How's this for an enclosure for you. 1.5cuft NET with 32hz tuning 30"w x 16"h x 11.25"d with 21.75sqin of port area (1.5" x 14.5") should net you better results than the one that the 12volt calculator made out for you. If those dimensions will work for you, I'll post up a cut sheet for you as well.

I can appreciate that, but in order for a ported enclosure to work properly it will have to be sized and appropriately spec'd out. Let's start here, what are your maximum dimensions? What is the orientation you want, sub up port facing rear, sub and port rear, sub up port up? Got the 1.5cuft and 32hz tuning, with the max dimensions we can hopefully get you a better design. EDIT: Also what sub are you using in this enclosure? We'll need to know what it's displacement is as well to tune it properly.

That's NOWHERE NEAR enough port area. You've got the right idea on how to build it but some serious work needs done on the numbers you're looking at there. What frequency is that tuning supposed to be at with those port dimensions? Are you restricted by space, is that the reason why you made the port so small?

It's been a week. I forgot to mention all dealings on this will go through me, you won't have to put up with him on this. Price lowered to $230 plus shipping from 47557 BUMP

It's been a week. I forgot to mention all dealings on this will go through me, you won't have to put up with him on this. BUMP

to the forum!

Thanks man, if it works out it would be great, but at this point it's just too tough to make the plans to be there. Thanks also on the comment on the craftsmanship. If I were really worried about it I would have gone through a bit more labor and got it really looking good. I didn't because of all the work I do with the truck. I didn't see the point in making the amp rack super pretty as it will get beat up pretty good with firewood, dogs, etc. Which is the biggest reason I'm making the enclosure removable, so I don't have to worry about damage to the sub or PR's. I'm also really glad it gives you some ideas for the future, I think it's one of the biggest reasons build logs should be done. My family and I wish all the best for you and your family as well brother. Times are tough, we all need to hang in there.

Thank you for the kind words brother. If all goes according to plan it will be one of my favorite personal builds as well. Robust fairly accurate output in a smallish size is the goal. Still a ways to go before we know if the goal is met.

Okay, the amp rack is done, installed and the 125.2 is running the Bravox components like the clean powerhouse I expected it to be. Those components have been well worth the modest price I paid for them while using them on the HU and with the amp running them that is even more evident. I have A LOT of tuning to do yet with the new found power, but so far the difference is exactly what I expected. Although I do have to say that the internal amp on the HU is definitely a powerful little chip and ran the Bravox's quite well considering the low power. As for the amp rack, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out except for a few little things, nothing big enough to really bother me, I just know I could have done better with it. On to the pictures. Here's the pics of the final assembly. Went together just like it was supposed to. Here's a couple of pictures of the ground for the battery and 125.2. I bolted the grounds to the floor with a cable running to the frame. I also covered that bracket on the frame and where the cable bolts to the bottom of the floor with the bedliner I used on the amp rack to keep the connections clean and prevent rust but didn't figure it was picture worthy. The pics jump right to the installation at this point. I just didn't see the need to include everything in between. Here you can see the amps mounted on the rack with the bedliner all done on it. This is one of my little fuck ups from getting in a hurry that I'm hating. I got my router with roundover bit laid out and ready to go before I applied the bedliner but got in such a hurry that I completely spaced picking it up and using it. So none of the edges or corners are rounded like they were supposed to be. I figure if something ever happens and I have to redo something I'll do it then and refinish the bedliner on it. Got the cables all pulled out straight and ready for it to go in. Here's the XP950 sitting ready to be connected and installed. Got the battery connected and set in place in the rack. Everything was measured so closely that I won't have to worry about it going ANYWHERE in there. Getting all the wires and cables pulled up through the board and laid in place. Here's the rack set in place over the carriage bolts. As you can see with the bolts and wing nuts holding it I shouldn't have to worry about the rack going anywhere and it makes it quite easy to remove again if needed. The last one is a bit of a reach, but again, everything was measured so well that my arm still easily fits in there to get to it. Got the wires pulled up and connected to the amps. The power wires connected to the front battery. And lastly the finished product. The things that annoy me with it finished is that the top board of the rack isn't as close to the side of the truck as I had planned, even though it was just right on the test fit it somehow came out with about a 3/8" gap. Not bad, but it shouldn't have been that far off. The other thing, if you notice the empty hole on the back of the rack there, is that the remote knob wire ended up being about 8" too short to reach the 1500. Easily remedied with a phone wire extension cable, but still annoying. So, besides the lack of rounded edges, the gap and the short wire it pretty well came out like I planned. Onto the enclosure build!!!

LOL. Thanx for the vote of confidence. It seems like a solid plan anyway. We'll see how it works out. I've got pics of the continuing progress on the amp rack to post up but I think I'm gonna save that for after it's in tomorrow. Since the enclosure has now undergone a slight change I think I'm gonna forego the posting of a design and only upload a few teaser pics on it as well. For fun.

At this point I just have no idea. So many things are up in the air around here that worrying about making it up there for the finals is pretty much at the bottom of the list, unfortunately. I'd love to go but with everything going on with no real point of settling down in sight, I just don't know how to manage making it. Thanks for the link, read, re-read and re-re-read it again. It seemed like that was the way I remembered it somewhere in a dark corner of my memory, but I wanted to be certain. I did know that up or down was definitely not recommended.

Believe me brother, I know how that goes for sure. I'll be up that way again before too long for more doctor related stuff for the wifey. If she's feeling up to it maybe we can arrange a little visit time then. Also, amp rack is assembled. It's glued, clamped and awaiting the night to be ready for bedliner tomorrow. All I've got left to do with the truck is drill and bolt the grounds into place back there and when the bedliner is done curing Sunday It's INSTALL it time. I'll have power pumping them Bravox's then and it's on to the enclosure build. Which reminds me I still need to find out if it's okay to put the sub facing up and the PR's facing rear or not. I'm affraid of the affect of the weights on the PR's causing them to sag with all three facing up. Maybe someone can chime in on whether or not it's okay to arrange the dual PR's in that fashion or not. It's either that or face them all rear, which is doable, but no where near as neat to look at through the plexi. LOL

Thanx bro. It shouldn't turn out too bad, although I have to admit I'm having a couple of thoughts on some changes. Thank you man. In keeping with how I like to do things, everything, including the battery, will be hidden except where the wires poke through to the amps. Thanks brother. Missed you last weekend BTW. Thank you. It only seems appropriate to make sure the fit and finish is about as good as the function. Besides, that's dead space there between the wheel well and tailgate that's perfect for the battery and things of that sort. Helps keep as much of the cargo area as possible open for hauling stuff.

Okay, so I FINALLY got started on the amp rack this week while taking a little vacation time (when the wife isn't screwing it up that is). I'm down now to getting all the holes for the wires to pass through to the amps drilled, then I can do the final assembly and get the bedliner applied. After that it's as easy as installation, lol. Here I've got the bottom and side cut out and getting them assembled. Total length for the rack is just shy of 30" and it's 8.75" tall. Here's the picture of the mounting. I drilled 3 carriage bolts through from the bottom and put nuts and washers on them to compress the carpet. Then used a washer and a wing nut to secure the rack to the floor. Here I've cut out a template for the top of the amp rack to follow the side of the interior. Here's the amp rack sitting in place with the cut out for the XSPower XP950 battery for the rear. Finally here's the top and access door cut out and the amp rack mocked together to ensure everything fits snug together and looks like I had planned. Came out fairly close so far. Hopefully I'll get it done and installed before the end of the weekend so I can see what these Bravox components can do with some real power applied.

It just depends on the shop. I've seen a few that wouldn't do it if you didn't buy the equipment from them, and I think the same rules for whether or not you feel comfortable with the shop still applies. I would imagine if you brought everything to them that the install would be done, being done correctly is a different matter. That's why I said to go in and talk to them on several occasions, see their build books (most shops have them in some form), and most importantly ask them specifically about the items you're going to have them install. If they give you what sounds like a BS answer about something then chances are they either know nothing about it (and therefore probably never installed it) or they don't have enough experience with it to trust the installation can be performed correctly, or even the way you want it done. I've always done the work myself. I've never hired a shop to install anything, ever. The closest I've came to that was having Argent Audio build an enclosure for my sister's DCON because I simply didn't have the time to do it myself. It turned out perfect tho and if they still built enclosures I wouldn't hesitate to use them again if I had to. It was built to the exact specs I sent him and shipped to me in perfect condition. Otherwise I've always done it myself. The guided help I'm recommending above is the same questions I ask and such when I visit shops when traveling for the company I work for. It's taken years of practice, but I can get a general feel for a shops abilities and experience after about 30 minutes of conversation with sales and install techs. I use that simply to help educate myself about the kinds of work that's being performed, the common trends, and how it can translate into work back home. Even tho car audio work here has been at a near stand still for a long time, it's still nice to know what the high school kids are asking for, lol. (is joke, is joke) Hope that's some kind of help anyway.

jroadtatts is using a pair of 12" Aura's for midbasses in his Honda with some great success. 3" full ranges are handling his highs and a 15" BTL sealed to the cabin is his sub. The car is very musical and gets loud enough to rattle fillings in your teeth. IIRC he's using the H100 with a 9887 for processing. It can be done, but not without much care to the installation and tuning adjustments. He had originally started with 10's but blew them trying to get too much out of them before he went to the 12's. It took him quite a bit of time to get it all right as well. It's definitely not something a person can just throw together and as ///M5 said, the Skar drivers may not be well suited to perform that task. I personally wouldn't tackle something like that myself until I had a fair bit more experience with active setups and getting used to the kinds of adjustments needed to make it work.

FINALLY got to work on the Jimmy again. Got all the boards for the amp rack cut today and the bottom and side assembled together. Will be working on the mounting tomorrow and if all goes well final assembly will be completed and I can begin applying the bedliner tomorrow as well. BTW, never heard anything this weekend Chop, missed ya.

It's really not all that complicated, it just takes a little time to do right. This is the log Aaron was talking about in his Mazda. It's really simple enough that you should be able to install this stuff on your own. As to finding out whether or not a shop can do it would depend completely on whether or not you feel comfortable enough with them after talking to them multiple times, seeing pictures of their own build processes, and talking to customers that they've done that type of work for before. If they're not willing to provide you with those three things then chances are its not a shop you want to be doing any business with at all. I'm pretty opinionated on that subject though as we've not had more than one shop around my area whose work was ever worth a damn anyway and the rest just ripped people off on a regular basis.

My sister has a 12" DCON in a 2.25cuft ported enclosure tuned to 33hz on a Cadence F100.5 5 channel amplifier that's running PG RSD 6.5" components in her front doors and JBL coax's in the rear doors. Impious is right, an amp like that does limit your upgradeability in the future, but in the same respect all the reasons you listed are the reasons a person would look at an amp like that in the first place. My sister's Durango sounds absolutely amazing, the output of that DCON in that enclosure and on that amp is seriously enough to have anyone who's looking for a serious daily listener quite happy. I've said it before and I'll say it again the sound and output of that single 12" DCON would be enough to make me happy and is quite comparable to the sound and output of my pair of 12" Q's on a Sundown 2k. Obviously the Q's will get a little louder, and the impact from them is much more intense, but if I were looking to buy equipment and didn't know anything about what my Q's can do I could have saved myself a considerable amount of money getting something like a pair of DCON's and a smaller amp and calling it a day. In my very honest opinion they're that good of a sub. Saving time, money and saving yourself some install time as well going with something like a 3 or 5 channel amp is not a bad idea if you're not one who is always buying and trying out new equipment. If you're wanting to make this purchase once and intend on it lasting awhile then I don't think it's a bad idea as long as the power of those amps meet your output goals.

Wow. I'm surprised by the responses. I've used the compression fittings quite a few times, including several fittings in the van and in my Jimmy. The nuts will show you exactly where you need to strip the wire at for the best possible connection and they definitely offer more surface contact. I do agree with shizz about the battery terminals. My first time using them was in my Jimmy and I've not been real impressed with them yet. If you slide the nut down over the wire with the jacket still on it, where the nut stops is where it needs stripped at. After that it all works pretty good. One big note is that the best thing to use to tighten them with is a good open end wrench or even a line wrench as the nuts can be easily collapsed with a crescent wrench.

Up for sale here is my little brothers fully loaded Fi SSD 18" D2 subwoofer. Like the SAE-1200D it's NEVER been connected, not for any reason ever. It's been stored in my closet since it was received except for taking it out to show to others. I'm not sure of the options that were available for them back then except for BP Power, but I do know we ordered it with all the options that were available and one of the pictures shows the BP Power plug at the top of the pole vent. Fi Car Audio SSD 18" D2 fully loaded. 10/10 cosmetically and mechanically - it's only ever been handled by hands, NEVER mounted, NEVER powered. He's asking $230 + shipping, 47557 is our zip for those who want to price shipping. Here's the pictures of the sub.

That I knew, I just figured there were more like 6, 8 or 10 people there to build stuff. It's hard to fathom how 3 people can keep up with the number of orders. They must have the build process down to a fine science is all I can imagine.

Only three? How the hell can they even begin to keep up?!?!!???!!!!? Ah, well completely disregard my response. I thought there were more people than that. Not alot more or anything, just more, lol.

That will be sweet! I love these cars. Is that a crate motor or custom built? 350 or BB, looks like a SB in the pics? What trans are you running? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm an old school gear head at heart. My dad was a big time motor head.

X3 it sounds like the dustcap isn't properly attached to me as well. I LOVE SSA and Fi products, but it sure as hell seems like there's someone over at Fi who's not doing their job right during production. It's too bad there's no serial numbers on the units, it might make it possible to track down who did what on which units and who it might be that's slacking.