altoncustomtech

Pretty much exactly what you're thinking is how I did it. I cut out a frame that was 1.5" larger than the 12x24 window. Used my router to recess a 3/8" wide and deep lip into the frame and the plexi itself. Then sealed the hell out of it with silicone and glued it to the front panel of the enclosure. The window on the front panel of the enclosure is an inch smaller than the window for a good sealing overlap. It's been a successful way of doing it so far. I was going for and like the look of the deep recess to the plexi window. The plexi sandwiched perfectly between the frame and the enclosure front and hasn't had any sealing problems yet and hopefully never will.

I didn't correlate the calculation of the port area to enclosure size, that's not what I meant by that statement. We both know the so called "rule of thumb" if calculating XX.xx sqin of port area per cuft of enclosure size is not the right way to calculate port area. As you know, the more port area you have the longer the port has to be to maintain the same tuning. That causes the port to rob more displacement inside the enclosure causing the enclosure to have to be larger to maintain the correct NET volume. That's what I meant about the size and not going any larger. I used the maximum dimensions I was willing to give up and that was the maximum amount of port area I could utilize and still maintain my preferred 4.2cuft of net volume, 32hz tuning and stay within my limits. I do agree, using less than the ideal port area can and does still yield very usable results, and thanx on the enclosure, tho it's Chevy Orange, not red. lol

Actually I wish I could have made the port larger. Only reason I didn't was because of space. The enclosure is 4.2cuft NET tuned to 32hz and is 17" square by 42" long. Making it any larger was really just out of the question. I'm sure that if it were me I wouldn't be using a single 6" aero, it's just not enough port area alone. A pair of them would probably suffice though ideally it should be more.

Thanx. It's tuned to 32hz and sounds absolutely amazing. Best subs I've owned so far, tho I've yet to get to use my XCON so that may or may not change soon. We'll just have to see.

Easiest way to do it is to create a free account at photobucket.com, upload the pictures there, then copy the "IMG Code" link and post it in the thread. I have a pair of the old series Q's, I think the change happened in 2010, not 2011. If yours has the double slugs, it's the older model like mine. If it's the single slug motor then you've already got the new model. Here's what the motor looks like on my Q's. Here's my enclosure with a plexi window too, just for reference. Got the plexi from Delviesplastics.com, 3/4" thick. Works out really well for working it into the MDF since it's the same thickness. Hope that helps.

BUMP C'mon guys... I figured this would have sold fast. It's a great amp for a great price. If I had any use for it I would have bought it from him myself. BUMP

BUMP As stated above, this is a NICE sub here. Never been used, never been mounted, never even seen power from a battery to do a polarity test. NEVER BEEN USED! This sub is also considerably more expensive new with all the options like this one has. BUMP

to the forum Bob! If you've come looking for knowledge there's not a better repository of information available on the internet nor a better bunch of guys to help explain it all.

Happy Birthday dude!

^^^ I agree. That's a VERY respectable job for your first enclosure! I've seen MUCH MUCH worse from kids around here on their first enclosures. Hell, my first enclosures were a joke. I still have them, I'll get a pic and post it someday. Of course I was 13yo when I built my first ones so at least I have a little excuse, lol. Honestly, that's not bad at all for a first time attempt at building an enclosure. I'm sure you learned a bit from it and the next one will be even better. Congrats!!

There does exist an actual "golden" ratio, but it's not practical for use in the car audio world in most cases. Believe me what you have lined up is just fine. Monroe City is about an hour North of Evansville or an hour South of Terre Haute. It's a little spot on the road just outside of Vincennes. If you were close enough I'd be more than glad to help out however I could. Using plexiglas in an enclosure is typically done by guys with a little more experience, but I think anyone with build experience and a good eye for details could do it. Hell the first time I used plexiglas in an enclosure was on the box for the Fi Q's in my wife's van.

Lol. It's not that bad. I've seen much worse. It's an XCON actually that I'm using though. I ran ur numbers real quick and tho you did include the driver displacement the RE calc does not figure for port displacent either. Although your tuning will probably still be pretty close. I would build it and see how it goes if I were you. Also, nice choice on the sub. My sisters DCON is quite the amazing little sub. Be sure to really take ur time if u do go with the plexiglas. If its not done just right it will leak and the enclosure will not sound good.

to the forum! Be sure to ask plenty of questions. We'd rather see you spend your money right the first time!

Happy Birthday dude!!

Congratulations on the purchase!! You're going to love that sub for sure. Like others have said, that box may be rough and not as visually appealing as you would like, but we all have to start somewhere and everyone's first box was rough. It's like any other skill, it gets better with time and the more you do the better you'll get. Don't be afraid to post the pics up, no one here is going rip on it or anything. Aside from the occasional tease we do strive to give good constructive criticism and most members here are very respective of that and respectable people. So go on and post up some build pics, I'd love to see them as well.

You're welcome man, that's why we're on here. I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it. I'm a proud owner of a 10" XCON as well, though I'm still working on getting things done and getting it installed. I'm going to be using passive radiator's with mine rather than a standard ported enclosure. I'm excited to hear what you think of yours, I know I want to hear mine really badly!

If nothing else you should be able to order a new one from Fi. The connectors the tinsel leads are soldered are just screwed to the connectors in that black plastic piece. It should be quite simple to repair as long as there's no other damage. Sounds like you're about to take advantage of a great find! EDIT: LOL, and there's Nick to the rescue! Jumped in there just before me.

to the forum! Where at in Illinois are you from? That's a big build you're about to embark on, looking forward to seeing the build log.

In the center should be just fine. Things are looking pretty good. Looking forward to hearing what u think when it's done.

Thanks. Not only did it save him from a whistling port, but the tuning should be correct as the dims I gave him account for sub and port displacement as well which I doubt the calculator at 21volt does.

I don't recall the terminals being on a "plastic" piece on my Q's or any of the Fi subs for that matter. hmmmm looking for pics now... EDIT: Verified in pics of my Q's the terminals are mounted through holes in the frame with a plastic spacer/insulator. If he's referring to a plastic tab that they're on then I would worry about the validity of the item. If he's referring to the plastic spacer/insulator then it shouldn't be a big deal to repair. BTW I agree it shouldn't be left and used loose, if it doesn't tear something on the tinsel leads up it could short the amp....

The smell from silicone should disappear as soon as it cures, or at least the worst of it. Glue has a tendency to shrink when applied like that and crack, which doesn't do much to help seal any seams, especially if there's a gap. Other people use fiberglass resin and things of that type, but the smell from them is even worse than the silicone. It's not much help, but that's my general findings. Silicone is just hard to beat for the job.

230 was the original price you had listed lol. I edited the OP.... EDIT: Went back and changed the font to bold and red in color to show emphasis.

It's in the ballpark of where you need to be anyway. Others may and will have some other ideas, or maybe even a better design, but at least we're getting you headed in the right direction.

If this doesn't come out clear enough let me know, I'll email you a PDF.