altoncustomtech

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I would definitely build them before buying. My last employer let me install a system in the company truck which was a '98 F150. I used my router to lightly recess the adapters so the speaker wouldn't rub the panel. I did this on two adapters per door, sandwiching the sheetmetal between them. This gave me a 1 inch thick, super stiff baffle to mount the mids to. Hell, I think I may still have them somewhere. I wish I had a good recommendation on a set of components for you. My limited sampling of the many offerings, especially in your price range, just leaves me with little to offer. I like my Bravox CS-60K's and my Atlas components. The Phoenix Gold RSD's weren't too shabby. I own a set of the Image Dynamics CTX's, but haven't listened to them yet, same as the Bravox CS603CF's. I've heard a few sets of JBL's of various models that were all different, but good.

to the forum! To continue the broken record, that amp will run the DCON very well.

I donated. Glad to help out!

I'm quite certain their not AGM. I had a BUNCH of these given to me by the place I work for (so they didn't have to pay disposal fees) and had nothing but trouble with them on the stuff I used that had a lot of vibration such as the kids' power wheels vehicles, go cart and even my DRZ400. For stationary stuff like UPS's, security systems, etc. they're great batteries and will last a long time. I don't think they're trustworthy in any mobile application though.

The issue will be in charging. The battery that ak11667 mentioned may have a 12v tap for the electronics on the car that can't handle the 16+ volts of charge, but all cells inside the battery are the same and the battery as a whole is designed to charge as such. Having a seperate 2v cell that has it's own internal resistance differences and charging properties would probably not charge correctly when paired up with a 12v battery like that. Why do you need a 14v battery for in the first place? If you're not competing the two extra volts aren't going to make any usable difference for you anyway.

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Um, I'm pretty sure that everyone tried to explain to you what you needed to do in your other thread, and it sure wasn't continuing on with the smallest possible enclosure and minimal port area as you were already trying to do. A larger enclosure, with more port area is what you need to do. Getting a larger amp wasn't going to help, and neither is trying to go with this plan. I really don't want to sound like a prick, but dude we gave you the info you needed in your other thread.

Okay, here goes nothin'

If you can go another half inch on depth to 19" then you can get 28"W x 14" H x 19"D, 2.2cuft NET with the same port and tuning.

I have one already drawn up and ready to go that would do very well for the DCON. 30"w x 14"h x 18.5"d in size, comes to 2.2cuft NET with 37.5sqin tuned to just under 32hz. If that fits I can post up a drawing and cut sheet real fast since it's already done.

Cut, but not assembled, correct? If so, you could cut another half an inch off the front, slide the first port wall out flush with the front (which would make a final 2" wide opening), as for the port you need the first wall cut to 11", then the remaining 16+ inches would make the second port wall. You'll have that 1.87cuft NET enclosure tuned to right around 32hz with the boards you've already cut.

If you've already cut the panels for the DCON enclosure, which ones do you have? Or in other words, did you cut the front & back, both sides and the top & bottom all to those same dimensions (essentially creating a sealed box)? If you did, then buying an aeroport would make the most sense at this point. All you'd have to do is cut the hole for the sub and the port and you'd be set. If not, and you've got the front cut short for the slot port, then you need to post up the dimensions of all the panels you have cut already so we can help you get figured out what you can do with what you already have. This would make perfect sense of why you've been so stuck to these dimensions.

The problem with an opinion is just that, it's an opinion. What sounds fantastic to me could sound like absolute crap to you. You're right though, there's so damn many brands and models out there in your price range it's hard to even know where to begin to look and be any kind of objective about it. I was just looking at sets in this price range yesterday for someone local and found some great deals online on some Alpine Type R's and X's (if you're willing to spend another $20-$30), found some JBL Power series P660C's on EBAY for $125 shipped (I'm liking those at the moment), and the list goes on and on. Some sets sound great in some vehicles dropped in the stock locations with no sound deadening, baffles or anything, other's need some special installation work to get the best sound from them. I've found there's no one way to recommend anything anymore. There's simply too many variables to know what could work right out of the box. I've come to trust brands like Alpine, JBL, Image Dynamics (dunno about the new owners/management tho), Focal, and several others of the like to work fairly well in most applications without much issue. I pretty much have to buy and try everything at this point since there's no place to go and listen to the vast majority of what's available and even when you do listen to it 99% of the time its not installed anything like I'm going to install it so the listening experience and the opinion I gather from it are flawed from the start.

4" is the biggest size you could use and keep the tuning and dimensions you're wanting. Yes that's for the DCON, but with the aeroport the box volume can go all the way up to the full 2.25cuft and have a little room left over actually. Like I said in an earlier post, we'll get everything squared away on the DCON enclosure before working on the one for the Skar's. Here's a LINK to PartsExpress and they're listing for the 4" Aero. Food for thought, if space is going to be just as much an issue for the Skar's as it is for this DCON build, an Aeroport may be something to consider for them as well.

It would, if he's got one to use or is wanting to buy one, it would help solve the issue he's having with fitment for certain. OP, after running the numbers I can get 1.87cuft NET with 24.49 sqin of port area (12.25 x 2) tuned to 32.25hz inside your required dimensions. Not exactly optimal, but it's not choking it either.

Best I can tell is that it's not accounting for the two port walls that make up the port inside the enclosure. That seems to be where the math is taking me. From what I see, the Torres calc has not calculated it correctly and the tuning is going to be WAY off. If I multiply .75 (wood thickness) by 12.25 (port height) by 28 (calculated length of port, not physical) I get .143cuft, that's REALLY close to the .12 difference I'm seeing between the Torres calc and my calculations. If you could go 14.5" deep it would work with the 32.xx tuning...

Once I started actually working through the numbers it seems something is a bit off. One thing, for certain, is that you didn't include the sub displacement. That's not a real big deal though with the small amount of displacement of the DCON it will only raise it a little over 1hz. The other issue is that what I'm seeing calculated in the Torres calc and what I'm calculating aren't jiving. It's usually really close to my calculations, but for some reason or another this time something is a fair bit off. I'm calculating more port displacement volume than the Torres calc. Generally I find where I miss a number somewhere, or fat finger one, but I've ran it quite a few times and get the exact same result. I need someone else to help verify what I'm seeing because if my numbers are correct by the time sub displacement is factored in the tuning is all the way up to 42hz, not good. I'm seeing .6cuft displacement for the port, the Torres calc shows .48. That's for the same 28" calcualted length for the 32.27hz tuning. I did this same thing for Shogen recently and the numbers were pretty much dead on, so I'm not sure where it's going wrong at here. I'd be glad to help you with this right after we figure out what's going on with the DCON box.

If I were you I would just build it as is. Depending on where the enclosure is located and a few other factors it may not be noticeable. My sister's box doesn't have much more port area than the one you've made up and port noise isn't an issue with it. I personally would rather have the extra volume than the extra port area. As for the board cuts, I can draw you a sketch up model and cut sheet if you'd like.

Everything looks pretty decent. Are those the MAX dimensions you can use though? The one thing I see is that it could use a bit more port area and that will require the box to be a bit larger. Otherwise, if you can't spare the room it will work fine. The only issue could be port noise.

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I'm still looking for the XCON one that is as good as the ZCON one in ur post there.

There's such a large number of choices out there, all I can do is recommend some that I've listened to personally and liked, but even that isn't really a good way to make a purchase decision. The two biggest problems with recommending speakers is that what sounds good to me may not sound good to you, and EVERY installation is different. Those differences affect the overall sound of the speakers and can affect how good they sound even to the same person from one vehicle/installation to the next. The best recommendation is to get out there and listen to as many sets as you can and try to understand what you like and don't like about what you hear. Try to learn how the installation affects the output and try to choose accordingly. Other than that any purchase will be a crap shoot. Buy and try. That, unfortunately, is how I've had to make the majority of my own purchases due to the fact I have a VERY limited selection to choose from to listen to and a limited understanding of the how, what and why it does or doesn't sound good, perform adequately, and whether or not it's a good choice or not. I've not been able to find a one stop, tell all source of information that explains in detailed layman's terms exactly what makes one speaker better over another for MY situation, or how the T/S specifications translate to how a speaker is good for one situation and not another. I've found information on those subjects, for certain, but understanding EXACTLY how to use that information is still beyond my scope of grasp at this time. I know just enough to make myself VERY dangerous.

Most Ford vehicles have 6x8 speaker openings. You'll have to make an adapter for whatever you decide to do. Yes, I do think that concentrating your time, money and effort on just the front speakers is a good idea. Having items match is okay, god knows I've done it before, but it's not necessary. If it's going to be a show car that lots of people are going to see, possibly even being judged at a show, it makes sense to do and possibly even need to happen. I for one would rather have the best equipment I can afford of whatever brands it took to complete my goals than settle for whatever a brand sells that matches another piece of their equipment that has no direct bearing on the performance for the sake of it matching.

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