altoncustomtech

You're not kiddin' at all. I wanted one of these bad when the post about Best Buy went up, by the time I had the funds available they were gone....

Payment sent.

I'm buyin it!

Everything has some inherent distortion in it, in some shape or form, even if it's barely measurable. It was pushing that poor 8" beyond it's limits. Between that and the horrible quality of the mics they put in these cameras I hear a lot of distortion. Now, when I was standing there recording it, as long as I didn't push that free air 8" beyond it's limits it sounded fine. I bet it would drive just about anything just fine. I have no direct experience with it tho since we've never actually installed it, aside from what we did for the video and pictures.

Just realized I never posted the video. Watch and judge for yourself. LPF was turned all the way up, SSF all the way down, and gain about half way just like the photos above. http://s889.beta.pho...CN0324.mp4.html Not a great video, but it does demonstrate it working. It seems to work just fine. Without installing it in the Jimmy or Van I can't do much else to test it or prove it.

It was bought used. Every mark, scratch and imperfection on it was there when he got it. It's never left the closet in my house except for showing to someone or for pictures until I hooked it up to show that it works.

That's true, and I agree no one helped him with the specific question, but it so so damn hard for me to help someone do something I KNOW is wrong. lol

They definitely look schmexy. Is there any chance we could get some T/S data? To read the description on the website of them they sound like an amazing set for the price, but I've been skeptical about that kind of information lately. I'd love to have some hard data available for the guys who know how to read and use it and see what they say about the set. Hell for that matter, I wish there was a handbook or tutorial on how to read and understand what the data really means and how to use it properly.

He's sanded a good spot for his ground. Also to clarify, I said he could use a piece of wire from the jumper cables as a TEMPORARY ground wire until he got things straight. It's a 240 watt 2 channel with a 25 amp fuse, just about any clean piece of metal should work for him. As for the issue, I think it's gotten to the point that he really needs to go buy a cheap little DMM. Something other than the ground is going on.

Happy Birthday Jon!!

You can always try removing the speakers from the rear deck, deadening the deck, trunk lid, and other areas of the trunk itself, trying the box facing forward and back, moved as far as you can forward or toward the back, and any other combination that a person can think of. Even if all that didn't work, you're not out any money moving things around or pulling the rear speakers, and deadening the trunk and all associated panels is something you should do anyway, then worry about new subs. My money is on you noticing a difference by opening the rear deck, deadening, and finding the sweet spot for those 12's.

To me, your line of thought is completely wrong for the goals you're wanting to achieve. If the EXACT same subs, box and amp in another vehicle get louder and give the output you're looking for then there's nothing wrong with your subs, box or amp, you need to work on the installation in the vehicle. Your money would be WAY better spent ensuring you're getting the most out of your current vehicle than buying all new equipment and still having issues getting the bass out of the trunk and into the cabin of the car. The vehicle not allowing good transfer of the bass in the trunk to the cabin of the car isn't going to magically get better just because you got bigger subs and more power, you're still going to have a bass stifling vehicle. Is there a solid plate behind the back seats? If not, and the box can fit up in there, remove that insulation board again and turn the box around to face the cabin. Slide it all the way up against the back of the seat and take some towels, rags, or whatever you can find and stuff it in around the box to seal it to the cabin of the car. If you gain some output after that, then you've got some idea of what you need to do. I just don't see the point in spending all that money on new equipment to just have the exact same problem with the new stuff. Eliminate the REAL problem you have and make absolutely sure you're getting all that you can from your current setup before throwing money at things that have nothing to do with the problem at hand.

Donated again after payday.... Plan to do so after each one, hopefully it will help put a fair amount in there.

I agree. Should you ever decide to upgrade things in the future you'll be a step ahead with larger wire already in place. One run of 1/0 isn't that much more expensive than 4awg.

That really doesn't work that well. The impedance of the driver(s) changes with frequency. The amount of wattage the driver(s) actually sees changes due to that fact. If a person was to use a voltmeter and an amp meter to plot the impedance curve they could plot the power applied at several frequencies and get a very accurate reading. However that's a lot of trouble. It's much easier to simply set it by ear. Play some music that you're REALLY familiar with, listen for stress and smell for a hot coil from the driver. I've been doing this for years and have almost always done it by ear.

As said, there's no set calculation for it, although you can roughly estimate it. For example:Say you were planning on using a single 2kw class D sub amp on a sub at 1 ohm. Let's assume the amp is 75% efficient at full power with that 1 ohm load. It would take AT LEAST 25% more power than it's rated to make that 2kw into that 1 ohm load, so 2.5kw input power or 208 amps of current assuming 12 volts of input voltage(2500/12=208.33). None of that math is exact, not anywhere near real world perfect at all, but hopefully it helps give you an idea on how to calculate and get an idea of the kinds of power requirements it might take to run at full tilt. There's a great number of losses and things that affect how much input power an amp is going to need to make output power. Figuring it like that is also off due to the duty cycle or dynamics of the music. Unless you're listening to nothing but Bass Boy CD's or test tones the amplifier will rarely be making that kind of current draw. There's also big debates on how accurate the listed efficiencies of amplifiers really are. I've come to expect to figure 50% for Class AB (highs amps) and about 75% for Class D just to keep it realistically, and often, a good smidge on the overkill side. It's easier to go a little overboard and have more capacity than you really need from the start than it is realize it afterward and have to buy more wire, batteries, etc. and find, build another, or rebuild a place to put it all.

to the forum!

I found the owner's manual on Sony's support site and plugged the T/S into WinISD. It suggested almost 3cuft at 27hz tuning as default, which seems a bit out of sorts. The manual suggests .62cuft sealed and .84cuft ported tuned to about 41hz, which is also not ideal. In my honest opinon, something in the neighborhood of 1.75 to 2cuft or so tuned in the mid-lower 30's would do fairly well. That sub, like many others I've modeled in WinISD tend to only look good with uber large enclosures. I've definitely found that those subs do work better in larger enclosures, but sometimes the WinISD suggestions get outright stupid. I think this one is pretty close though which is why I suggest around 2cuft tuned to 32hz for each sub or 4cuft for both. Also, for $15 each, who the hell cares they're Sony's. For that price, and intentions on using them for just messing around, that's pretty hard to beat and sure as hell not arguable. Nice grab.

to the forum!!

The shipping weight on my D2 XCON 10 is 45lbs. according to the UPS shipping label.

Hmmm... Mabye yours just had a design fluke, I have pushed and pulled on the connectors and wires themselves WAY too much (frusterated HU install ) and have never broken any of em. You know you could just unscrew the end cap and resolder the wire to the connector? Or call up KNU, they'd probably just replace them. I'm also using the Karma SS in the Jimmy with no issues.

to the forum!

to the forum!

LOL.... I have to agree. Out here in the middle of nowhere we have deer running around everywhere. My wife says on many many occasions that the system in her van is the best deer horns we've ever had, lol.

I have love for the Q's. I have a pair of 12's in 4.2cuft tuned to 32hz. What everyone says about the differences between the Q & BL is true and why people who ask should go with the BL is simply because most people who get the Q aren't satisfied with the output and end up getting something that gets louder later on down the road. I'm not talking the next month or anything, but the vast majority do eventually migrate up to something else. I am more than satisfied with the output I get from the Q's. They're louder than anything I've owned before them, and can very well produce more output than I'm willing to listen to on a regular basis. I have different listening tastes than most people do, especially around my area and people I talk to online, and they do exactly what I need them to and more. I've found though, that a lot of people I show them off to are looking for even more output. I get all kinds of comments on how good they sound, how accurate they are and how powerful they feel, but almost every one of those comments follows with a "it could be louder" sort of comment. You're going to love the Q, how good it sounds, how low it goes and how much authority it has doing so, but I'm certain that sometime next year you'll be looking at replacing it with something louder.