altoncustomtech

It's not that it will only cover that range of frequencies, but that each band will be able to adjust the frequency it's set to. The big difference between this and most other EQ's is that any one band (1 thru 5) can be set to any one of the listed frequencies. For example as I was playing around with it I was able to set band 1 to 1.6khz, band 2 to 4khz, band 3 to through, band 4 to 25hz and band 3 to 6.3khz. Not that particular arrangement would be useful, but its just not possible with most any other EQ. Which as mentioned just makes it very versatile. I'm getting real excited to get to trying it out in the Jimmy.

Yeah that would have been sweet. I think it's amazing though how it lets you set any band to any frequency in that range, same with the crossovers. Makes it extremely versatile.

to the forum!!

to the forum! Sounds like a great plan and you're gonna love that DCON, especially in the ported enclosure. What are you doing to do for HU, processing, front stage, amplification, etc.?

Well I've had this thing for a bit now, just now getting to checking it out closely. As you should be able to tell by the pictures the guy who sold it to me was definitely legit. Not ONE of the taped closed bags containing the HU's wires and accessories was opened, the faceplate still has the protective films on it, and the screws that protect the CD mechanism during shipping were still in it. It was most definitely never used and I doubt ever even opened. I'm ordering a wire harness and dash kit just for this HU. The reason I'm doing that is so I can pretty much plug and play it into the Jimmy, then whichever HU I decide to keep in it can plug back in and the other will be ready to plug and play into the Blazer Project when it begins. I hooked it up on the bench to play with some of the settings and such to get an initial feel for it and when the harness adapter and dash kit come in I'll swap it into the Jimmy. So far I've found that any of the five bands of the EQ can be set to a host of a range of frequencies, I'll list them all below. It also has a 3 slot memory function so you can store and recall up to three different sets of EQ, T/A, Crossover settings and recall each at a flash with just a few of button presses which can be real handy for comparison purposes. I gotta say I do like the color cycles and choices, it looks real good doing that. Here's a few pics. Frequencies for the EQ settings are 20, 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 315, 400, 500, 630, 800, 1k, 1.25k, 1.6k, 2k, 2.5k, 3.15k, 4k, 5k, 6.3k, 8k, 10k, 12.5k, 16k, 20k

I personally love seeing budget builds. They're not easy, I know from experience, lol. I think it's definitely coming along though. I've used those Lanzar subs before, albeit years ago, but they can do surprisingly well for their price. They do a pretty good job of playing low. Probably the only thing I can really fault them for is that they're not the toughest subs but at their price point that's going to be an issue no matter what brand or model. It would be kewl to see some installation pics on your components and such as well. Keep up the good work.

That's how it is almost everywhere with almost every shop. Around my area here it's a lot of Planet Audio, Polk Audio, and an array of the cheaper brands. People's choices are only as good as their best educated guess it seems and in most cases that education isn't much more than what the salesman said or because that person knows somebody's buddy who's using that sub or speaker. I've actually had guys demo their setup for me, telling me just how awesome it is as we walk out to it. Just to have a look of bewilderment on their face when I explain in as much detail as I can what I personally didn't like about it when I heard it and what I would've done differently. Then come back two weeks later asking how to make it better. I think they do it because after I attempt to educate them they start to REALLY listen to it and realize that something isn't right. I am still working on learning how to read T/S params and tech specs and know how good that driver really is and what it's optimal use would be. Still learning how placement, axis orientation, and other installation issues affect the given response. Still learning what the good and bad compromises are for different goals. There's such an incredible amount to learn its really almost overwhelming. I would love to learn it all someday though realistically I know I'll only ever scratch the surface. There's a wealth of information available on here and some guys on here with just as impressive backgrounds and knowledge in this hobby/field. Even with all that it still comes down to two things in my opinion. First is the most important thing, that only you know what sounds good to you. Second is that it all comes down to the installation. The cheapest speakers in an ideal installation have the potential to outperform in every way the most expensive speakers in the least ideal installation.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, the DCON is an amazing sub. I bought one for my sister for her birthday/christmas present a couple of years ago. It's in a 2.25cuft ported enclosure tuned to 31hz that fits like a glove in the back of her Durango. It sounds absolutely amazing on everything that I've ever thrown at it and everyone she shows it off to can't believe it's just a single 12. That's an amazing feat for it's modest price. Port that baby and go, you'll love it!

Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I still think the enclosure I designed and showed you in our PM's would work great, just put the port cutout on the rear of the enclosure, buy a schedule 20 (I believe) 90 to turn it in the enclosure, and make the overall port length 2.5" shorter to keep the tuning the same. I know I've not answered anything in the PM's since the 11th, but I figured if you were gonna believe me you were going to have to bring it to the rest of the forum. You were DEAD set on the 2.25cuft volume and size of the dimensions at that point. To answer your last questions adding another inch to the depth would still not be enough to utilize a correctly sized slot port and even if it did it would be a tight fit to get the 8's on the top face of the enclosure with the port walls inside. There could also be loading issues due to how close one or two of the subs would be to the internal port opening. On another note it would only add .5" to the depth to get to the full 2.25cuft you were wanting. Of course if you sell them it's a mute point anyway, but if you decided to keep and use them it should be a fine box. 2.15cuft NET tuned to 32hz with 4" x 12.25" Aero. 28" W x 13" H x 17" D

to the forum!! This is definitely the place to learn.

Glad you like it. Here's the cutsheet. Let me know if there's anything else you need for it.

In that case, take a look at this. It's a no fills enclosure. There's no double baffle on it and I've not drawn in any kind of bracing. There's a little extra internal volume for some 1.5" dowels rods if you want to use them, otherwise it's just a basic box. 34" W x 14" H x 23.25" D and is 3.5cuft NET tuned to 32hz with 56.25sqin of port area. See what you think and if there's any changes that need made we'll get you something finalized once you're happy with it and I'll post up the cutsheets with it.

Same way you already have. Post up the question and see what kinds of answers you get. No one who's posted in the other thread has mentioned anything about orientation for that car. I would guess port and subs forward myself.

I understand, it's no problem. We just need someone to verify the best orientation for the car and I can get it ready for you.

I've got the one I mentioned in your other thread already designed. I just needed confirmation on what orientation is optimal for the car before drawing it up and getting if and the cut sheet posted up for you. You said the measurements I posted would fit, so I think that's all I need.

TMI

I didn't mean to offend on the measurements. It's easy, especially for someone who's new to this, to miss humps, contours, changes in angles, changes in height, width, etc. Hell, I can guarantee you that people who've been doing this for years occasionally do it. I know I did on the first few designs for the amp rack for my Jimmy, which is why it changed design three times before the final one worked. On the last one I spent time taking measurements and cutting cardboard templates to ensure what I measured would fit. Even if your measurements are a little off, there's still PLENTY of room to work with, especially for two 12's. I'm with Rick on their enclosure they have posted up, it's just a bit too small. It's common for big box manufacturers to post up smaller than optimal enclosure sizes so help the uneducated masses feel at ease about the space they'll loose to the enclosure. I'm drawing up a 3.5cuft enclosure, 34" W x 14" H x 23.25" D, tuned to 32hz with a little more than 56sqin of port area (4.5" x 12.5"). That should let the subs breathe much better and have little to no port noise. JL's design would have idiotic amounts of port noise.

Damn, if those measurement are accurate you've got PLENTY of room for two 12's ported. Even if they're not you should have room. I'm not familiar with what orientation works best for these cars, but if we can get a bit more info I'd be glad to help draw you something up.

Just sent my request to join.

Yeah the guy selling it didn't really know what he had. I'll definitely post up my thoughts.

That's kewl, thanks man. I was pretty certain it's not continuously variable, THAT would particularly rare, unusual, and hard to implement I would think. Now I just got to get it, play with it a little on the bench, and see if I want to use it or go ahead and order the 996.

Have a Sundown SAE-1200 for $150+shipping.

to the forum!! There's a lot of great products available out there without having to spend a ton of money, especially with subs. Not sure what your goals are, but rest assured you're in good hands here! There's loads of great information, builds and great used and new items for sale on the forum. Not to mention some of the nicest and most knowledgeable members to be found anywhere.

Well, soon didn't work into the equation, but it's done. The original design includes extra space for some bracing such as 1.25" dowel rods and with panels this wide you should definitely put some in. If you want to do something different like a hidden double baffle, window style bracing, or anything of the like just let me know. You've got enough space to do just about anything you want to. Here's the cutsheet: