altoncustomtech

Okay, a little update. Things are moving along, albeit extremely slowly, but the enclosure is ready for assembly. Plexi has been cut, all the panels are cut, it's ready to be glued and clamped, cutouts made and then finished. I have one picture to upload thus far, where I'm working on getting the plexi cut. You can see the enclosure panels standing on end in the upper right corner of the picture next to the oil drum. Woohoo, I may actually get this done this year, LOL.

How is the enclosure over sized if each chamber is 2.2 and that what the subs call for? how is the port size too small? what should it be? which box calculator progam do you use? I'm looking for someone with bass box pro to put in the measurements provided and screenshot/post the results so i can print it out and show the dude whats the bad thing about the port being slanted the way it is? port noise? I dont have much of an arguement 4 the guy as of yet I cant just go 2 him like it was poorly built I'm not completely convinced the DD's like larger enclosure, but that's beside the point, I was saying that because you said they didn't sound like they could take the power. That's generally indicative of a driver being in an enclosure that's too large. Port noise is the biggest issue with a port that's too small, I see the DD's needing 77sqin for both from stefan's port area calculator. It may not be super shy on port area, but it's still not all they should probably have. The slant reduces port area on one side and raises it on the other. It will affect port noise and tuning on each side. I'm no expert and have never made any claim to be. It still seems to me like this enclosure, poorly built and tuned or not, is wrong for the subs. I would expect the performance to be better than what you're describing.

The separator goes all the way to the back wall? It sure as hell looks as though I can see it's shadow under it in that first picture. I guess it could be a reflection of the light in the resin though. If it is indeed fully seperated you're looking at 2.25cuft NET with 22sqin of port area tuned to ~37hz. If not then it's about 4.5cuft NET tuned to about 36hz (I was indeed thinking backwards on my original tuning thought if they weren't separated) so all in all by the numbers, the enclosure is a bit larger than it should be for the subs with WAY too little port area. The tuning itself isn't completely horrid, but definitely not 33hz. My guess is the guy who built this, aside from having raw enclosure construction skills, just didn't know how to properly calculate and design an enclosure. The enclosure being oversized is most likely why the subs don't seem to handle power worth a damn. Also, you have to remember that all these numbers are best educated guess/calculation. I've run the numbers as you've posted them to do the calculations, but without getting in there and really looking closely at all of it and measuring each and every panel accurately it's hard to be 100% certain on the numbers. Though I feel better than 90% certain on what I've figured.

Also, remember that's AT LEAST 10 to 15 BUSINESS days. Patience OP, they don't forget orders, they don't leave anyone behind, you'll get a custom hand made sub built in the order it was placed when it's done and tested. Relax, you're in good hands. I ordered a pair of 10" passive radiators and it took the better part of 7 weeks to get them due to how they handle the odd stuff like that. It's cool bro, repeat after me, gooz-fra-bah.

That seperator doesn't go all the way back at all, that's a 4" x 12.5" x 18" port that I can guarantee will be tuned considerably higher than the upper 30's. Working on the exact numbers now.

I'm getting only a hair over 2cuft NET volume per chamber with around 38hz tuning and WAY too little port area per sub. Sorry dude, it's looking like whoever you had build this for you had absolutely no idea what they were really doing.

If this is your first time going active starting with a two way is HIGHLY recommended. Some of the information and questions you're asking can be answered in Mike Martel's thread about a new front stage. I've not had the fun of tackling an active front stage yet, but I understand that you're supposed to pick the mid first, then pick the tweeter based on the mid's higher frequency limitations and other such things.

Just on the preliminary rundown I'm highly doubting anything about this enclosure was correctly calculated.

You're not mentioning any internal length, does the port not turn and L in the back? Also, what was the intended internal volume? Why is the port slanted, wider at the bottom than it is at the top?

I used several Hifonics amps, older Brutus, Zeus and Titan series amps on some older builds of mine and a friends. I was never real impressed with them. For someone on a budget that's not overly worried about the best and cleanest signal reproduction and who's not trying to get crazy I think they can do fine. I sold my Zeus (ZXi6006) and Brutus (BXi2006D amps to a co-worker for his son's truck and they're still working just fine. Like I said, for a person on a budget who's not trying to win big in competitions or shooting for the stars they'll be okay. I just know I won't be using any again myself.

Carefully inspect the motors. It's entirely possible that they got abused during shipping and the motors shifted and locked the coils. It's rare, but it has happened before. It would account for the cone's inability to move right out of the box.

Here's a sample. Finished Enclosure pics without subs: (took a little artistic liberty in the colors) Finished enclosure pics with subs, no lines:

Speaking of which, I'm uploading the finished drawings, cutsheet and instructions now.

Just about any of the battle scenes in Battleship will do it, especially the last one with the old battleship. Also the movie "The Haunting" with Liam Neeson. Badass bass in that movie with the house moving and things.

The Q will performs great for all music types. My pair of Q 12's can dig deep and play the low stuff with authority as well as they can reproduce the tightest bass drum beats and bass guitar riffs (right word? I'm no musician.) without a problem. They're very responsive subs that don't have a problem playing all sorts of music. Their response will depend more on the design of the enclosure than it will on anything else.

Four Type R's? That should get some air moving, lol. Even though you got all the room you need to fit whatever you want, it would still be great to have some measurements. If not for any other reason than to ensure it fits snug in it's location and looks like it belongs there. If I designed one that was 75" wide by 10" deep by 30" tall it could technically fit in the van, but it wouldn't fit well, it wouldn't look good, and it wouldn't be real practical to use. With some good measurements, even if it doesn't need the maximum measurement, will help make sure it looks like it belongs in the van at least. I don't think 30hz would be out of the question for tuning. Tuning in the low 30's generally gives a pretty well rounded response and decent output which is why I believe it's about the most common range people tune to. With four subs output shouldn't be much of an issue at all. Making sure the enclosure has enough port area to keep from having port noise, keeping the subs loaded evenly, and other things of that issue are of more concern.

x2 for me. I use firefox if that makes a difference. I use chrome and firefox on my laptop plus chrome and safari on my iPhone, all of which do the same thing. I kind of figure it's like the fatal error problems that occurred directly after the server upgrade and switch, it's just going to take a little time for it all to level out. I know these guys are on the case and it will get smooth again just like before.

The speed of the site is doing great for the most part. The only problem I seem to encounter now is the occasional "page not available"/SQL server issue.

There was a pair of subs on each side of the enclosure behind those custom pink and blue fabric grilles. The person who did that spent a lot of time on it but my thoughts go DIRECTLY to what could have been done with the money spent and the time it took to put it in if it had been concentrated on making it a great sounding setup instead of a master blaster. It's definitely creative, I'll give it that.

Hey Alton thanks a lot for the warm welcome and all the useful information you have just given me. As far as the X series I honestly was going to chose these subs but after research I was finding out that the FI BL series brings a little bit more sq and spl to the table. However this was only by word not by ear so I'm not sure how true this is. On another note the box I have been refering to is basically a prefab fart box but I would deffinelty like to build my first enclosure. I have seen it done and have also helped with one the only problem I have is the enclosure design, dimensions, and specs like you had previously mentioned. I'm just not sure how tuning the box works and how big to cut the wood etc. Other than that I am quite capable of building my own so any other insight you have on this is greatly appreciated. P.S. I was looking to tune as low was 32 hertz if that would sound ok? ALSO A BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HAS RESPONDED HERE NICE TO MEET EVERYONE! I don't know about more SQ but I'm sure the BL's would have more output per watt applied than the X's would, the question to ask yourself is whether or not that difference is worth the price difference. Otherwise, yes 32hz tuning would be great. As for the enclosure, if you can post up the maximum dimensions your enclosure can be to fit and other important information like the orientation of the sub and port (i.e. sub up, port back or sub and port back) and we'll get you a design made up that you can go build.

Why fail? If this looks good to you, I'll finish up the drawings and post up the cutsheet and assembly instructions. 4cuft NET tuned to 32hz with 67.5sqin of port area. 38" W x 15" H x 23.75" D

to the forum and nice intro, lots of information. The BL's are great subs, no doubt, but if you're just wanting to sample the Fi expreience you could save yourself a good bit of money and get something a little more comparable in the X series. They're closer to the Type R power handling and are plenty capable, however even the Type R's can do more for you if you were to build another enclosure and lower the tuning. IMHO 45hz is just too high to listen to music on daily and expect great results. Because of that I don't think a direct swap from the Type R's to ANY of the Fi subs will be all that impressive of a difference. I think before you spend a cent on any other subs you should definitely consider another enclosure. The 2.25cuft volume per is just fine, get that tuning down to 35hz or lower and see what you think of the Type R's in an enclosure like that. Then if you'd still like to try out some Fi subs go for it, and the enclosure will be better suited to them as well. We can help with the enclosure design as well if you need it.

to the forum!