altoncustomtech

I don't see the app being all that handy either. I think there's better options out there for active capabilities, especially from Alpine. I've been using the Clarion CZ702 now for several weeks and I'm enjoying it thoroughly. It's fairly quick to get to the EQ, crossover and DTA settings and offer's a multitude of settings that upon first look seem almost overwhelming. I'm still tweaking and tuning the crap out of it, as much for the enjoyment of learning it as doing it for the improvement in SQ. The adjustments on it happen on the fly, there's no momentary pause to the output like on the Kenwood or Pioneer units I used before when making adjustments which is kinda nice. Plus it's fairly modest price makes it pretty hard to pass up in comparison to most of the others. My only complaint is that it doesn't have 24dB crossover slopes and the amount of time it sits idle in the menus when making adjustments is a bit too short, luckily it only takes a few button presses to get back. Just my .02

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Every manufacturer has their issues, it always has been and always will be the way it is. Allison transmissions are far from shitty and have a VERY long standing record as being some of the best transmissions that can be put in large trucks like semi's, cement mixers, end dumps, etc. My uncle has owned his own sand/gravel/concrete business since 1968 and if he's buying something that has an automatic tranny in it (like a cement truck) he won't even consider it unless it has an Allison in it. Most of the problems people have with the Allison's in the Chevy's are due to how they drive it and getting the performance mods done without having the shift timing adjusted. The transmissions that are in the light trucks are built lighter than they are in the big trucks. They're still very tough, but have inherent weaknesses from the downsizing and as long as they're respected last without many problems. I know a couple of guys who have 2500's making around 800hp set up for sled pulling and quite literally blew up their transmissions on more than one occasion before realizing the stock programming was shifting at the wrong time. Once that was reprogrammed they've been running the same transmissions (albeit with a few internal upgrades) going on the third season this year with nary another issue. Stock just wasn't meant for that kind of increase in HP, nothing stock built is from any manufacturer. I'm not well versed in diesel performance, but I do love watching a well tuned diesel do work. I can imagine that every one of them has issues that if correctly identified and addressed will allow them to perform at peak performance with minimal maintenance. Though it seems like people tend to forget that no matter what it is, once it's been modified to perform more it will require more maintenance, period. It all depends on the kinds of modifications and how extreme they are. Just my .02 and it's not worth 1/100th of that.

Hell yeah, I know I LOVE my circle jigs. Still not sure how I ever did it before I had them, lol.

That's a great way to spend several $$$$ It looks great. I really want to get a Dreadnought and a couple of Minotaurs and a Leviathan myself. Not because I need them for any particular reason, just cuz I want them, lol.

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At this point I would be much more worried about the enclosure than the amp. The sub could be operated on that amp at 2 ohms as long as you watched your gain setting and listened for stress. What do you mean "equipped" with 8 gauge wire? Is there existing wire in the car from a previous owner? Are you not planning to purchase and install your own power and ground wires?

The amp at four ohms is fine and gives room to upgrade later. However that enclosure isn't the direction you should go at all. Aside from being a bit on the small side there's not enough port area nor is there any way of knowing what it's tuned to. It will work but its kind of like putting a $100,000 race engine in a Pinto. Just far from ideal. A custom built enclosure is the only way to go.

If you're coming from a JL 500/1 and a single 12" Arc sub in a sealed enclosure you sure as hell don't need two 15's to get LOUD in comparison. Also as already mentioned a pair of 15's in a trunk isn't going to be easy to build and will likely require the enclosure be built in the trunk. It doesn't sound to me like you have the experience necessary to take on a build of the proportions you're aspiring to and have it come out anywhere near optimal. That being said, I think you would be VERY happy with a pair of 12" Fi X series subs, SSA GCON's or even some Fi SSD's in a properly designed and built ported enclosure on a 1500 watt amp. It will be less expensive for the equipment, will be easier to build and implement, and won't require the sheer support in the electrical department and sound deadening that a 3500 or 5500 watt system would require. It will cost you less money, gain you some experience with doing the building and installation yourself, and still get WAY louder than what you're currently using. That's just my .02

Don't use the CLD to stop rattles, they're for adding mass to a panel to stop resonances. There is a difference even though both have to do with unwanted vibrations, lol. I would adhere to the 25% coverage rule for the CLD and get a good bit of CCF to stop rattles and noises from panels and such vibrating into each other.

If you're going to recommend a cheaper alternative for deadener then at least keep it a real deadener. RaamAudio's RaamMat BXT II is a fairly good product. It specs in fairly well with other good deadeners, does a pretty decent job and can be picked up for a pretty good price along with their UOI peel n stick CCF. I've got a hodge podge of products in my vehicles including the RaamMat and UOI, SecondSkin Damplifier Pro and luxury liner, and very soon some SDS products for my Jimmy (when Don responds to my order email) though I've put some of the CLD and CCF in my co-worker's son's truck. They all work pretty decent but the RaamAudio products are the most budget friendly without going to the "NOT REAL SOUND DEADENER" products like FatMat and Peal n Seal.

That's where all the ones you care about RIGHT NOW are. Once they're quieted the others will be much more noticeable and annoying. It's an ongoing process, lol.

While doing deadening everywhere is ideal, it is budgetarily difficult without doing a little at a time. I agree with Justin and think you should get back there and press on, pull on and mess with things and see if you can find what all rattles. I've gone so far in my van to completely remove a panel to identify the rattle was coming from it. The plastic interior panel on my van's rear lift gate is huge and I couldn't pinpoint a single point of rattling and when I removed the panel it showed me that most of the panel was rattling, lol. Pressing in one or two spots wasn't going to cut it so the whole thing got uber treatment.

Why not port the Dcon first? I agree. That DCON will surprise you in a ported enclosure.

It took right at five full weeks for me to get my Q's when I ordered them awhile back (3 to 4 years ago). It took about three months to get the passive radiators for my XCON build when I ordered them, mainly due to the fact they work on the extra stuff like recones, passives radiators, and other special order items only when they have an opportunity to do so from all the regular orders along with the fact that it seems like the stuff they OEM for other companies takes some kind of precedence over the Fi orders as well. (that is not in any way FACT, just my observational opinion) It's hard to wait, I know that for sure. I've been bassless in my Jimmy since I bought it, though due mostly to my schedule and lack of time to complete the build, but I would rather wait whatever amount of time it takes to get a hand built to order, made in the USA sub than to use whatever is available on any shelf in any store at any time. There's a good reason why everyone who's used Fi, Ascendant Audio and SSA subs will readily keep coming back to them even though they have to wait for them.

That's ten to fifteen BUSINESS days as well which works out to about three weeks build time PLUS time to ship it. All that is dependent on how backed up they are. Have patience, work on the box, clean up the wiring, wax the vehicle, whatever you can find to do to pass the time. It's worth every minute of the wait.

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As good a guy as anyone can possibly buy from. Speedy replies and even speedier shipping. I bought a used 15" DCON from him, paid on Mon. the 15th and it was here on Wed. the 17th. He also said the original packaging was less than spectacular, so he packaged it up real good. Can't beat that at all. Thanks again Sean.

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Happy Birthday!

It's awesome to hear they weren't hurt and are doing work like they're supposed to be!! Everyone makes mistakes from time to time.

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Yeah I went ahead and ordered the Baltic Birch. $75 + tax + $14 surcharge for handling since it's a special order item. It better make MDF look like particle board, that's all I gotta say about it, lol. Yeah I'm out in the middle of nowhere for sure. I'm also pretty sure that when Chop came down to visit and finally found the house he was expecting to see a bunch of barnyard animals and me walking out the door with a straw hat and bib overalls on, LOL.

Scratch that, they don't have the Baltic in stock at that store. They do have a 13 ply regular Birch.