altoncustomtech

I think clipping is the answer. I need to do my research and learn how to setup my gains better. I do feel the sub get a really warm at time. I need to take it out and check the tinsel leads. And make sure its still OK.. also I've noticed my box leaks air around the speaker, might that have something to do with it? Yes, it can have detrimental effects on the sub, the way it performs and the power it can handle. Give us the exact dimensions of the enclosure and the length of the port that's being used and we can verify with better certainty that your enclosure is indeed 1.4cuft and that the port is tuned to 32hz. The XCON's are NOT easy subs to tear up and you're probably trying to get WAY more out of the sub than it can deliver. I have a 10" XCON on an SAZ-1500 and it never gets warm, never smells and should last a very long time. On that Rockford it should last an eternity with only 1kw feeding it so I would imagine it's a combination of things, air leaks, questionable enclosure specifications, and clipping that has lead to the demise of the sub, twice.

Re-replied, lol.

The one with the single slug is either the newer style and is the most likely culprit, or it's an IB3. The motor looks just a bit too big for the IB3 though which is why I'm siding with it being the newer style SSD. You should be able to look through the holes on the frame and see that information on both subs. The good news, and probably your next question, is that the old and new series subs are capable of being used together in the same enclosure. As long as they're both D2 coils you should be golden.

PM sent...

Yep, my brother had one that he never used. Definitely an old style SSD.

to the forum! Nice work for sure...

Anyone interested......

to the forum! I know all about coming from the middle of nowhere. My home town population barely breaks 500, lol.

Hard to say with absolute certainty. I would imagine that as long as it's not covering any vents on the top of the HU, and it's not over the top of the amplifier chip heatsink (typically on the rear of most HU's) then I can't imagine it would be an issue.

You're welcome. I'm really glad to hear all the connections are soldered too. That means they're good and secure and should never give you any problems in the future. Some vehicles just don't hardly leave any room for that kind of stuff. It can sure be a challenge!

No, it's fine on that wire. Again, it doesn't draw enough current to be any sort of issue. You're right the RED wire is the accessory wire and is switched on/off with the key. It's perfectly fine to have both on that circuit. In most vehicles that circuit is protected by a 10 amp fuse. As long as the current on the circuit doesn't exceed that and constantly blow fuses you should be just fine and that stuff just won't pull that much current.

I don't see any problem. None of that stuff, in addition to the HU, has enough draw to overload the circuit if that's what you're worried about. If it was then you'd have blown fuses. There's nothing wrong with cleaning up the wiring, as a matter of fact I'd encourage it. Go ahead and clean stuff up but there's no reason to run any new wires.

In there....

If anyone's interested...

Love those amps and love the HU. Mine's been awesome so far! It definitely makes adjustments a breeze and there's so many adjustments one can make it's almost mind numbing. I could only imagine having something like the miniDSP or the mDSP based units like the PPI DEQ.8, Soundstream Synthesis, or the Zapco DSP 8 to play with and adjust, it'd be nuts. Can't wait to see how it all comes out.

You heard right!! to the forum!

I've read all through the thread and can't see an explanation of WHY you had to have bluetooth for music. I have BT on the Clarion and in my company work truck (factory stereo with Sync) and for calls it's fine but music over the BT just doesn't cut the mustard for me. Seems to me any HU with a USB input would do you far better sound quality wise and with same controls as using the BT offers unless there's some other point I'm missing here. FWIW I'm glad you got yourself a better unit than the Dual. USB, BT, no matter just about anything would have been an improvement over that old HU, lol.

Happy Birthday!

Back in there....

Happy New Year to everyone.

Awesome man, I'm tuned in to see the build and how it scores!

I'm going to be putting 8's in the doors of my Jimmy VERY soon, however you're probably going to have a hard time finding a good 8 that's going to play nicely up to the point a tweeter can take over or a tweeter that can play low enough to keep the 8 out of trouble. You might want to look into doing a full range/dedicated midbass setup. I'm REALLY liking what I'm getting from my testing with such a setup and it's going to take 8's or larger for the midbass to even begin to keep up with that 18. No matter what you do you're going to need something with some processing prowess to get it all to work and play together nicely. So let's start there as Lithium asked, what kind of processing do you have, if any? If none, how much can you put toward some processing? The Clarion CZ702 HU can be picked up for about $150 most places and has enough processing prowess to give even a 3 way setup a go, it's been doing great for me. If you can spend more then there are a number of ways to go, such as the miniDSP. You're also going to need at least 4 channels of amplification for the highs as well to power everything so if you don't already have a pair of 2 channels, or a 4 channel amp you'll have to keep that in mind as well. I'm going to have a few full ranges and an amp or two for sale here before too long and some of that stuff might do you well for where you're trying to go. You're up in Indy, not too horribly far away. I can't drive the Jimmy to you (bad trans at the moment) but if you ever wanted to come down to hear it for yourself you're more than welcome to.

Lowering the internal volume of the enclosure changes the alignment and therefore the response of the enclosure. Coupled with slightly raising the tuning it could help bump up the response near tuning and help some with output. Smaller enclosures tend to be peaky in response, which we don't necessarily want, but just a few tenths of a cu.ft. won't make that big of a difference and will show you with ease whether or not the enclosure alignment is at fault or if they're just not up to snuff. Leaks can be a pain to find if you suspect having them. If you sealed it up real good then I wouldn't worry quite so much about that particular issue yet. The double baffle does make a difference, about .15cu.ft. actually so the NET volume is closer to 2.6cu.ft. but I would still try taking out a little box volume with the 2x4's and see where it gets you. Again it's much cheaper and simpler than a new enclosure or sub(s). If you're looking for more output than the 15" with about the same size enclosure you might look into a pair of 12's. They'll have a bit more cone area than the single 15 and all things being equal have the potential to give just a tad more output.

In there if anyone's interested...

I looked at the numbers a little closer. Assuming 3/4" construction and no bracing the internal volume is more like 2.75cu.ft. NET and the tuning is pretty much right at 32hz. If you want to know if the enclosure is causing a problem cut four pieces of 2x4 about 21" long, screw them together, wrap them with a little cloth so they don't make any noise from rattling inside the enclosure and place them inside somewhere out of the way of the port. That will lower the internal volume down to 2.5cu.ft. NET and the tuning will only raise to about 34hz. That will be a quick, cheap and easy way to see if the enclosure design itself is causing you an issue. If it sounds more like what you're looking for then you can play around with more 2x4 or build another enclosure. If it doesn't get you any closer to what you're looking for then you'll likely be needing to look into a pair of twelve's or going back to a 15 to get the output you're looking for, if the issue is indeed just the output.