altoncustomtech

I can't say that I listen to a lot of electronic type music either, but there are certain songs that speak to me like many others from genres of music I don't normally get into. Regardless of whether or not you actually get into the song the thing will rock your world as far as it's ability to get a sub moving. If nothing else I'm sure you'll love it for showing off the output capabilities of the sub and it's ability to keep up with the craziest note shifts.

As you should be. You know, you should get and play the song 8-BIT Superhero by Excision. It's one of the most insane songs to play and will quickly become one of the best for showing off exactly what that thing can do both on it's output capabilities and it's quality of reproduction.

I think the Q is just that fantastic of a sub, but I might be a little biased, LOL. You did a beautiful job on the enclosure.

Hey, that's mine....... LOL In there for whoever may be interested.....

Bazooka used to have a water cooling system for subs and amps years ago. It never took off, or got popular but it did work. Seems like I remember someone telling me about a pole piece design that implemented channels for Freon to run though connected to a compressor to really cool the motor down and the voice coil as directly as possible but it's just too costly and complicated to be practical. They were able to design it, build it and test it but it was just not practical. I think the same person was telling me something about liquid nitrogen as well but it's been WAY too long for me to remember details. As Q said, convection cooling and such is about the only practical way to do more to cool the structure.

As a matter of fact they'll be needing to replace people at multiple locations coming up this and the next few years. We've got lots of guys that have been here over 30 years that will be retiring soon.

Damn straight it is, lol. You're probably right on the Industrial look, it's all around me everyday. You're all welcome for the pics. It's always neat to see new things and stuff like this most people don't even know exists.

Yes sir, that is correct. Or, at least, the broken one was, lol.

They're integral natural gas compressors. The engine has compressor cylinders that are mounted to the engine block and the connecting rods for the compressors share journals on the crankshaft with the power cylinders.

Got more pictures for you all. These pictures here are of an old Allison Turbine engine and compressor at one of the other locations. The engine is rated for 4,000HP and it just does have an automatic control system on it. These pictures are some rarely seen. Just earlier this week we had a unit at another location have a major failure on a connecting rod on one of the power cylinders. It's a 2,000HP rated Ingersoll KVT engine, V-12, turbocharged and I believe I have some pictures earlier in the thread of the same engine with all the compressor pistons, valves, rods, etc. removed and a shot or two in the crank case. The following pictures are only the first I've gotten of what happens in one of these when a rod lets go. There's been MAJOR damage done to the frame (block) but I've yet to receive those pictures. Suffice to say it's a major problem but they can stitch it all back together and getting running!

No kiddin. We've not gotten the snow down on my end as bad as north of me but we're seeing our share of plenty of low temps. They've forecasted -1 for tomorrow night. YAY US!!

LOL, that's funny. Yeah, it's hard to understand just what the scale is on some things until you have something practical to compare it to. Kinda like the engines at work, the bore of the cylinder and the piston inside the engine is only about 1" smaller than the nominal diameter of your subwoofer.

In ze chat...

In the interest in trying to do as Sean (///M5) had told me I needed to do in my ON/OFF Axis thread I've been playing around with everything. I've been going through crossover and EQ settings on the components in the van, I've spent time playing with the components in the Jimmy (I can't drive it, may as well work on the audio, right?), and I've also been slowly buying up some other stuff to play with. I bought the Dayton RS180-4 mids from Ricksi, I bought a pair of Aura NS3 3", a pair of Fountek FE85 3", and a pair of FaitalPRO 3FE25 3" full rangers all for the sake of trying to train my ear and learn what problems and anomalies can and are occurring in the hunt to get the sound I'm looking for. I have to say that aside from an awful lack of midbass the components in the van are pretty much what I'm looking for. Even running passive they don't have any issues with breakup, overbearing on any particular frequency and aside from the loudness setting turned on on the HU the EQ is dead flat. They're actually fairly impressive speakers for the money I paid and the fact they've lasted as long as they have taking the beating they have I've more than gotten my money's worth out of them. Even with the loudness off the only real problem I hear is the midrange being a little more in my face than I prefer to hear, of course that makes sense being that the loudness setting boosts a little on the bass and treble ends of the spectrum thus quieting the midrange down some. I can't find any real benefit doing anything else with the EQ besides that. I've had to come to grips with the fact that the less than stellar job I did installing the baffles for the components is the most likely culprit for their lack of midbass. There's not enough breathing room around the large motor's on them to allow them to work right. Without doing some careful work I'll have the same problem with the woofers in the Bravox CS603CF's when/if I ever get around to putting them in. Aside from that I think the limited number of people who've heard the van would agree the highs are as clear and even sounding as anyone could ask for with fairly good stage and imaging. All that amounts to is that I got really lucky with it and that luck didn't follow me into the Jimmy. Well, that's enough of that mess. The point of the thread is to share my opinions on as I make my journey through testing and playing with all this stuff. Hopefully those thoughts and opinions and discussion on the topic can help others as well. I'm going to start by setting up the current components in the Jimmy in an active setup. I'm going to get the Solid 2 installed and wired up to the tweeters and set the crossovers on the Clarion accordingly to see what kind of difference that makes with the set. A little preliminary testing (mids hooked up without passives) shows that it may be a promising move. Once all possible scenarios with that set have been exhausted I'll be testing with every combination of speakers and settings. Another thing Sean said was to never buy a set of speakers and expect it to be the last ones a person buys. I'm slowly getting an arsenal of drivers amassed so as to figure out what combination of what configuration I like best and I figure the more options I have, well the longer it will take (this is fun stuff!!) and the more I can learn from and grow from the experience. Here's the full rangers. I already had in my possession some Tang Band 3" full range speakers from a Logitech Z-560 (580, 680, something like that, the 400+ watt 4.1 set) computer speaker set that blew the amp out many years ago. I'm using the enclosures from them for all four sets to do the testing with so I don't have to build any. The size and configuration isn't perfect for all of them but at least it lets me test them in an enclosure of some kind. I have to say from initial testing the Faital's are leading the pack. They're super smooth and seem to extend way farther up in frequency than the others though the low end sounds kinda hollow. I assume that's from the super flat impedance curve that's published for them. Second is the Fountek's as they seem to have the most realistic sound, but they don't sparkle on the high end much and the low end is pretty hollow sounding as well. Third in line is the Aura's with a surprisingly rich lower end but they have a very tame sounding midrange and high end. They don't sound bad, but they're not quite out there and realistic as the other two. I still have to get the solder off the terminals on the TB's before I can make any sort of comparison with the others. I listened to them for years and thought they were great but who knows what kinds of built in EQing, crossovers, etc. Logitech had built into the amp for them and it's been years since I've heard them so I don't think it's even remotely possible to comment on them from memory and in that context. Here's a couple of pics just for fun. The Fountek's in the enclosures with the Aura's and Faital's sitting next to them. I just had them hooked up to a cheap little Lepai amp that I had lying around connected to my iPhone. It's not great, but it works. I plugged the ports on those little enclosure's to attempt to make the playing field just a tad more level. I'll get a little more industrious about it when I can get a bit more serious about the testing. I did have them the same height, angles, etc. on axis while testing as well.

That's going to be my only easy option at this point, and I'm not sure how EASY that's going to be with that damned window guide 2" behind the sheet metal centered directly behind where everything lines up with the factory mounting location. Any farther rearward and the window itself is a problem, almost no room to move it forward. It appears as though anything I want to do is going to require a custom fiberglass build. As it is I'm fairly certain I would have to angle the SLS to get it in there.

Here's a link to the specs for that TB 8. Tang Band W8-1363SB

It's treated paper though. I mean I wouldn't soak it or anything but you should be fine to wipe it down with a damp cloth. An Armorall wipe would do good too and worked fine for my Q's.

LOL, and hey, you even learned the formula for calculating the resistance of a parallel circuit.

Okay, I was remembering how the door was built/looked on the inside much differently than it is, lol. I've got a damned window guide rail right behind the center of where the drivers mount so now I've got to go back to the drawing board on what I'm going to do as far as mounting 8's is concerned let alone fitting any sort of enclosure. For a smaller diameter magnet that would or could help it fit in next to the window guide would the Tang Band W8-1363SB 8" sub be a worthy choice? For what it's worth I think the SLS will be okay IB but my ideas have definitely been thwarted.

I think I got him covered. He was trying to calculate what his final nominal impedance would be with a few different calculators, the final one giving him an answer of 1.7 with a 2 ohm and 12 ohm parallel circuit. He didn't think the 1.7 ohms was correct. He was also getting the wrong answer from the calculators he was using on how much power the higher ohm load and lower ohm load would receive in the circuit to which I think I finally got that straightened out, I think. So, I think that he's all good now. At least it would seem so.

In thar...

They're not actually as I misread the question. What you calculated was the power in the circuit with the voltage drop across the resistance which will show a higher power but to do it right it needs to be calculated with current. At least I think I'm describing that correctly.

The forumla for different resistances in parallel is 1/(1/R1+1/R2+1/R3) Where each R is the resistance of each resistor in the circuit and the forumla can be scaled up or down from just two resistances to as many as a person would care to try to calculate for. 1/( 1/(2ohms) + 1/(12ohms)) = 1/( .5 + .083) = 1/.583 = 1.7 ohms

Yes, that's about right on the value, 1.7 ohms would be correct and yes the speakers wired in series with the higher ohm loads will not see the same power the 2 ohm speaker will. Basic electricity and ohms law.

Happy Birthday Brother!