altoncustomtech

Damn, that's the problem with doing something in a hurry. In the pictures it shows the first port wall dimension as 17 3/4" long, the cut sheet shows 18 1/2". The cut sheet is correct. When I was grabbing the lines with the dimension tool I didn't get all the way to the end of the port wall. Keep that in mind when you go to cut everything out.

So, here's the enclosure. It's 4.25 cu.ft. NET tuned to 30hz with a simple "L" shaped slot port. I'm using a nearly identical design (different dimensions obviously) in my van with a pair of Fi Q 12's and have been for about four years with no issues at all. PM me your email address and I can send you the Sketchup file for the enclosure for you to play with, reverse engineer from, etc. to get acquainted with the design and how it all fits together. Here's the cutsheet. This is what it could look like completely finished.

Just hold on, I'm throwing together something quick and simple. Nothing elaborate, nothing fancy, a simple slot port enclosure that will be 4.25 cu.ft. NET tuned to 30hz. Keeping it simple will keep it easy to cut out, easy to build, and will be plenty good for a first timer.

While I do agree that using Torres will help you play with the numbers a little, it could still be a little overwhelming if you've never designed/built an enclosure before. Why is it that you're specifically looking for 5.2 cu.ft. NET? Are you sure you mean NET and not GROSS? While that amount of space per sub for a twelve isn't outlandish or even outside of manufacturer specs it's going to make for quite a large enclosure once the port and it's volume is added to it and you sure can't use the entire 30" of depth as the port has to have room to breathe between the enclosure and the tailgate.

Whoa buddy, take it easy. There's plenty of people here who can help but we need more information. For starters the maximum dimensions you're planning/willing to give up for the enclosure would be nice. I have a two door '01 Jimmy myself but I'm pretty sure the four doors have a little less space in the rear than my two door does.

Ran across this on the eBay and thought it looked like a great buy, especially for someone looking for a simple all in one solution for an active setup. The Zapco I5100 is a seven channel amp that is rated for 50wrms x 4, 25wrms x 2 and 400wrms x 1 all @ 4 ohms. By bridging the 4 channel section you get a rated 175wrms x 2 plus the 25wrms x 2 and the 400wrms x 1 and the sub section is rated 600wrms x 1 @ 2 ohms. In my mind the 2 x 175 would be great for a mid, the 2 x 25 would be great for tweeters and the sub section great for many subs on the market. It seems like a fantastic solution to simplifying an active setup as far as the amplification is concerned and at $270 it seems to be priced great as well. Here's the link to the listing - Zapco I5100 $270 Just tossing this up for discussion and comments. I'm sure since it's the Zapco I series amp it's not the same quality as their reference and competition series but I can't see it being a bad one either.

It's old school. Back in the day that's how most amps were. Awesome, that must really be old school. I've had a few older amps over the years, probably very early 90's to late 80's at the oldest and had never seen it. As Brendan asked though, what the hell do you do when you bridge the channels? Match the voltage on them stereo so you know they're equal when bridged? That's the only solution I could think of. Zapco hasn't responded back to the email I sent them yet.

I responded to your PM.

No idea actually. The book is pretty well devoid of any very useful information. I'm going to email Zapco on that very subject and a few questions on the switches for the crossovers.

If nobody else will I can, but it sounded to me like Enrique (Bassink) is on the case.

Got the Zapco and holy crap is it a monster. Shipping weight said it was 22lbs but I swear it feels more like 30lbs, lol. Again, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it but it was too good a deal to pass up. I found one other store still selling it online and they had it priced for $600 so the $270 I paid shipped is a steal IMO. Here's just a few pics for the fun of it. One VERY interesting thing I found out about the amp is that all 7 channels have their own separate gain knob. Is that not odd, or at least different from the norm?

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. I understand what you are saying....but this is exactly why i tend to set up my systems where they are very unlikely to get overdriven. I just don't see the need unless you are competing. Admittedly i am just getting into this level of output, but I have always ran subs that had a bit more rating than the power I am feeding them, and have yet to blow an amp- or cook a woofer(except for the IA I just had reconed...and I was over powering it). But it seems self evident when you are feeding a 600w sub almost 1000w and it starts coming apart what the problem is.LOL It doesn't have to have anything to do with competing, actually almost completely the opposite. I edited in a link to that post that Brad wrote up on the subject. It details a great explanation on why headroom is a very good thing to help things sound so much better than they can when running rated or below rated power on a speaker.

I haven't done any math at all, but just from previous experience and a little guessing there's no way the enclosure you posted is tuned to 33hz. I would also question if the port would act properly being farther from the rear of the enclosure than it's width but not enough to not completely rule out it's interaction. It's equivalent to having a 4" wide port on the side of an enclosure instead of the center that ended 5" from the back wall. The port will still try to act as though that bend at the back corner was part of the length but it wouldn't be the exact same as being added to the port length because it's wider where it opens into the enclosure. Even if the questionable port length didn't cause an issue I'd be very surprised if the tuning is even close to 33hz AND even if it is I agree with the others on building one custom to your application. You're in good hands with it and seemed to have provided the right information I just wanted to provide you with better details as why not to bother using the design you found.

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. EDIT: This link "Amplifier Headroom" is a terrific write up on the subject, what it really means and what it can do for you.

to the forum!

^^^This exactly. Give us some history on the setups you've had in the past. For all we know "loud" to you is a pair of 12" Pyle Red Labels in a cheap prefab bandpass enclosure in which case we would know that you have no idea what "loud" is. Or perhaps your last setup consisted of four Sundown SA-15's in a wall with 3500 watts on tap in which case you should definitely have an idea of what "loud" really is. That and everyone has a personal preference as well. While I enjoy listening and playing with big hair moving setups I find the two 12" Q's in my van to be more than adequately loud for me and we rarely have the remote level control above 1/3 of the way up. Your preference may be more like the hair moving, vision skewing, teeth rattling, breath inhibiting type of loud or at least that may be your goal. Clear definitions of what you want and what your trying to do would be most helpful. As was mentioned by stephen if you REALLY want to go as high as 5500 watts $1100 will hardly even cover a new 5500 watt amp let alone all the electrical upgrades that are required to make it operate without shutdown and output issues from voltage drop at best, going up in smoke at worst. Systems this large and powerful take a great deal of planning and support over just buying a bunch of equipment and throwing it in together.

Looks like a very nice enclosure! Should do that BL very well when you get it.

I would imagine they'll take care of this real quick. You can tell from the pictures the coil is sitting in the right place and the spiders are flat and level, same as the good one on the right, however there's a lot more space between the cone and the spiders and the tinsel's are tight. Almost like someone who had no idea or business putting it together came in and glued the cone onto the top of the coil and pulled the tinsels tight and attached them. I can't imagine how this one made it through the quality control checks at all. Very rare.

The sub has to be assembled first. Once the slug is magnetized there's no way to build the motor. As far as the basket and soft parts are concerned, if there's room for the motor to fit in the machine with those parts attached I can't imagine how it would make a difference with them being attached. Seems like I remember Nick saying they're completely built when they get magnetized because if they magnetized them at any point before they're built they'd have major issues with metal shavings and such getting all over them.

Yes, the most likely culprit is not having the SSF set properly. You can't compare this experience to one you had with a completely different setup, you just can't. There are too many variables, too many differences that play a part in what may or may not happen with one setup over another.

mine will not paste here period.It will up top in the browser but not in the reply box That's just weird.

I just went through every setting on my photobucket account to try to find a reason for the difference and I couldn't find anything.

I have NO idea. It used to work with no problems, then sometime last year it choked. If I don't remove the ~original from the code the forum comes back and tells me the picture format is not allowed, go figure.

It's not mattered what I use, but I primarily use my laptop.

Beautiful glass work! Yeah Aaron, I'm a big fan of the rotary engines. Don't own an RX tho... This is one of my favorite rotary engine videos tho..... 1664 HP 4 rotor engine Sorry to threadjack brother....