altoncustomtech

It's not that you CAN'T use it at all, it's that it gets misused by 99% of the people out there so it's just easier to tell people NOT to use it. If the bass isn't loud enough it's because of a limitation in the installation. Either it wasn't done right, wasn't done big enough in the first place to give the output the person is looking for, or it's a combination of both. Bass Boost is nothing more than an old marketing gimmick to make a quick fix for people that had anemic bass response. It's also, as a result, helped companies sell tons more equipment because of it's misuse and subsequent destruction of the equipment it was being used on.

ok first off tbe price doesnt match the quality.. the n3 slammed on burps but nothing else.. but thats what it was designed for so no complaints from it really... the team fi... supposed to be some kind of god send.. not so much.. it was loud but sounded like shit while doing so.. reminded me so much of a orion hcca I bout puked.. im sure fi isna decent product but im just not buyin it I've only used the lower tier's of subs (X, SSD, Q) but none of them disappointed in the least. It's hard to believe the Team sub would inherently sound bad. I don't see any company that would want to remain in business do that on purpose. It just makes me curious about the installation and setup.

Absolutely. The BIGGEST reason I did it in the Jimmy, with only 10's mind you, was because I like doing things that are different, I had never tried that type of setup before, and let's face it having the bragging rights of using the first and so far only XCON PR's is kinda kewl. LOL In all seriousness I couldn't even imagine trying to do it with 18's in a vehicle. The 10" PR's that match the XCON's perfectly cost me $90 each. If I hadn't had the extra money and worked hard to learn to fully understood the pros and cons of using such a setup I wouldn't have even thought about it.

to the forum Jamie!

Your BTL is an 18, correct? For the best performance you'll need with a PR larger than it or a pair of 18" PR's. A PR setup won't save a tremendous amount of space over a standard ported enclosure. It does make it a little smaller though and has a few other advantages such as the easy to change tuning and better transient response. It's not exactly the same but it's kinda like the best if both worlds between sealed and ported.

Yes. To expect the same response (or even similar) to that of a standard ported enclosure the size needs to be the same. What are you looking at doing that's going to use PR's?

Yep, still got all the associated files on my laptop too.

It only has a single 1/0 input for the power inputs so I'm a little skeptical on it's ability to produce a true 10kw. On the note of making some cash on a bargain I see prices on them in the $1k range so that's how I would weigh the decision if I were you.

Of course it's going to be power hungry, it's a 10kw amp and you have to supply the power to output the power. Even if we're generous and say it's 85% efficient at 1 ohm and can really and truly output 10kw it's still going to require about a thousand amps of current to make that power output, lol. Price on it seems fair, other than that I have no experience with it either. For that matter I've barely got any experience with anything large than the 2K's I own/have owned.

Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday to you, You look like a monkey, And you smell like one too! J/K brother, hope you have a good one!

I'm glad the enclosure is working out so well for you!! It's one that I wonder out often because of the love I have for the DCON's! I'll make it easier to see the pics too.

LMAO, it's coming. Lost my interwebz service in the storm that's going through, gave up on it and switched to my cell now. lol

PM Sent.

It's for whether or not you need a basket or not. Say you were reconing it to a 12", you'd need a basket too as it's got the 18" basket on it. If you're reconing it as an 18" again you don't need a basket so chose "no".

They're dual 4 ohm subs, no way to get a single sub to a 1 ohm load on the amp.

Technically speaking yes, and yes it does. Build the enclosure I posted up and try them out on the one amp for now, you never know they may very well surprise you.

Yes, by wiring them together and using the one channel. It's basic electrical knowledge taught in classes world wide. I could link you 100 sites that have information on that very subject. 1200 watts would be applied to the circuit as a whole (i.e. both subs) but each one would only see half of it.

The amp maybe 1200 @ 1 ohm but it cannot give BOTH subs 1200 watts each. In any given circuit the power is distributed through all loads in the circuit and when the resistance of those loads is the same the power in the circuit will be divided evenly by the number of loads. 1200w / 2 = 600w per driver. No amount of wiring changes can negate this.

If you can fit these dimensions SSA has a pre-designed enclosure for the sub HERE. If those dimensions won't fit then we can help you with a custom box to fit your vehicle.

As I mentioned before, here are the pictures of basically what it could look like when you have it all done.

Alright, here's a bunch of dimensions on the bracing plus some exploded views of the basic way its assembled in the enclosure and such. Also, be sure to give me your email address and I can send the sketchup drawings themselves to you. With them you can spin it around, dissect sections and things like that to get a better understanding of how the assembly goes. Here's the dimensions on the frame brace. The long one goes the width of the subwoofer box part of the enclosure. The two shorter pieces are centered up along it's length on each side. You'll need to cut out two of the long parts and four of the short ones. Here's the dimensions on the window brace. All of the parts of the brace are 1" wide and as mentioned before if the hole in the center isn't large enough to fit the magnet then you can make it larger without any problems. You'll need to cut out two of these, just flip one over for the other side. Here are the dimensions for the double baffle supports. They simply stand up lined up with the supports for the circle cutout in the center of the window brace up against the walls of the enclosure. You'll need to cut out eight of these, four for each side. Here are some exploded views of how the bracing is assembled with dimensions. Let me know if you need any more detailed information on the bracing.

I thought I'd share the design I threw together for Antoine's pair of 15" Orion HCCA's. So, it's almost completely done. I have a little more work to do on the cut out information for the bracing and to finish the drawing. Which, BTW, what were your intentions for finishing the enclosure? Carpet, paint, bed liner? What colors? I can make the final drawing make a great representation of the final product if you would like me to. The design should land the tuning right in the 30hz neighborhood with a little over 4 cu.ft. NET volume per sub measuring 48" W x 30" D x 20" H. Orion's manual and information for the sub is a little light so there's not a lot of good information to go on from their documentation. I made the hole in the window brace for the magnet on the sub 12" in diameter. If that's not large enough there's more than enough space there to open that hole up. The frame bracing underneath the window brace is also sized the same way so it would have to be modified to match the hole in the window brace. Same with the depth of the sub. Most of the numbers I could find on the sub showed it having just under 12" of depth. There should be PLENTY of space between the sub and the frame braces under the sub/window brace to clear but again, if there's not then just adjust it accordingly. That's the one real problem with not having the sub's I'm designing for in my hands, I can't verify for myself what all the dimensions/measurements are. Here's all the captures of the build of the enclosure including a cutsheet (minus the upcoming bracing of course). As soon as I know if you want to see it completely finished as you're intending to do so I'll get those and the bracing cuts to you asap. I can email you the sketchup models as well so you can pull them apart to see the design and how all the parts go together as well. Just let me know what your email addy is. Onto the good stuff!! Just let me know if there's any part of the design I need to go deeper into or explain.

I would have picked it up the very second I saw the thread if I had a use for a sub that size. It's just physically too large for anything I have. FREE BUMP... lol

Your answer here...???

^^^ Exactly. Impedance and "reactive" resistance is basically the same thing. Regular resistance, like a resistor in a circuit, doesn't change with a given frequency, voltage, current, etc. Any coil wound resistor/resistance has an impedance that changes with the AC frequency that goes through it. DC current sees a constant resistance value though and is typically lower than AC impedance. As Julian mentioned the impedance value that is listed is basically like an average for a given range of frequencies. 1.4 ohms would be about 2 ohms nominal impedance. You are measuring that resistance with the subs disconnected from the amp, correct? Three dual 2 ohm subs could be wired to .33 ohms (all parallel), 1.33 ohms (series coils/parallel subs), 3 ohms (parallel coils/series subs), and 12 ohms (all series). Can be viewed here.