altoncustomtech

You can't compare the volume position from one song to the next. Every song has it's own recording level and is rarely the same as another. Possibly if they were all recorded on the same album the tech at the board referenced them all to the same level as they were mastered but I wouldn't count on that either. Even if they were the same recording level every song has it's own range of dynamics which can make them sound like they're recorded at different levels. Best thing to do is just as you're practicing now, when you hear something getting stressed just turn it back down a notch or two.

Happy Birthday!!

I don't think stuffing the box with polyfil, or anything else regarding the current setup will be useful. You're simply asking more than it's capable of giving. Even subs that could handle more power or are better suited to a sealed alignment would not net enough gain to make the cost worthwhile. Changing the enclosure out for a ported should yield a noticeable difference in output but you're looking at a larger enclosure that you may not have the room for or may not be willing to give the room up for. The only other way you could possibly get louder is with larger or more subs but again you're going to run into having to have more space available for the subs. Either way you've got a tough decision. For my own curiosity, when you say "custom mustang vert box" are you saying that it's a custom box for a convertible Mustang? If so, then that's the other major problem to overcome. Convertibles are notoriously difficult to get loud due to the way the trunk and cabin are separated for the convertible mechanics and the rag top eating up so much output in itself.

1.4 ohms dc resistance per coil would be D2 coil configured subs. If you indeed have all the coils and the two subs wired in parallel you only have a .5 ohm nominal load on your amp and that would be the reason for your problems. If they were D1 coil subs that would be a .25 ohm nominal load and I doubt the amp would even begin to run with it. Specs from Fi's website. DUAL 1 | DUAL 2 Fs: 30.1 Hz | 30.1 Hz Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil You need to be sure they're wired for a 2 ohm nominal load, wired like below.

Don't keep them separated and tune to two difference frequencies, it won't help any at all, seriously. 12" for a 4" diameter port and 32hz tuning is about right. However, have you calculated the subwoofer and port displacements into your figures?

To each his own on brands BUT the big point is that using just one brand for EVERYTHING just isn't the best idea. Every company has inherent strengths and weaknesses in the variety of products they sell and because of that there can be shortcomings in the overall performance when using everything from just one brand. When choosing individual drivers for building from scratch you should be picking them because they truly fit the application. For that matter, that should be the focal point when picking just about anything. There's nothing wrong with brand loyalty but it shouldn't rule the entire process.

Technically speaking it would be doable but why on earth can't you find a 4" driver to use? Parts Express, Madisound, and many other places sell bunches of great options for a 4" midrange for use in a 3 way setup.

Yep, two dual 1 ohm subs are what you need. Reference picture below.

Honestly 12 gauge will be just fine.

Doing some quick math shows me the enclosure is around 7.1 cu.ft. NET with a dismal port opening (only 42.5 sq.in. of port area). The port area isn't even equivalent to a pair of 6" round ports. However after subwoofer displacments the BL's would be running in around 6.7 cu.ft. with a port tuning in the 29hz area. So technically speaking, yes the enclosure should be alright to run the BL's in until you get another enclosure built for them. Remember though that when you increase the port area on the new enclosure that port length will have to be much longer as well to keep the tuning the same, or nearly the same. That means that a lot more internal volume is going to be used up by the port and the enclosure will have to get a bit larger to keep the volume where it needs to be.

So what do you suggest for speaker set up if not to go with a 8" and 3" drivers? What Sean was saying was that if you wanted to try the dedicated midbass and full range setup that the 80PRS wouldn't do what you need it to for processing. I was a little surprised to hear that myself at first but when I got to thinking about it the crossovers are limited to 1.25khz for the high pass of the highs (tweeter) and lowpass of the mid. The Clarion isn't quite as limited but the lowest it can cross for the mid same purpose is 630hz. I'm using the LP crossover on the amp powering the midbasses to get it down to the <300hz range they need to be at to cross with the full ranges properly. So technically speaking I suppose he's right the HU's themselves aren't ideal for the dedicated midbass/full range setup but the Clarion can do it as long as the amp for the midbasses has a LP crossover. The 80PRS is a great HU for going active with a mid and a tweeter though but that would be it's limit. Here's the frequencies both of the HU's can be set to in their crossovers. The Pioneer 80PRS The Clarion CZ702

LOL, following the rules agreed to when joining is all it takes but seriously most generally the only time anyone really gets upset about it is when one person makes post after post asking simple® questions that could easily be found with a quick search. No one will ever say anything if someone actual does some searching, a little research, and asks a question when they still can't find the answer they're looking for. It's easy enough to tell the difference between those kinds of questions too. Everyone here doesn't having a problem helping out but as many of us have done ourselves we all expect people to learn and grow on their own as well. Guidance, not hand holding, lol.

Boredom...

I think it's a great choice for a first active system and the price can't be beat either. Last time I checked one could be picked up at SonicElectronix for $150 with free shipping and installation gear. Yep, sound advice.

After reading through the manual for the 997 it's not got powerful enough crossovers for truly going active. The EQ, DTA, and basic crossover controls it has aren't bad at all but there's not enough capability in the crossovers.

Another thing to keep in mind is that a 3 way setup is so many times harder to properly setup and tune than a 2 way. If you're wanting killer midbass and great highs I would highly suggest trying a good 8" midbass like the Peerless SLS 8 coupled with a great 3" full range like the Fountek FR88. As long as you put the full ranges pointing directly on axis you won't likely need a tweeter at all making it a much easier to work with and learn 2 way. The processing you have available is much more important than the drivers you're planning on using though. I have a Clarion CZ702 running a pair of Fountek FE85 full ranges, using the 6.5" mids from my Bravox CS60K components as the dedicated midbasses (for now, I have the Peerless SLS 8's and Fountek FR89EX's waiting to be installed) and the sound from that simple little setup is beyond stellar. The stage is wider and more open than I could ever imagine, the detail and clarity are so good I've heard more subtle nuances and things than I've ever heard on any of my previous setups, and the midbass (even from these 6.5's) is felt just as much as it's heard. I think it's a great way to go for a simpler, budget friendly active setup that can really give that midbass punch. As Justin stated, knowing your budget, power and processing plans will make a big difference on what we can do to help.

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You won't be able to hear a difference between 1200 and 1500 watts in the first place. Also if you're only going to use 1200 watts go with the largest enclosure you can fit in the vehicle. A larger enclosure will be more efficient than more power anyway. Go with every bit of 2.5 cu.ft. NET per sub tuned in the 30hz region and you'll be golden.

Bored?

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Awesome. Not a lot of PR builds out there. Using it in this build?

I think these pictures here will help to show that you don't need to tear into the framework around the trunk opening behind the back seats to make a solid structure or place to mount. Of course all these pictures show the subs with the magnets firing forward instead of the cone, but how they're building a baffle and structure that seals up around the trunk opening and moves the sub back away from the seats a little bit is the point I'm trying to show. Here's the link to that big IB build log again. Here's the pictures I was speaking of.

I got lucky enough to not have to modify the metal at all. The car had large plastic standoffs/baffles that the factory 6x9's mounted into. The holes in the deck were already fairly large because they were the same size as those baffle things. HERE'S a link to that little build log. Mind you the cheapo 6.5" Hifonics components were from when I first got the car and had to do something to fix everything that wasn't working and those were something I had on hand at the time. But I think you can get a basic idea of the work I did on it which really was all fairly minimal compared to what could/should be done for a proper IB install. You should also be able to see the size the holes are in the rear deck. I think I get what you're saying, but the framework of the car around that trunk opening is what you need to seal and reinforce. Did I link you to that big IB install build log? If not I'll get you the link for some healthy ideas on what you need to do. Not necessarily EXACTLY like he did, but some facsimile thereof. I have seen several done like it was an enclosure that just for lack of a better explanation simply didn't have a back on it. I'll see if I can find some reference pictures.

I'm certain it will absolutely be fine, there's no such thing as under powering a driver. The real question is whether or not it will give you all the output you want from it. That you won't know until you hear it. I can say that I have just a pair of cheap Dayton 8" drivers in the rear deck of my Olds running IB with 100 watts to each one and the output I get from them is quite satisfactory and more than I expected from them. Considering the IB315 has CONSIDERABLY more cone area and you'll have twice as much power going to it I believe you'll be very happy with it. But that's just my .02

Sorry, no, not with one sub. 2 ohms is 2 ohms. Now if it were a dual 2 ohm the coils on the sub could be wired in parallel for a final 1 ohm load, or if you had two 2 ohm subs.