altoncustomtech

Use the calculator to calculate what the tuning would be with the different length scenarios you're talking about. You're not really going to hear any difference if the tuning is off one hertz or so. I mean, unless it's a competition box that you're trying to nail the tuning to one exact frequency to match cabin gain or something to get every single dB out of it you can it's not going to hurt anything to be just a tad off. Ears aren't going to be able to tell the difference between a 31hz tune and a 30hz tune, especially at high output levels. As long as it's close just go with it. It's also possible, especially if space allows, to plan the enclosure a little on the large side with slightly lower than desired tuning, then just add bracing and/or filler blocks to get the desired airspace/tuning. FWIW

I think what the OP is getting at is that his port runs right up to the back of the enclosure. At the current length he's long when measured down the center of the port, including the bend the air has to make at the back of the enclosure which is part of the path. I think what his problem is that if he reduces the port length an inch to theoretically take bring it from the back and take the bend out of the equation that he's coming up too short. Is that close to the issue?

Happy Birthday Aaron!

You can't get anywhere near the potential of the amplifiers (unless they are small in power). Once the current capability is exceeded the voltage will drop drastically. Whether or not it would hurt anything depends on a lot of factors, but if it's only for testing and such it shouldn't be an issue.

Great minds think alike? lol Got the boys Wolfenstein to play, installing it now. Hopefully I can keep up with them on that one too, but that's a typical weekend for us. Next time we go playing on the fourwheeler I'll grab some pictures of where we ride at around here. As Porkchop can attest to, we live out in the middle of nowhere. It's a short ride in any direction to a place to ride, including quite a few acres of family property right behind the house. There's a river about a ten minute ride away with lots of places to ride in the river bottoms all along it. There's also a couple of state riding areas a short haul from here as well so there's plenty if riding to be had around here.

Thank you again guys. Have had a decent day so far. Beat the kids on CoD Black Ops II Zombies this morning, took a hell of a good ride around the area on the fourwheeler with my wife, and now I'm grillin' out some steaks for my birthday dinner. All in all a good one.

Thanks for all the birthday wishes brothers.

LOL, close, 1997 actually. There's no such thing as too old, Alma Gates proved that. Hell no, no one around here knows of SQ/AQ, Fi, Sundown, SSA, DSS, AA, or any other great and reputable brand that everyone else in the country knows about but these backwater rednecks, lol. I'd love to check out your HDC sometime. I got to hear one a few years ago at the VU car show and it wasn't bad at all. Maybe I can show you what the Q's can do as well.

Vincennes?!! Awesome! I'm from Monroe City and Vinny, even graduated from LHS about a lifetime ago. It's great to finally get a REAL local member on here!

My only experience was with one that had one of the capacitors break off. I bought it from the guy that happened to, repaired it and sold it to Porkchop. Dunno if he's still using it or not but it seemed like a solid amp. On a side note, where are you at in southern Indiana?

I can say that I'm interested in that 2 channel, but don't have the funds to spare for it at the moment.

WOW!!??!!?? Had NO idea that was going on. Sure hope there's not any other surprises. Was really wanting and figuring it to be a great deal on the car with little to no real work needing done to it to do what you wanted to with it.

to the forum!

That would be exactly what running "active" is. You'll need either a HU or an external DSP to do it properly though. For something that can do not just the crossover capabilities that you need but also time alignment and other processing the Pioneer 80PRS and the Clarion CZ702 are great places to start and learn with. I personally love the Clarion (am currently using one in my Jimmy) for several reasons but the main reason is because it can be picked up for $150 or less. The next step up would be something like the MiniDSP or the MiniDSP based units such as the Soundstream Synthesis, the PPI DEQ.8, or the Zapco DSP Z8. They're all a fair bit more costly than the HU options but in the long run offer so much more control abilities and options than any HU currently on the market can offer. As for the speaker adapter, you're going to have to hone your fabrication skills. Exactly what you're describing you want to do to your doors is exactly what I did in my Jimmy. I have a link to the build log for it in my signature if you're wanting to take the time to look at how I did mine. You're right, the factory grill definitely hurts response and the space between the door panel and the speaker is also not helping. Short term solution would be to take some foam and cut a couple of rings to go around the speaker and seal it's path directly to the factory opening in the door panel. That would eliminate the problems in response from the sound being able to wonder around behind the panel at will until you were able to complete a new set of baffles through the door panel. I'm glad to see you're opening yourself up to the advice that's been given. When I first joined a few years ago I was in the same boat as you. The more I learned the more I realized I didn't know nearly as much as I thought/wished I did, lol. It's hard to let go of the knowledge that we think we know is gospel and accept that everything (or most of it) we've known and taught and have been taught over the years is inaccurate or completely false. I too also always ran rears to get that "full and enveloped" sound. After a little time on here and some testing and a little reworking I've come to realize (as you likely will) that rears do nothing but hurt the overall response. EDIT: Added some stuff since my first response was typed on my mobile and I hate typing much on there. Also, the best information (and some of the best products) you can find on the web about sound deadening can be found at SoundDeadenerShowdown.com

Wow...... Boy Chop, if there's anything I can do to help.

I'm almost never on Facebook tho and with the folks I do have friended on there it's REALLY time consuming to try to go back through more than a few days in the feed. I'm gonna hit up your page and see what info I can dig up.

The 3205 is an extremely common transistor. The older versions were rated for 98A of current capacity, the newer versions are good up to 110A. If the part number were a IRF3205Z, IRF3205PBF, IRF3205L, IRF3205STR, etc. then it would be a different animal but the NTE2991 should be a perfect match for what got shot. The other numbers have to do with product batches and the sort and like you mentioned are pretty much useless for identification in most cases.

If the part # is only IRF3205 without any letters behind it then THIS is all you need.

I must really be behind the times, did something happen to the Olds?

That was a good video, but she's not very intelligent is she. The "OMG, What you got back there?" Question followed by, "I wanna see that trunk!" Had me rolling my eyes. There's something wrong with that woman if she couldn't tell those subs were right behind her head, lol.

I ordered a couple!

to the forum! I agree with Kylar96, as long as you're happy, we're happy! I found a pair of Ohm speakers, 8" 2-ways, at a Goodwill near me and picked them up for $10 for the pair. The foam surround had rotted off and I rebuilt/replaced them with a foam repair kit from Parts Express. I will have to say those Ohm speakers are some of the most natural sounding I had ever had the pleasure of listening to. I found out they were built in/around the late 70's and sold for around $500 new at that time. A little constructive criticism here if you're interested. In the interest of quality music reproduction, I would imagine the EQ would better serve the overall outcome on the front speakers with the rears disconnected. With all those speakers playing at one time (without major EQ and time alignment work) it's screwing with the sound stage and imaging. As good as I'm sure that is with your in house setup I would imagine you'd like to get similar response from the car. While it's certainly doable it will definitely take a bit more time and money to achieve, the results of which however would probably make a person like yourself much much happier in the long run.

Awesome. I liked the FB page and subscribed at the website. (which consequently stopped loading correctly afterward on laptop and mobile, odd isn't it.)

I gotta agree. Not that I have a lot of room to talk with a set of Bravox CS603CF's in the closet, but the price was good and even Brad said they're fairly decent. But I do still agree with the comment, he likely won't know any different and there's no sense in letting him waste something to the tune $800 for a less than stellar set of speakers in the first place. These is cheap - PPI 3 Way components

LOL, hopefully it's back on the road by then!! I'm really hoping the mechanic can get it in the first of this week, if he doesn't then I'll probably not be able to get it to Slam this year, yet again.