altoncustomtech

You're going to hear it both ways no matter what forum you're on. Of course, common sense tells us all that a fuse is a safety device and should be used in these instances. However, I agree that if the length and routing doesn't seem as though it's easy to do or wouldn't really require it then I don't see a problem not using one. Like Evan said, when the wire would run the length of the car a fuse would be a really good idea. Or, like in the instance of my Jimmy as seen in the picture below, the wire was only 14" long and is on top of everything. Putting a fuse in would be a major PITA and there's not really any danger of the wire becoming damaged and shorting out so I didn't put one in. It's best for every person to weigh the pros and cons and decide for themselves as like most of this hobby, every persons vehicle, application and tastes differs from the next. Just realized I never got a pic of the positive wire run from the alt to the battery, but you can see it's not a long distance nor is there anything in between to cause any sort of problem with the wire itself.

Well it is made of plastic. Probably kinda light. Never implied it was good for that, just can't argue that value. I don't use paperweights. Well it is made of plastic. Probably kinda light. Perhaps a wrestling prop where someone can slam it down and watch it shatter in a thousand pieces would be most useful. I bet we could measure the sound of it slapping the floor at 40hz then I have many other things that I'd rather measure with my Acoustic Camera...however, if someone donates one for the smash perhaps you could convince me differently. I would almost blow $150 on a new one just to watch a video of you doing it. I got an idea, lets take up donations from everyone who's willing to pay to see it!!

Just wondering if anyone knows him personally, or at least may know why he's not been on the forum since April (according to his profile)?

It's alright. I didn't believe you had any intention of doing it on purpose, but I kinda thought that after this long there wasn't much point in pursuing it anymore. But then I figured I'd give it one last shot for the hell of it. Thanks for following up on it.

Nah, hell with it. Been over a year at this point, I'm just gonna say screw it and write it off.

Yeah I know, some good guys aren't on much anymore. I'm looking for Rick because we have a transaction that's not yet been completed.

Glad to help. BTW, where are you at in Illinois? I'm just East of Lawrenceville in Indiana.

Okay, actually got some measurable work done on the Traverse today. When I last posted I had test fit the installation of the bracket for the sail panel on the passenger side, the only side I had removed the factory sail panel from at that point. When I tightened the bracket up I popped one of the welds loose on the upper bolt part of the bracket. I took them both back to work, realizing I didn't get good penetration on the weld and made sure they were welded together much better. I also made a little room to clear a washer on another screw that 's in the same area. I put the passenger one back in today and verified the welding would hold this time and I had SUCCESS!! So I took the panel off the drivers side door so I could remove the factory sail panel and had success with that one as well. The entire process didn't take as long as I had first planned so I was left standing there contemplating what to do with the rest of the time I had to work on it this morning and then it dawned on me. I still have a lot of work that needs done to get the speakers installed but one of the things that needs done to facilitate the installation of the speakers is the installation of the sound deadening. So I set to work and pulled all the necessary supplies out to the truck. As you can see I went about doing it a little differently than the guru suggests. Instead of using velcro to attach the layers of CCF and MLV to the door and then attach the panel I attached the CCF and MLV to the panel itself. It seemed easier to me to put it on there and have it come off with the panel every time than it did to take the panel off then remove the deadening. The process seemed successful enough as the deadening stayed on the panel quite well when I was done and installed back on the door with about the same pain in the ass amount of trouble it has even without the deadening on it. I haven't had any time at all to listen to it and see what kind of difference it made on this side since the wife took off in the vehicle as soon as I had the drivers side completed. So, I still have the deadening to do on the passenger door and hopefully I'll get my new table saw picked up real soon and I'll be able to knock out the rest of the build fairly quick. (I hope) So, on to a few pics. Here's the bracket installed on the drivers door. Here's the door before any of the CLD tiles were installed. Here's a shot of the factory deadener. There was still a tremendous amount of panel resonance even with that big piece on there. It goes from that point almost all the way to the front of the door. It took these three pieces added to this end of the panel to make a noticeable difference. On this end of the door the only area that was bad was down low just right behind and below the speaker location. Here's the CCF and MLV rolled out on the ground to begin working with it. Here's the back side of the door panel before anything is applied. Here's the first layer of CCF rough cut to the panel. There were several more things to trim around. Here's the MLV rough cut to the panel. I'm not sure what happened to the rest of the pictures. I lost the pics of the final trimming and 2nd layer of CCF as well. Damn touch screens, that's what I get for not locking the screen each time, lol. Anyway, after putting the panel with all that deadening back on I found a few more small places that could use a little extra trimming but other than that it seems pretty well completed. I'm still trying to locate some small accordion boots to get the speaker wires from the cabin to the inside of the doors. Chevy didn't leave any unused pins/slots/spots (whatever you want to call them) in the connector that is used on this vehicle so I'm left having to run it in addition. If I can't find an accordion boot to use I'm going to simply use some rubber grommets and the Knukonceptz Karma SS bi-wire speaker wire to complete the speaker wire run. Otherwise now I just need my table saw to get the sail panel baffles completed and it should also help facilitate the building of the baffles for the woofers as well as the false floor amp rack and subwoofer enclosure as well.

His point was behind his simple one word question, "Why?" Why would you want to change from a perfectly good working amp to another amp that doesn't have any real benefit to do so? What, if any, difference in power there is between the two will not be audible and barely even measurable. Because of that fact, and especially for daily systems that aren't being used to chase numbers in competition, it rarely ever makes any sense to change up amps with no other real benefit to be had from doing so. I would also not be the least bit interested in using an amp that posts it's power ratings derived from some "oscilloscope" method and that damn SMD AD-1.

Considering they're rated for 600wrms the Q1-1200D would be the amp I would look at in your situation. In order to get a 1 ohm load for the 1200wrms output from the amp you'll need to order Dual 4 ohm subs and wire them like the diagram below. It's about impossible for us to give you the box measurements. Unless someone who's on the forum reading this has used the exact same subs and amp in the exact same vehicle there's just no way. The odds of that happening are pretty slim. The SoundQubed website shows from 2.5cuft to 5cuft of NET enclosure space as being usable for their 12" subs. What we need from you is the maximum dimensions you're willing to give up to the subwoofer enclosure in your vehicle. Then we can help you figure out how much space you have available and can help you get an enclosure figured out. This is how the subs should be wired when you're ready to hook things up.

I sent U a PM.

Even though I didn't purchase it with a clear and concise goal for it in mind I'm glad I got mine purchased before sales closed. I'm glad everything is taking off for you on this venture Quentin. It seems from our conversations on the subject the realization of a dream and I hope everything continues to move forward in a consistent manner. I look forward to having conversations with people about your products and being able to say, "Yeah, and I met him in person. I'm the one who sold him the DSS demo vehicle!" lol In all seriousness though, I'm looking forward to receiving the Ethos and showing it off every opportunity I get. My plans right now are simply to build it an enclosure that will have it perform well in any of the vehicles I have so that I can demo it to folks and on different power levels too.

DSS does have a layaway option. Just need the minimum down payment to start.

Check them out at Direct Sound Solutions website, then do a search on here and look at the DSS section in the manufacturers sections. http://www.directsoundsolutions.com/ Look for Sencheezy's YouTube channel for starters, then at the others and their build logs on here.

I second the Ethos recommendation, but don't wait, if you pre-order now you can get it a little cheaper AND DSS has a layaway option.

Wow, graveyards are livelier than this place is right now....

Yep, that's one example of an amp with only gain controls. There's not many amps out there that are like that either. $2600??? I've seen some of the measurements on the Tru amps, and yeah they're nice amps, but I don't see how they're worth anywhere near that kind of money.

If anyone is on and interested in talking...

????? I know I didn't win, but it would still be nice to know who did....

Awesome, Senchez. I can't wait to finally get a demo of this thing one of these days.

If you have not used them yet, I suggest being very gentle with them. I broke one and I wasn't even using much force to clamp it down. A press fit washer popped right off, I was able to get it back together and use it though. I have the same kinds of clamps as well. You really don't need to crank them down super hard for them to do their job.

Awesome! I love the DCON!! Here's my Sister's 1st Generation 12" DCON in her 2002 Durango. Here also, is the pair of 10" 2nd Generation DCON's I just picked up for my wife's 2010 Traverse build. And for giggles, the 1st Generation 15" DCON I picked up used as well to have more DCON goodness but ended up selling to a local guy who never got me a pic of his install. Hope that helps the campaign Aaron!!

Are you looking for only 2nd Gen DCON pics?

Great progress so far brother The outside looks 1,000,000 times better too!

It depends on whether it's a remote gain or bast boost knob. If it's a bass boost then definitely forget it, but if it's a remote gain knob then it does have a very useful function. If it's a remote gain you'll want to turn it all the way up and then set the gain on the amp like 1two3 explained. Listen for clipping/distortion then back it off a hair. Then you can use the remote gain knob to turn the sub down to blend better with the rest of your speakers but when you want to bump hard or show off you can turn the bass knob up to get more output without having to worry as much about clipping the sub. Trust us, there's no need for any meters or scopes and DEFINITELY no use for a DD-1. Your ears are the best tuning tool. What kind of enclosure are you putting the sub in? If you're putting it in a ported enclosure I'll need to cover how to set the SSF (Sub-Sonic Filter) as well.