altoncustomtech

PM sent. Consider it sold.

Thanks, I hope so... I just couldn't pass up the prices....

I picked up antoinez28's pair of Crescendo BC2000's. One is for the aforementioned friend's Sundown SA-15. The other one I'll either eventually find a project for or I'll sell it. Monday I won an auction on an Audison SR2. Wanted to try it out and see what Audison amps can offer. Today I won an auction on an Image Dynamics Q700.2, again to see what it can do. antoinez28's BC2000's The Audison SR2 The Image Dynamics Q700.2

Just in case anyone is as bored as I am...

Yeah I didn't figure it's work out for you to see it beforehand... Damn luck...

Sure there's the SQ Q1-3500. There's also the Sundown SAZ-4500 and SCV-4000, the Crescendo BC-3500, and the Ampere Audio AA-3800.1 as a few alternatives that would be worth considering. BTW, the Jimmy is home from work, lol.

Sweet! I think my trunk is a little bigger than my last and its not a hatchback. Do you think the same measurements will sound just as good? From what I'm seeing it was 37" x 17.5" x 17.5" tuned to 32hz with 56sqin of port area. As long as it would fit it should be fine. Like I said, if you need it redesigned to fit the new car just let me know.

Isn't CT Sounds owned by that "CTHEDINGER" guy? I remember lots of questions about the validity of the ratings on his products and I'm not talking just the amps. IMHO its hard for me to believe that the majority of the amps on the market, especially the big Multi-Kilowatt well over 1,500/2,000 watt ones, can actually produce the specified ratings without being deep into clipping/distortion. It just doesn't seem like there's enough to them to me. Of course I also remember the good 'ol days when 1K amps were the size of surfboards.

I hate to say it and I know it's harsh, but I don't care if the website says 10,000 @ 12.8. They can rate it anything they want to, that doesn't mean it's going to actually do it.

I'm going to get my jaw jacked for mentioning it, but I've been using a Soundstream Harmony for a couple months now and I love it. It's not as out and out powerful in options as the mDSP or any of the ones on the market that are based on it, but it does what I need just fine and I think it's great for ACTIVE setup beginners to learn on.

I don't think you have enough electrical backbone. That amp would probably have to have a solid 14+ volts to get anywhere near the 4k rating. Of course that's just a guess.

Don't get so hung up on the numbers. There's really no audible difference between the 1,100wrms @ 2 ohms of the SQ Q1-2200 and the 1400-1500 watts you're hoping to get from the Hifonics. More power is the LEAST efficient way to increase output. As Tirefryr mentioned, there's got to be plenty of amps that will do the power you need for the budget you've set, however, you might be able to find something really great to run it with USED for that price or less.

to the forum!!

Swift, Sencheezy, Porkchop and other associated Team IAK members are about the closest forum members. In Senchez's case I'm not sure he'd be able to make the time to come up this far or risk his equipment for a show that won't earn him any points. It's a long way to go and a small crowd just to demo for no matter who it is. If you were the only one to show up I'll be more than happy since I really am not expecting anyone to show up. I'm going to try to get another couple of shows put together for next year and hopefully the notion that an SPL meter will be available will draw some extra folks in. Then perhaps in time we can get the event(s) sanctioned with one of the organizations. The people who are interested in this stuff are around here, it's just getting them to realize there's more to it than waking the neighbors up after midnight with their systems bumping.

to the forum!

Welcome back! I still have that design too, lol. If you need another just let me know. BTW, I agree with Sean's recommendations.

Yes sir, that is the correct city and zip code. Would be great to see you there!!

To the best of my knowledge there's not one offered by Fi and none that I know of exist that would fit it from anywhere else. Sorry to see that though, those subs are so damn beautiful.

That was definitely funny and it's funny when people talk shit about things they have no idea about. For instance, a few weeks ago I took the kids to see Guardians of the Galaxy. After we watched the movie we headed to Wally World to grab a couple of things. We were in the van and having a little fun listening to some Five Finger Death Punch as we pulled into the parking spot next to where some guy and his girl were standing next to their car. When I got out of the van he goes, "Wow, hope everyone can still hear." and I told him yeah it does okay. Then he asked what was in it so I just showed him. I open the rear hatch of the van and he looks at it for a moment and goes, "Oh, yeah I had some of these." Which really got my attention and I asked him about owning Fi to which he answers, " Well no, not that exact brand. I got them from Wal-Mart and I blew them pretty quick but they were okay while they worked." I proceeded to inform the moron that Fi subs are custom built in Vegas and that you can't buy anything like them from a store let alone some bullshit store like Wally World and decided I wasn't about to give the idiot a demo. He was obviously too stupid to understand, lol.

Just keep the Hifonics amp and this is coming from someone who's not a big fan of Hifonics. The amp isn't any worse than some many of other Chinese built amps on the market and definitely better than some hundreds of others. As Justin said, they're not known for their quality. If you could afford an upgrade sometime in the future then it probably wouldn't hurt but otherwise there's not going to be any problem running the BL on it. I say run with it and be happy, but that's just my .02

Those doors are like the ones on my van. As its been mentioned, remove the plastic panel. You'll need to lower the window first as the window track and everything associated with it will come out with the panel. Treat the sheet metal as previously described then put the window frame back on the door. At this point you've done about all you can do. I didn't have any luck with CLD tiles sticking to the plastic frame in the van, maybe you'll have more luck than I did. As Sean mentioned it's time for CCF and MLV at this point. On a side note, I was successfully able to remove the factory baffle from the frame and bolt on an MDF baffle but it wasn't easy. Good luck with it man.

Congrats guys!

If you can work through getting the connection made you should get it back. I was able to get the factory rear camera in my Traverse to work on the HU without any issues, but the connector that was supplied only allows for it to display on the HU or the rear view mirror one at a time, not at the same time. I'm going to make an edit to some wires and fix it so both work in the future, it's not as important as the other stuff to get completed.

Now that's a graciously generous person! Three Cheers to Erik!!

You should also purchase a voltmeter to put on the amp terminals themselves to watch voltage drop at the amp. If you're only getting a little dimming I wouldn't think that you're stressing the electrical of your vehicle so bad that you're running any risk at hurting anything. It doesn't take a very large change in voltage to affect light output from standard incandescent bulbs. When my Jimmy had stock electrical just turning on the turn signals at idle would make the headlights dim just enough to be noticeable, along with seeing a "tick" in the voltage on the dash volt meter. The voltage wasn't dropping much, but it didn't need to just to see it in the headlights. I agree, do the big three, install a volt meter to monitor voltage at the amps and see what you have. If you see your voltage at the amps consistently below 13v then some sort of upgrade might be advisable. If not, and with the power you're running, a little dimming in the headlights isn't anything to worry about at all.