altoncustomtech

That's one thing I like about the wikiarms site, at least you can see the prices and stock status in as close to real time as it can get.

Now that's what I call a hook up... Nice!

I found a website, www.wikiarms.com that has been really handy finding BOTH ammo in stock and at as low of prices as I've seen anywhere. But I haven't seen .22LR anywhere for that ~3 cents a round you just found that ammo you mentioned buying today. Damn that's cheap.

That'll help make her happy about all the ammo! I'm starting down the same road myself. Already have an old break-over barrel style 20 gauge shotgun and like 1,000 shells and I just bought a Colt M4 .22LR (for $300 new) and almost 2,200 rounds of ammo for it.

to the forum! I'll try to get the PM you sent me answered this evening. Busy making dinner at the moment.

Happy Birthday Brother!!

WOW! You wouldn't find that printed anywhere these days.

I'd love to go sit in the chat room and wait for someone to talk to but unfortunately it doesn't appear to be working....

I agree, it doesn't make a great deal of sense. I'm guessing here that you have a dual two ohm subwoofer, and that they tried to instruct you in some fashion to use one amp per voice coil. Which in and of itself is easy enough so I'm having a hard time understanding why there would be a reason to over-complicate things. In that scenario there would be no need to strap the amps, as a matter of fact strapping the amps and then connecting each one alone to one of the voice coils would not work. When the amps are designed to work in a push-pull type of relationship when strapped, nothing would work right without them working together. Not to mention the fact that little to nothing would be gained having the amps on each of the 2 ohm voice coils versus the sub coils wired in parallel to a single amp at 1 ohm final load. If your sub is a Dual one ohm coil configuration then wire the coils in series for a two ohm final load then strap the amps together according to the manual and hook the sub up with the positive going to the MASTER amp and the negative going to the SLAVE amp. Not sure what else to help explain without some much needed details.

As a person currently using a 10" XCON on 1500 watts I will second Sean's recommendation on the 10" ported. Unless you're simply used to the abusive output of a pair of 15's or something similar I don't think the 10" XCON will disappoint. I get all the output I want from mine with the PR's which isn't as efficient in output as a standard ported enclosure (better than sealed though). I've been tempted to go ahead and build a standard ported enclosure for it to play with but I'm not real keen on having to remove and reinstall the screws in the sub since I went through a great deal of trouble to ensure I had a perfect seal on the PR enclosure. Anywho, my recommendation and vote would be for one of the 10's ported and my recommendation would also sway more toward the XCON. I think Aaron's quote in my signature on the difference between the ICON and XCON subs speaks volumes.

In those dimensions there is 22.91cuft gross space to work with. That would be 5.727cuft per sub before you figured for sub, bracing and port displacements. That's going to be really damn tight for most 18's on the market but the 18 DSS Ethos as you were asking about. Unfortunately as Quentin has already mentioned right now they're all sold out until the next run that would/should/could be available in March.

You didn't mention what version of Windows you need. I can send you a copy of XP, Vista or Win7. Just let me know which one you need. As Julian mentioned, you'll need to activate Windows (whichever version it is) by typing in the Product Key off the sticker that SHOULD still be on the bottom of the laptop. Personally, I would install Ubuntu, or Kubuntu (I like the KDE package better than the GNOME package myself) along with Windows on the same HDD. That way you have an operating system you can use that is practically completely virus/spyware/malware proof. Use it for the more questionable stuff ( ) (LOL) and the Windows install for all the stuff you can't do with a Linux OS.

I really like the more modest installs myself. Sure the big builds are wild and awesome but most just aren't practical for everyone's daily drivers nor their budgets. I love seeing what people do with builds just about anyone could afford and install. The XCON is no joke though. Super fantastic performing and sounding sub. I know what my single 10 does so I can only imagine what that 15 is capable of. Keep it up man!

to the forum!

to the forum! Nice grab on the sub too!

I have to agree with M5 on the CDT's. Though I've only played with two sets and neither were much more expensive than the D1720's (retail prices), I've heard lots better for the same or less money. The only ID's I've played with are the CTX's and they are on par with everything else in their price range IMO. To the OP, once you get them on an amp be sure to play around with them some more. Switch the polarity on one tweeter, then on the other tweeter, then both at the same time. Do the same thing to the mids as well. Placement in the vehicle and the interaction between the drivers can sometimes cause issues in the response you hear. Switching the phasing up might help you find and break some destructive interaction between the different drivers. You would also be surprised that many times harsh ear bleeding highs are caused be response problems in the mids rather than the tweeters. As Sencheezy mentioned on frequencies to adjust on your EQ, don't just concentrate on the higher frequencies, play around in some of the mid (1.5k to 5k) frequencies as well. If the mid is causing the harshness you'll find it in those frequencies. I've installed and played with several sets of these speakers. There's rarely a set in this price range that doesn't have at least one weakness that through either installation or adjustment can be dealt with. To me these typically have fewer issues to either deal with or compromise with than others I've installed. Before switching up to going active with a full range/dedicated midbass setup in my Jimmy I was about to replace my Bravox components with this same set. The Bravox mids would seem as though they were going to rip your ears off your head on certain songs. I found that the response issue with them simply could not be adjusted out on the EQ, nor could any amount of phase switching or even running them active helped. Well, I could adjust it out on the EQ but then it hurt any chances of actually using them for music it was so bad. Get them some real power, get the installation right and I am fairly certain they'll come alive for you. It has been a few years since I've installed any and I suppose there's a possibility they've changed something for the worse but I would be surprised if they did.

Happy Birthday buddy! Just wait until you hit 35...

I couldn't live 6 days without at least checking in here... wow. LOL

It sounds to me like it was already shorted, hence the ground wire getting hot enough to melt. The last time you connected it and it smoked finally blew out whatever was causing the short. In other words, it's already toast. You're gonna have to pull it out and send it in for repair.

to the forum!!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY SEAN!!!

Let's try this again.... lol

Don is as good as it gets when it comes to sound deadening. He's probably one of if not the most knowledgeable people on the subject. His products and business practices are also about as good as it can get. That's just my opinion though.

Maybe the PCM is the entire issue. My 2010 Traverse actually shuts the alternator completely off and only has it on when it's absolutely necessary. Perhaps the Chrysler is doing something similar and the reason you see it go so high is because you turned up the voltage when the alt wasn't on trying to compensate. Then when it turns back on it way overshoots the setpoint you wanted it at. Just a thought.

Really any decent amp will be great for them. The two Sean listed are great options and there's always eBay too. I recently picked up an Audison SR2 for $61, an Image Dynamics Q700.2 for $86, and a Diamond Audio D600.1 for $46 that were a little below the norm on price but are great amps. Deals like those are on there if you have the patience to look and wait for them. Not just on eBay but the classifieds on here and the sister sites. If you only want new the Barbara Ann would be at the top of my list.